Building a hybrid 6.2/6.5

[ak diesel driver]

Before you unbolt the tranny all the way pull the horizontal bolts that connect the 2 halves of the motor mount. Then jack engine up enough to get at the bolts that hold it to the engine and frame. Won't be easy but should be doable. should be 3 bolts on the engine side and IIRC 2 on the frame side. Sometimes it's easier to do it than explain it.

 

[redshift96]

Hmm..

Before you unbolt the tranny all the way pull the horizontal bolts that connect the 2 halves of the motor mount. Then jack engine up enough to get at the bolts that hold it to the engine and frame. Won't be easy but should be doable. should be 3 bolts on the engine side and IIRC 2 on the frame side. Sometimes it's easier to do it than explain it.

The long bolts that secure the mounts were kind of a PITA for me... between having to hold the nut with a wrench, and the rubber flashing on the threads preventing it from turning easily... made for a long slog.

So I just pulled the three bolts that hold the bottom half of each motor mount bracket to the frame. One of the three on each side is a little challenging to get to, but not too bad.

Then the motor can slide forward freely. Easy to take the rest of the mounts/brackets off the motor once it's out.

 

[uniquediesel]

Truth be known you could have left the heads on the 6.2 and bolted all your stuff on the engine. The later 6.2's (which you have as evident with the oil feed hole) will have the later design 567 cylinder heads.

Watch this.. Go look at the casting number on your cylinder heads, it will end in 567, the same as your 6.5 heads. The only difference is the precup and a smaller exhaust valve diameter (naturally aspirated valve for either 6.2 or 6.5).

You'll want to kick yourself, cause it would been easy to bolt this one in the the truck w/o messing with head gaskets, etc.

Food for thought...

On removing a locked up engine you'll unbolt everything just as you would for one not locked up. One exception, you can't get the Torque Convertor bolts out. No biggie, the coverter will come out with the engine still attached to the flexplate. Once you get the engine out you can contend with getting the bolts out of the torque convertor to release the converter which you'll then place back in the transmission.

You'll need to remove the radiator at any rate, especially to give you the room to get the engine out with that will have the TC still on it.

Hope this helps.

J

 

[Veg_Out]

Truth be known you could have left the heads on the 6.2 and bolted all your stuff on the engine. The later 6.2's (which you have as evident with the oil feed hole) will have the later design 567 cylinder heads.

Watch this.. Go look at the casting number on your cylinder heads, it will end in 567, the same as your 6.5 heads. The only difference is the precup and a smaller exhaust valve diameter (naturally aspirated valve for either 6.2 or 6.5).

You'll want to kick yourself, cause it would been easy to bolt this one in the the truck w/o messing with head gaskets, etc.

Food for thought...

On removing a locked up engine you'll unbolt everything just as you would for one not locked up. One exception, you can't get the Torque Convertor bolts out. No biggie, the coverter will come out with the engine still attached to the flexplate. Once you get the engine out you can contend with getting the bolts out of the torque convertor to release the converter which you'll then place back in the transmission.

You'll need to remove the radiator at any rate, especially to give you the room to get the engine out with that will have the TC still on it.

Hope this helps.

J

This is great information, thank you. I'm still glad to have removed the heads, just to be sure what I was looking at motor wise. I will replace with the 6.5 specific head gaskets and am sure considering using the 6.2 heads with the smaller precups with A Team Turbo for ultimate mpg Suburban.

 

[uniquediesel]

I'd vote for the 6.2 heads simply because they're not 240k miles heads. Totally understand the taking a look and see kind of thing though. No problem on the information.

 

[WarWagon]

Our friend Bill Heath support suggested pulling the heads on my 6.2 repower project for 6.5 gaskets as the 6.2 gaskets are not designed for the boost. Easier to get the heads off when she is on a stand and I also felt better looking 'in' the 'used' engine before she went in. Then I added ARP studs to make sure the heads did not have to come back off...

 

[Veg_Out]

Our friend Bill Heath support suggested pulling the heads on my 6.2 repower project for 6.5 gaskets as the 6.2 gaskets are not designed for the boost. Easier to get the heads off when she is on a stand and I also felt better looking 'in' the 'used' engine before she went in. Then I added ARP studs to make sure the heads did not have to come back off...

My 6.5 heads are actually new last year, they have about 30K less miles than the 6.2 heads. I've sort of caught the bug now, and am looking to build another motor using the extra heads. Watching craigslist for a "6.5 won't run" truck to install the cobbled together frankenmotor into.

 

[Veg_Out]

Can I get an answer, as I've received conflicting information. Can I use 6.2 heads with 6.5 injectors and exhaust manifolds?

