Changing the 6.2

[custodian]

I have an 85 C10 with the 6.2, it wasn't running when I got it. I don't want to throw a bunch of money at this motor to find it it will not run. Now my question, I found a running military 6.2 with low miles on it. Will everything work, any major differences?

 

[MrMarty51]

I know nothing about the interchangeability of components but, I think this is going to be an interesting thread.

 

[red]

The military 6.2 has a 24 volt starter and the brackets to mount 2 alternators/no ac compressor. The military engine has no EGR system which the 1/2 ton does have.

 

[Will L.]

Before buying parts, bring up what’s going on because there are ripoff places to avoid and parts that depending how long you plan to keep it may be worth buying top tier that could be swapped to a new engine if the one you have bites the dust.

 

[custodian]

The motor in my C10 turned over, but I didn't try to crank it. I was either going to put another 6.2 in or change it to a gas engine. I found several running 6.2's in my area. The military 6.2 supposed to have around 34K on it, the other 6.2 around 70K. Found one that was supposed to need only the IP to run.Just trying to make a good decision on engine choice. I build SBC's, just never dealt with diesels. I've already started to take apart my motor, and have stopped when I got it to long block form. I intend to take the glow plugs out and inspect them.

 

[MrMarty51]

Was, or is, there a known problem with the current engine ?

 

[custodian]

Previous owner bought the truck for body parts and never did anything with it. He didn't know if anything was wrong with the engine. This truck sat for many many years, long enough for the tires to rot off. I would like to just drop another running 6.2 in it, or I'll just rebuild what I have. I've built a many of SBC, but never a diesel. This truck came from the factory as a diesel, found just about all the original paperwork in the glove box.

 

[Will L.]

I would start with a simple oil change service with air filter. Then try to get it running. Things like batteries, cables, glow plugs, radiator hoses, fan clutch, etc that you put into this engine could come out and go to a rebuild if it is needed.

You might have a wonderful condition 6.2 there that many search long and hard for. If it runs ok and you decide you want to spend the $ to rebuild just so you know everything is perfect that is a choice for later. Understand the sbc is the lowest cost to rebuild or replace there is. You’ll get some sticker shock rebuilding a diesel.

Great find!

 

[custodian]

Good place to buy parts?

 

[Will L.]

Depends what you are after.
For instance glow plugs. ONLY use AC Delco 60 G. And because of warranty issues, I will only buy them from now on in a major local store like Pepboys, Oriellys, etc. if a plug fails it can ruin an engine, and it has to be an authorized distributor to get the warranty. Individual sellers may choose whether or not to warranty the part. But if you buy plugs from online sellers- good luck getting them to cover issues. Because plug failure is a hard argument.

check with the vendors listed on top of this page they sell tons of stuff and have descent reputations. TwistedSteelPerformance, Leroydiesel, Rockauto, Quadstar.
There are some things they are hands down the best place to get stuff for price and service along with stuff not available at normal parts stores. (do like to support the vendors that pay to keep the forum online and free for us, so some of us will pay a bit more buying from them than if we could save a few bucks locally)

Being an older engine/ truck, ebay comes into play- asking here first can save headaches from ripoffs.


If you find something you think is a good deal, bring it up here. We can warn you against places as they pop up like ss dieselsupply- total ripoff. Or places like predator- quality stuff for the most part but highest price on the planet and some stuff sold as if the best but is not. Things to avoid like “+40HP injectors” from most suppliers.

other things like a starter- absolutely best starter is the power master 9052. Idk if any vendor here sells it yet, but although a 1 year warranty, they last longest and crank engine the fastest. I am on hummer forum and got those guys to start using them on 6.2/6.5 and dozens are way happy, few of them really beat it up underwater, under mud, deep snow etc. and they are outlasting the waterproof military starters hands down.

there is a list of things to look at to make sure you dont blow the engine, but first see what you have to work with and figure $ so we can help which is best investments first.

 

[MrMarty51]

And, the members in this forum will never steer You wrong. Except for maybe Me, but, I always advertise in a subject that I know nothing of what I am talking about so proceed with caution. LOLOLOL

 

[custodian]

I've started looking at rebuild kits, and WOW, the price of just the kits, not counting on other parts that would be needed. I'd like to find a good one to just drop in.

