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Buying a Suburban - 6.5l vs Vortec

Mikey von

Mikey von

Member
Messages
236
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12
Location
Burney, CA
OK, getting ready to pull the trigger and I keep going back and forth between a 6.5l vs the vortec. This will be the kid hauler and with our 3rd boy coming in May, it is quite necessary. Reliability and hwy mpg are important as this will be our main vehicle. I only have around $4500 in cash. I also have a '97 Camry that I will sell or trade. I hope to get $2000 for that. Dealer will probably give me $1000-1200. I am not trying to spend all of my money, the less the better.

I am currently looking at 2 rigs. I have not looked at them personally, as they are both a good distance away.

1 - 1997 GMC 1500 Suburban. 106K 5.7l Vortec, cloth interior, power everything (not sure on seats), new tires, great shape inside and out. At a dealer and they are asking $6500. They have not returned emails, I will call tomorrow. I do not know much about it.

2 - 1996 Chevy 2500 Suburban. 204K 6.5l. Leather, power everything. Seller claims, rebuilt transmission, new tires, new paint (dented door was replaced), new injectors, new starter, new flex plate. Says it runs perfect with no faults. He claims it starts up quickly with no smoke when cold. Leaks and burns no fluids. The few pics I have seen show it is clean. He is asking $6000 and will accept my toyota in trade. When we first started talking last week (he had a buyer that was trying to come up with cash), i offered my camry and $3500. He really did not respond to my offer. He called today asking if I was still interested. He seems motivated.

I have looked at a few suburbans and the above situation seems typical. It seems like there is a premium on the 6.5's and to get down in my price range, they are going to be higher miles or have issues. I can find the vortecs with lower miles in my price range. Is the 6.5l worth the extra $$$ and miles?

So what does everyone think?
 
Waitaminnit....

Mikey von said:
OK, getting ready to pull the trigger and I keep going back and forth between a 6.5l vs the vortec.

I am currently looking at 2 rigs. I have not looked at them personally, as they are both a good distance away.

So what does everyone think?
Click to expand...


What's wrong with the Sub you've already got ??

'Cuz for 4k simoleons, you could put a used Banks kit on that pup, swap in a bulletproof 4L80e, give it a fresh coat of paint, and still have enough cash left over to fill the 40g tank with bio!
 
The 6.5s will run easily from 250K to 400K without a rebuild, lots of people here have done it, but it does depend on maintenance and how hard it was run. At 200K for any vehicle, I'd be wondering how much life is left. I bought my Tahoe with 150K, and its now at almost 190K, and I think it's going to start needing a lot of TLC, such as injectors, harmonic balancer, engine mounts and probably lots of other bits and pieces. In my case, it is running extremely well, and its paid for, so that counts for a lot. I'll likely pour the cash into it to keep it running well.

Just remember that ANY used vehicle, you're buying what's left of its life.

In my opinion, the 6.5 will easily out-last the gasser, but you WILL need to learn about their various peculiarities from reading this forum. You'll want to make a number of mods to help with reliability, like a remote FSD, exhaust (or at least a new downpipe), gauges, etc. This is going to be true whether you get a gasser or not (i.e. you need to budget for repairs on an older rig, and probably some reliability improvements).

It is a tough call. I personally like the diesels a lot better, as I believe they will last much longer (if properly maintained and repaired, and IF they have been properly maintained and repaired) than any gasser, but I'd check into the history as much as possible.

Best of luck!

-Rob :)
 
If it indeed does run smooth, start smooth, doesnt knock and rattle, and doesnt have a lot of blow by then I'd say that engine will be fine for a long time more. A 96 that has come this long will keep going.

6.5 sub for sure if the body is clean, rust free. I would think that $4K and the Camry is more than enough for that vehicle. Some clean pickups go for less than $4k, and I paid $5k for mine 3 years ago.
 
I had a '99 Vortec 'Burb and I really didn't like it much. It was easy to start in all weather conditions but was terrible on gas on the highway and had no power at all compared to my 6.5l. I have a small enclosed trailer for my bike and I could definatly feel it behind me in the gasser, it would downshift faster and it was a race between the speedo and the gas gauge. :( My 6.5 pulls all the same hills in 5th gear on cruise and gets about 50% better mileage. Of course it's a little harder to start in the cold and stuff, but the trade offs are well worth it.

Bill
 
Think about the other costs, not just sitcker price

1 - 1997 GMC 1500 Suburban. 106K 5.7l Vortec, cloth interior, power everything (not sure on seats), new tires, great shape inside and out. At a dealer and they are asking $6500. They have not returned emails, I will call tomorrow. I do not know much about it.

