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CDR (PCV) valve cleaning?
- Thread starter Tovar
- Start date
Yes it can, diesel fuel, nothing strong that will eat rubber, and don't force air through it, you may rupture the rubber inside.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I tested my stock CDR membrane with every chemical in my shop and nothing fazed it. There's a small hole on the backside that would need to be plugged if you submerge it.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
My CDR experiment
So I decided to experiment with my CDR. I first tried using a standard vac/pressure guage but it wasn't sensitive enough, so I bought a digital manometer off ebay. My initial results are kind of interesting. My high mileage 238k motor has lots of blowby and I'm sucking about 1 gallon of oil thru...
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Will L.
Well-Known Member
Or... get it clean out of the engine bay. Replace it with a provent 200 or similar.
The problem is crank case pressure. It exists at idle, and gets worse as rpm goes up. The more pressure the more oil you can burn and more mpg and more power you loose. Race engines run crank case in a vacuum for power, and benifits are no burned oil, no loss of mpg, no issues anywhere. So why does it exist?
Because at higher rpm the intake air can suck too much engine oil vapor out the crank case and burn it. So instead They used the CDR CrankCase Depressurization Regulator. In Eu, Japan, and other places the cdr was replaced quickly in the early 90’s with catch cans like the provent. Better for your engine in ways I mentioned above and you don’t bave to replace burned oil saving $. And it is far better for the environment. GM just didn’t are to make improvement beyond minimum requirements.
Draw backs are time to install one and cost of buying one.
For saving cash in short term, yeah clean it out. If it fails after cleaning then you do need something.
If anyone wants to buy a new turbo one out of the box from my shelf- I will never install it. Shipping plus $20? You get a free non turbo used one too if ya want it. There is a difference.
The problem is crank case pressure. It exists at idle, and gets worse as rpm goes up. The more pressure the more oil you can burn and more mpg and more power you loose. Race engines run crank case in a vacuum for power, and benifits are no burned oil, no loss of mpg, no issues anywhere. So why does it exist?
Because at higher rpm the intake air can suck too much engine oil vapor out the crank case and burn it. So instead They used the CDR CrankCase Depressurization Regulator. In Eu, Japan, and other places the cdr was replaced quickly in the early 90’s with catch cans like the provent. Better for your engine in ways I mentioned above and you don’t bave to replace burned oil saving $. And it is far better for the environment. GM just didn’t are to make improvement beyond minimum requirements.
Draw backs are time to install one and cost of buying one.
For saving cash in short term, yeah clean it out. If it fails after cleaning then you do need something.
If anyone wants to buy a new turbo one out of the box from my shelf- I will never install it. Shipping plus $20? You get a free non turbo used one too if ya want it. There is a difference.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
Yes you can as long as your emissions testing place will let you. If you already have substantial blowby then you'll still lose oil it will just be stuck to your undercarriage
On second thought, this is a 1999. Electronic everything (it has a hurt feelings sensor). If I run a tube to atmosphere, is that going to trip a sensor, and cause the vehicle to not run, or run problematic? In other words, has somebody else already done this to this year, and type of truck with success?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Tube to the ground is easy and cheap. And it is better than a plugged cdr for the engine. But it does allow the blow by to coalesce in the crank case and contaminate the engine oil much faster.
But a proper working catch can system is what is best for the engine, and by luck is best for the environment also. And I definitely am not a tree hugging kinda guy.
Here is a video of one. Mann and Hummel make the provent200 (which is th proper size for us).
It doesn’t have to have the drain back also. Many people simply cap the drain with a valve, and drain the oil to a small bottle, and pour it back in themselves every so many miles. Newer engine and longer life ran oil, you could do it every 3,000 miles. Engine with high miles on it, how ever often you have to add a quart now.
The provent is the best, aka not cheap. Thats why many diy a catch can. But if you diy one, use coalescing media and hook up to pre turbo “vacuum” source.
Something else I didn’t mention because it isn’t here so I forget- they remove moisture/ humidity from the engine very well. Guys that don’t use the auto drain will pour the catch can into a clean pickle jar to settle out the water, then pour it back in the engine a couple days after draining it.
But a proper working catch can system is what is best for the engine, and by luck is best for the environment also. And I definitely am not a tree hugging kinda guy.
Here is a video of one. Mann and Hummel make the provent200 (which is th proper size for us).
It doesn’t have to have the drain back also. Many people simply cap the drain with a valve, and drain the oil to a small bottle, and pour it back in themselves every so many miles. Newer engine and longer life ran oil, you could do it every 3,000 miles. Engine with high miles on it, how ever often you have to add a quart now.
The provent is the best, aka not cheap. Thats why many diy a catch can. But if you diy one, use coalescing media and hook up to pre turbo “vacuum” source.
Something else I didn’t mention because it isn’t here so I forget- they remove moisture/ humidity from the engine very well. Guys that don’t use the auto drain will pour the catch can into a clean pickle jar to settle out the water, then pour it back in the engine a couple days after draining it.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Oh, some people don’t pour any of it back into the engine because they get rid of fuel vapors, exhaust vapors, soot, etc. but if you are gonna do that learn about header draft tubes...
Not eco friendly, but good to learn about.
Not eco friendly, but good to learn about.
JMJNet
Recruit
From what I understand, the turbo create a small suction to the CDR so the oil vapor will not build up inside the engine.
That is why it is connected to the turbo.
I can be wrong, though. But it seems logical.
If you maintained the oil change schedule, I don't think the CDR will need replacement too often.
If you have to change it often, then there is something wrong with the engine to begin with.
Venting it to the ground is not going to help.
That is why it is connected to the turbo.
I can be wrong, though. But it seems logical.
If you maintained the oil change schedule, I don't think the CDR will need replacement too often.
If you have to change it often, then there is something wrong with the engine to begin with.
Venting it to the ground is not going to help.