 

[Will L.]

Thats why i say try getting this one going. Most the rebuild kits have extras you don’t need most of the time. Never buy anything until ya know it’s needed.
If you started messin with it and not sure what to do, just holler.

There is a supposed running 6.2 with waterpump off it for $500. I dont know the guy, just shared incase Someone is looking.

Running 6.2. Also th400 and a transfer case from same guy

If you guys are signed up on hummer network forum he said discount for members there. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/d/tempe-62l-diesel-engine-hummer-h1-hmmwv/7042671647.html https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/pts/d/tempe-th400-3l80-transmission-hmmwv/7042682353.html...

www.thetruckstop.us

 

[WarWagon]

Welcome and welcome to the Project Asylum. I got a padded room down the hall and am currently out on parole without a 6.2 6.5 project.

What do you intend this truck to do or be?

IMO you have a good 6.2 engine to start with and ONLY need to rebuild the fuel system.

Bluntly a throw-away 6.2 NA engine is NOT a rewarding diesel to learn on because of all the ways it dies a horrible death. Then there is the Gutless smoking wonder that is out run by a 305 gas engine. You haven't driven a NA 6.2 so be warned they can't get out of their own expletive deleted way. You will be wanting a turbo and then hop it up a bit. My 1993 turbo's 6.2 (not stock) would outrun a 1993 gutless stock 454. Regardless stuffing a built SBC that you know well in it and feeding it a tanker truck of expensive high octane gasoline would be money ahead. You will be more money in this "diesel" than you can sell it for unless you only do a fuel system rebuild. Value to you is what matters.

I assume this is the truck with the locked up IP you got spinning. 1985 may not have the governor ring update and thus be a ticking time bomb. Governor ring fails and it's debris screws up the IP. Also possible governor ring fails, engine goes full fuel, and bends the valves to stop or sends hot oily shrapnel out the sides. You will need a way to shut the air off if this runs away. I suggest you have the IP rebuilt due to unknown governor ring, sitting so long, and unk miles.

You also burned the starter up? Word: if it doesn't fire in 30 seconds it's simply not going to fire. The glow plugs cooled off 20 seconds of cranking ago... Stop cranking and holding on to hope it's going to fire: Fix It! 30 seconds and 2+ min to cool the starter when purging the air out of the fuel system. Otherwise you melt down the starter and have 2 problems to fix. These engines take RPM to start. Weak batteries or jump starting is a waste of your time and starters. The 10HP starters also can blow one of four brushes and spin slow. Yeah a massive starter that puts a serious hurt on batteries after the glow plugs softened them up.

Military engines are expendable. When you are under fire and waiting for the steel rain say in Dessert Storm you don't care what the gauges read while you expend the engine past rebuildable. I have opened up some Iraq dessert sand filled burned up boat anchors sold as running 6.2 military take outs.

Some more pics of the engine esp. the glow plug system will help us help you. IMO, and that could be just hope, it appears to have an updated glow plug system on it NOT the 1985 krap system. Look for a round plug on the driver side rear head with a connector on it. It's relay may be throwing me off in the pic.

The above said it looks like a clean engine from your photos. Specifically there isn't any soot built up on the pushrods or heads. If you want a project out of a 6.2 diesel here is where you should start:

1) Fuel system.
What's in the tank? No, not what WAS in the tank: what is in it, NOW? Bugs, water, varnish? Pull some out and see.
This engine has a mechanical fuel pump. It should be replaced due to age and sitting. Bad mech pump: Quick way to not start and then finally fill the crankcase with diesel. Fuel filter gets replaced. All hoses get an inspection. You might want to run the engine out of a 5 gal pail of diesel and then move on to sort out the lines and fuel tank. How many miles on it? IP and injector testing and rebuild.

2) Engine

Pressure test cooling system: looking for head gaskets, cracked head, cracked cyl/block.

Change oil. Make sure you look for coolant coming out - lack of rust on rockers IMO you are fine.

