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Cast rocker arms

Deafseeingeyedog

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Location
Florida
I've got a set of cast rocker arms out of my M1008. They have a better wear mark from the valve stem face when compared to the stamped steel, the only downside is that they have wear grooves on the shaft which i guess is why GM updated to the plastic buttoned stamped steel rockers.

I've searched around and there doesn't seem to be much information let alone even pictures of these rockers. Could anyone shed some light on these?

Whats their ratio? Are they worth refurbishing and does anyone do it? Whats the Max rpm a 6.5 should even be run to?
 
Whats the Max rpm a 6.5 should even be run to?

Depends on your philosophy.

Heath runs his racer to 5K, but it was built for that.

Most are comfortable with 3,500 for typical use and upwards of 4K for street-rodding.

I am in the camp of staying within the overall build and durability, so I went along with AMG's recommendation of 3,400 for my P-400 and have the computer de-fuel at 3,300 (actually, the options are 3,300 or 3,600, so I went with the lesser).

If yours is a fairly stock-ish 6.5, consider sticking with the 3,500 range.
 
Yeah the cast set up could be read done, if you need to save the cash. If you want the best option roller rockers are the way to go. Stock ratio is 1.5, there is a 1.6 available.

What is your use of the truck-put put grocery getter, heavy towing,etc.?
 
Truck V2.0 in progress.

Goals are to build as fully capable, durable and reliable as possible adventure truck for less than the cost of a used stock Duramax truck. The Idea being able to drive to the mud pits and kick ass all day and drive it back home.


Truck.jpg
 
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You can get new bronze bushings and turn the shafts over and they will be good as new and stronger than the stamped ones...

Where can you find the bushings or do they have to be made and sized to the shafts?

Depends on your philosophy.

Heath runs his racer to 5K, but it was built for that.

Most are comfortable with 3,500 for typical use and upwards of 4K for street-rodding.

I am in the camp of staying within the overall build and durability, so I went along with AMG's recommendation of 3,400 for my P-400 and have the computer de-fuel at 3,300 (actually, the options are 3,300 or 3,600, so I went with the lesser).

If yours is a fairly stock-ish 6.5, consider sticking with the 3,500 range.

I've looked at heaths truck and the massey ferguson tractors running 5,000-5500 higher rpms can be done and maybe that's the advantage of our engines?

I have an Optimizer Reman with a fluidampr and new a/c delco secondary, also have a take off flexplate from peninsular. I'm having the pump rebuilt and was wondering if 4100-4300 sounds unreasonable with just a fluidampr no balancing.

Also Are there any weird resonance rpms to stay out of? I wouldnt want to shift the redline right into one accidentally.

Yeah the cast set up could be read done, if you need to save the cash. If you want the best option roller rockers are the way to go. Stock ratio is 1.5, there is a 1.6 available.

What is your use of the truck-put put grocery getter, heavy towing,etc.?

Whatever you can use a truck for! But really it will probably be a little of everything, around town, to the mud pit, i definitely want to take it to the drag strip at least once with its small tires and see what it can do because when i tested it i Hit 22.5 at 64mph and was the slowest thing at test and tune and there was a Daewoo running a 21!
 
Imo, if you're going for over 4000 RPM you need to start with roller rockers, new valve springs, and balance the lower end if $ permits.

Heath told me along time ago he quit counting the money when he hit 10 thou. The deeper your pockets are the better it will do. Don't ever get confused, $3000 put into a Cummins Will destroy any 6.5.

The daewoo probably took at least $4000. :smuggrin:

The 6.5 was never, ever intended to be a powerful or fast engine. It was built as an economy drive engine. It is designed to be very fuel-efficient for the amount of power produced, and to run a lot of miles with low maintenance cost over time. Running a 6.5 engine to 250,000 miles is very economical to do, more so than any cummins, ford/international light duty engine.

If you want a high rev, high HP 6.5- you need to start with dual injection pumps. With the optimizer Longblock at least you have a good start. And no the optimizer engines lower end is not balanced any better then the GM 6.5.
 
Searching on ebay i found NOS shafts for the 6.2 military engines or 11 dollars plus shipping. I wonder if worn rockers would get more oil than new ones?
 
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