Sounds like Dealer may have sold, but might be your better option. Presuming that wifey will be main driver. She won't like Diesel smell, noise, etc.

2 - 1996 Chevy 2500 Suburban. 204K 6.5l. Leather, power everything. Seller claims, rebuilt transmission, new tires, new paint (dented door was replaced), new injectors, new starter, new flex plate. Says it runs perfect with no faults. He claims it starts up quickly with no smoke when cold. Leaks and burns no fluids. The few pics I have seen show it is clean. He is asking $6000 and will accept my toyota in trade. When we first started talking last week (he had a buyer that was trying to come up with cash), i offered my camry and $3500. He really did not respond to my offer. He called today asking if I was still interested. He seems motivated.

Other fell through, he's already spent the money in his head. Agree with other posters here, should be a fairly reliable vehicle. BUT depending on the issue, it can do it suddenly/erratically, at that wouldn't sit well with wifey.


Since your other burb is modded, you probably wrench on your own stuff? If so, 6.5TD gets more viable. If you go to the garage for most things, go Vortec. There's a premium on repair work and hard to find good mechanics for diesels.

Remember, there is more to this than just sticker price. Operating costs come into play, and may even override the sticker price.

Sir Veyor
 
redshift96 said:
What's wrong with the Sub you've already got ??

'Cuz for 4k simoleons, you could put a used Banks kit on that pup, swap in a bulletproof 4L80e, give it a fresh coat of paint, and still have enough cash left over to fill the 40g tank with bio!
Click to expand...

My '89 sub, is just that MINE. In reality, we share cars a lot as I walk commute and my wife will be quitting to raise babies. She likes my burb, running 35's, 4" lift, and being semi-rough interoir makes it more of a truck not a daily driver kid hauler. I plan on fixing it up, but she still does not like having to climb into it. It is also not currently running and more of a project, plus it is MINE! Banks kit is already there :D:D:D:D

TurboTahoe said:
The 6.5s will run easily from 250K to 400K without a rebuild, lots of people here have done it, but it does depend on maintenance and how hard it was run. At 200K for any vehicle, I'd be wondering how much life is left. I bought my Tahoe with 150K, and its now at almost 190K, and I think it's going to start needing a lot of TLC, such as injectors, harmonic balancer, engine mounts and probably lots of other bits and pieces. In my case, it is running extremely well, and its paid for, so that counts for a lot. I'll likely pour the cash into it to keep it running well.

Just remember that ANY used vehicle, you're buying what's left of its life.

In my opinion, the 6.5 will easily out-last the gasser, but you WILL need to learn about their various peculiarities from reading this forum. You'll want to make a number of mods to help with reliability, like a remote FSD, exhaust (or at least a new downpipe), gauges, etc. This is going to be true whether you get a gasser or not (i.e. you need to budget for repairs on an older rig, and probably some reliability improvements).

It is a tough call. I personally like the diesels a lot better, as I believe they will last much longer (if properly maintained and repaired, and IF they have been properly maintained and repaired) than any gasser, but I'd check into the history as much as possible.

Best of luck!

-Rob :)
Click to expand...

Thanks, it is a tough call. It does has some new parts like injectors. I have a rule for used vehicles, I like to get 10K miles out of every $1000 I spend on it. So, if I am spending $6k, i expect to get at least 60000 miles.

buddy said:
If it indeed does run smooth, start smooth, doesnt knock and rattle, and doesnt have a lot of blow by then I'd say that engine will be fine for a long time more. A 96 that has come this long will keep going.

6.5 sub for sure if the body is clean, rust free. I would think that $4K and the Camry is more than enough for that vehicle. Some clean pickups go for less than $4k, and I paid $5k for mine 3 years ago.
Click to expand...

Good points. He says it starts and runs smooth. At least over the last month, 6.5l subs go for more than the pickups. I do not know how many CC I have seen, but have been shot down by the wife. She wants a sub.

mr_goodwrench_06 said:
I had a '99 Vortec 'Burb and I really didn't like it much. It was easy to start in all weather conditions but was terrible on gas on the highway and had no power at all compared to my 6.5l. I have a small enclosed trailer for my bike and I could definatly feel it behind me in the gasser, it would downshift faster and it was a race between the speedo and the gas gauge. :( My 6.5 pulls all the same hills in 5th gear on cruise and gets about 50% better mileage. Of course it's a little harder to start in the cold and stuff, but the trade offs are well worth it.

Bill
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments. This is the reason I am considering the 6.5l.