Inspect oil cooler lines for leaks. Replace them if you even suspect a leak. Pop a hose and engine is toast before you can turn the key off. Replace if they are old and stiff...

Compression test looking for around 400 - 500 PSI. Offhand 325 is minimum.

You are looking at the timing chain. How sloppy is it? Yeah, short 30K life before it gets stretched out from the IP load. Now is the time and a gear drive is a better idea. Otherwise you are supposed to reset the IP timing every 6 months from chain stretch...

3) Start it...
You can prime the mechanical fuel pump by hand. I recall a bleeder screw on top of the fuel filter box.
Glow plugs out
Spin it 30 seconds till you get a fuel mist out of the GP holes. No mist = no start due to no fuel.
Then glow plugs in.
You get a glow plug light on key on?
Have air cleaner in place and a board to shut off air if it runs away.

Spin in 30 sec bursts with 2+ min to cool starter. A video of it cranking and we can tell by ear if it's spinning fast enough. You have an optical tach to take a reading while cranking?

 

[WarWagon]

I've started looking at rebuild kits, and WOW, the price of just the kits, not counting on other parts that would be needed. I'd like to find a good one to just drop in.

A good drop in engine is NEW. Used engines are generally in bad shape anymore and need a rebuild if they are rebuildable.

 

[custodian]

I've decided to either find agood running 6.2 or just take everything diesel off the truck and build a gas engine. I have attached a pic of the drivers side head. I'll just part this motor out.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Without being able to tell buyers anything about the motor you might as well give it away, or try to, no one is going to pay for something as unknown as this..

Where are you located?

 

[custodian]

The motor is in an 85 Silverado, showing 65.XXX miles. Factory 6.2 that was mated to a 700R4.

I can't tell you anything about the motor except that it did turn over until the starter died, turns over by hand. I didn't try to start it.

I have removed the IP and, the IP pump drive gears and injector lines, all the brackets, water pump, timing cover and balancer. I removed one of the valve covers to inspect the rocker arms, was clean (see pics from above thread).

It has sat for many years. I will be removing the exhaust manifolds. The motor as it sits now is in long block form still in the truck. I'll remove it when the weather lets me since it's outside.

THAT'S ALL I CAN TELL YOU. I don't know what else to say about it.

I'm not a diesel mechanic. This is the first one I've owned only because it was already in the truck.

Like WarWagon said, it might be a good engine.

I live in Catawba, NC and no, I will not give it away.

 

[WarWagon]

I don't think we/Chris suggested giving it away: it's just that the value of a non-running 6.2 engine is that of scrap metal. Without some basic tests we don't know if it's any good. I paid $200 for a unknown 6.2 as all I wanted was a head off it. I got one head and the rest due to a broken starter ear on the block was scrap metal at $50 a ton. I paid over $2000 for a "tested" 6.2 military engine and got two scrap metal engines and a bag of B.S. Maybe one engine will run with $800 of parts like a cam and all bearings.

The saga of my last project and Ted's Trucks Burned up Boat Anchor Military 6.2 Surplus Engines is here: (Page 5 for the junk engines.)

Bringing 1993 Patch back from the dead...

As the engine is the problem rather than the Moose Call IP a separate build thread is in order. The discussion circled the drain pretty close for "parting it out" or selling as 'runs and drives' as - is. Only ONE thing saved it : I still own a Cumapart and need to send the turbo out for a...

www.thetruckstop.us

I was thinking the governor ring may have already failed and why it quit running. Debris from it may have ruined or plugged up the IP. If the return gets plugged with debris the engine quits, NOW, as the IP quits delivering fuel.

Without testing you simply don't know what you have. Buying a used 6.2, well, it came out of a vehicle for a reason. Again these are not long life diesel engines. Some are by sheer luck. They got great MPG on the high sulfur diesel of their day vs. a carb gas engine.

Again I am suggesting you test what you have before pulling the engine that's a grand of labor value. You may have a good engine.

Otherwise drop a gas engine in.

 

[custodian]

The 6.2 has been removed. The heads have been removed and the block is in short block form. I have everything I removed. Anyone interested in it can make me an offer on everything. Would like to get it out of my way.