I had someone I trust greatly tell me to use the 6.5 heads because my injector lines and exhaust manifolds won't work with the 6.2 heads. I want to use the 6.2 heads for the mpg. Another friend I also trust greatly said, "heck yes use the 6.2 heads, bolt everything on!"

Thank you all.

(BTW, it was broken crankshaft in front of the 5/6 web.) My friend Bill Heath told me today that a bad dampener pulley and out of balance injectors can cause that. Guess what, my dampener was bad, and my relatively new injectors were way out of balance.

 

[ak diesel driver]

which ip are you using? the diff would be the inj lines diff on the ip ends. far as I know the 6.2 heads will work just fine

 

[just a number]

the late model 6.2 heads are the same as the 6.5's. they've got the short injectors in them. if you have the longer injectors you should use the shorter ones with the proper lines. the lines of a 6.5 will work if it still had the DB2 pump. the DS4 one are different. the reason you need the short injectors is the longer set won't clear the manifold.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Can I get an answer, as I've received conflicting information. Can I use 6.2 heads with 6.5 injectors and exhaust manifolds?

I had someone I trust greatly tell me to use the 6.5 heads because my injector lines and exhaust manifolds won't work with the 6.2 heads. I want to use the 6.2 heads for the mpg. Another friend I also trust greatly said, "heck yes use the 6.2 heads, bolt everything on!"

Thank you all.

(BTW, it was broken crankshaft in front of the 5/6 web.) My friend Bill Heath told me today that a bad dampener pulley and out of balance injectors can cause that. Guess what, my dampener was bad, and my relatively new injectors were way out of balance.

My worst fear Your HB was bad or the crank pulley?

Also, 240k is alot too.

 

[Veg_Out]

Both the harmonic balancer was confirmed bad, and my injectors were way out of balance. WAY OUT! Two death sentences right there.

 

[uniquediesel]

Can I get an answer, as I've received conflicting information. Can I use 6.2 heads with 6.5 injectors and exhaust manifolds?
.

Depends, the info you seek has already been presented, but I'll explain further.

Check out the casting number, if it ends in 567 then the heads are the later variety. The 567 cast began the change in injector angle in the head itself, for two specific reasons. The first is that with the angle change and precup redesign made the engines perk up in power and started easier. The second reason is to increase clearance around the engine, namely for the turbo assembly used on the 6.5 later on.

All 6.2 heads prior to 1988 used the long-body injectors but with the wide injector angle. If you look closely at a 567 with an injector installed you can see that there isn't much room between the injector body and the upper portion of the head (where the valve cover seals). On a previous 6.2 head there is much more room.

So, as long as you have the 567 head, whether it be 6.2 (small dot precups) or 6.5, it will work with the turbo exhaust manifold and create no issues.

If the heads aren't 567's it'll be tight between the manifold and short body injectors. Long body injectors absolutly cannot be used with the 6.5TD manifold on 6.2 wide angle heads, without a spacer naturally.

That's all folks...

J

 

[Veg_Out]

After comparing, these head casting numbers do not end in 567 and they have the long body injectors.

I'm going to run the 6.5 new Clearwater heads I bought last year, ARP head studs and I'm going to change the harmonic balancer every 100k, and balance the injectors every couple years. This thing should be much smoother!

 

[great white]

After comparing, these head casting numbers do not end in 567 and they have the long body injectors.

I'm going to run the 6.5 new Clearwater heads I bought last year, ARP head studs and I'm going to change the harmonic balancer every 100k, and balance the injectors every couple years. This thing should be much smoother!

Off topic question:

What are the 4 lights on your dash for?

I assume some of it is the high idles switches....

 

[Veg_Out]

Off topic question:

What are the 4 lights on your dash for?

I assume some of it is the high idles switches....

They are my Frybrid controls. Tells me when I'm on veggie.

 

[WarWagon]

All 6.2 heads prior to 1988 used the long-body injectors but with the wide injector angle. If you look closely at a 567 with an injector installed you can see that there isn't much room between the injector body and the upper portion of the head (where the valve cover seals). On a previous 6.2 head there is much more room.

:iamwithstupid:
My pre 1988 6.2 took the 6.5 injectors just fine. There wasn't a lot of room so I wrapped the passenger manifold in header wrap. The heat shield had to be put in then tighten manifold bolts. Yes, it is that tight on the injectors with the older 6.2 heads.

But it worked.

 

[Veg_Out]

Well folks, here is the hybrid motor I built. Thank you all for your support and help. Thanks especially to Slim Shady and Turbine Doc.

PS, the A Team Turbo and KOJO Tune kick major tail!

[video=youtube;K343JtELjbQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K343JtELjbQ[/video]