SIR VEYOR said:
1 - 1997 GMC 1500 Suburban. 106K 5.7l Vortec, cloth interior, power everything (not sure on seats), new tires, great shape inside and out. At a dealer and they are asking $6500. They have not returned emails, I will call tomorrow. I do not know much about it.

Sounds like Dealer may have sold, but might be your better option. Presuming that wifey will be main driver. She won't like Diesel smell, noise, etc.



2 - 1996 Chevy 2500 Suburban. 204K 6.5l. Leather, power everything. Seller claims, rebuilt transmission, new tires, new paint (dented door was replaced), new injectors, new starter, new flex plate. Says it runs perfect with no faults. He claims it starts up quickly with no smoke when cold. Leaks and burns no fluids. The few pics I have seen show it is clean. He is asking $6000 and will accept my toyota in trade. When we first started talking last week (he had a buyer that was trying to come up with cash), i offered my camry and $3500. He really did not respond to my offer. He called today asking if I was still interested. He seems motivated.

Other fell through, he's already spent the money in his head. Agree with other posters here, should be a fairly reliable vehicle. BUT depending on the issue, it can do it suddenly/erratically, at that wouldn't sit well with wifey.


Since your other burb is modded, you probably wrench on your own stuff? If so, 6.5TD gets more viable. If you go to the garage for most things, go Vortec. There's a premium on repair work and hard to find good mechanics for diesels.



Remember, there is more to this than just sticker price. Operating costs come into play, and may even override the sticker price.

Sir Veyor
Click to expand...

Again good points. She does not mind diesel, she drives my 6.2 burb. I am confused by the dealer may have sold thing????

I do like to do most of my own work. I am also familiar with the 6.2 and the 6.5s. I am on this forum and a couple other 6.x forums daily.

I am concerned about it running well when I purchase it and then a few months later something like a head gasket goes (over even worse a crank).
 
I agree with teh above post, if your going to do your own work the diesel would probably be teh way to go. If your going to take it to a shop get a gasser. Most part stores will have all the gasser parts in stock so they will only have the burb for a day or two instead of a week for the diesel.

I wish I could have got you my moms 98 tahoe, they gave it away like 4 years ago on a trade in. The were only given like $4500 for it. Leather heated seats, no rust, always garaged and only 90k on it. It was 4x4 with a 5.7 vortec.
 
Michaeljp86 said:
I agree with teh above post, if your going to do your own work the diesel would probably be teh way to go. If your going to take it to a shop get a gasser. Most part stores will have all the gasser parts in stock so they will only have the burb for a day or two instead of a week for the diesel.

I wish I could have got you my moms 98 tahoe, they gave it away like 4 years ago on a trade in. The were only given like $4500 for it. Leather heated seats, no rust, always garaged and only 90k on it. It was 4x4 with a 5.7 vortec.
Click to expand...

Tahoes are nice,we want the 3rd seat though.

I will be doing most if not all repairs myself.
 
Mikey von said:
I am confused by the dealer may have sold thing????
Click to expand...

Salepeople not answering about questions for a vehicle for sale on their lot?
It might be sold and they haven't pulled it from on-line yet. Leave it right up until auction day?
They might be getting a lot of local interest so there's no pressure to deal with someone far away?
If a seller doesn't answer, typically it's not good for the buyer. They may not care about selling a car, but most dealerships aren't that busy.

Sir Veyor
 
SIR VEYOR said:
Salepeople not answering about questions for a vehicle for sale on their lot?
It might be sold and they haven't pulled it from on-line yet. Leave it right up until auction day?
They might be getting a lot of local interest so there's no pressure to deal with someone far away?
If a seller doesn't answer, typically it's not good for the buyer. They may not care about selling a car, but most dealerships aren't that busy.

Sir Veyor
Click to expand...


gotcha! :D


Came to an price agreement with the '96 6.5l suburban, $4000 plus my Camry contingent on us both passing each others inspections. I going to take my boys camping on the Smith River and he will meet us there to do the swap.
 
I think you made the right call. Inlaws have a 98 K1500 Sub with the Vortec, I'd take my 99 K2500 with 6.5 anyday. I think the 6.5 is really only for those that have an interest in taking care of their own vehicles. Otherwise go gasser, as others have said.
 
im not advocating buying a gasser but those 5.7 vortecs are no slouches in reliablity for a gas engine. my neighbor who has 3 kids needed an extra vehicle so they bought a clean 1996 tahoe with 210k miles for 2k dollars. all it needed was a radiator and spark plugs and away it went. been running good ever since.
 
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