Changing rear main seal : how to?

[matuva]

On a 6.5l, the rear main seal just slides over the rear of the crank, so it's an easy maintenance.

Though, as for the 6.2l (casting 660) it seems tess easy to do, as this seal is a 2 pieces one. Is it more difficult, I mean, should I care about something special?

As far as I understand, I will have to release the main cap and pull it out to change the lower portion of the seal, but how do I change the upper part of the seal? Hope I won't have to pull the crankshaft to do it

 

[ak diesel driver]

They can usually be rotated into position

 

[matuva]

mm, so, I think it won't be a good idea to put a bead of black RTV in the groove: this should bound the seal and would not ease a future maintenance?

 

[ak diesel driver]

usually just a dab at the joints, also good practice to keep the seal joints not in line with the cap joint about 1/4"

 

[matuva]

usually just a dab at the joints, also good practice to keep the seal joints not in line with the cap joint about 1/4"

Copy that Les :thumbsup:

 

[trouttrooper]

Maybe comparing apples to oranges, but I did the RMS on my Jeep Cherokee 4.0 engine a number of years ago. Two piece seal like the 6.2. Biggest pain was getting the upper half of the seal to break free without scoring the block. It was kinda stuck in place after 15-ish years. A brass punch would have been nice. In the end I used the handle end of a file as it was the right diameter to rest on the seal. I would NOT recommend doing it as I could have easily made a groove. Also make sure the new seal going in doesn't get damaged, easy to do.

 

[matuva]

I found this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/re...epairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80c90ee2

 

[Burning oil]

Back in 1979 I used a "sneaky Pete" to install and remove a rope type seal with crank still installed.

 

[Burning oil]

Well a google returned this https://www.google.com/webhp?source...F-8#q=sneaky pete rear main seal removal tool

 

[matuva]

Thanks Leroy