Building a hybrid 6.2/6.5

[Veg_Out]

Can I get a little hand here from more educated folks please? I'm in process of building a motor, I've found a 6.2 to use, and now want to add all my 6.5 goodies to it.

Here's what I know.

Replace 6.2 heads with my 6.5 heads
Use 6.5 IP, injectors and injector lines
Replace the intake with 6.5 intake
Add new 6.5 timing chain and gears
Add all 6.5 accessories from the front
Fabricate a new oil feed line to the turbo from a port above the oil filter


(Please cut and paste and add to the list.) Thanks.

 

[bk95td]

Timing cover from 6.5 water pump and plate from serpintine drive, crank pulley and flex plate from 6.5 for 4l80e trans. Most 6.2 flexplates don't have the right bolt pattern [t400 or 700r4] New oil cooler so any filings from the old engine don't get in the new one.

 

[jmiller]

If your having the 6.2 rebuilt, have the oil lines tapped to 1/2 to accept the stock 6.5 oil lines, or larger 1/2" custom lines.

 

[WarWagon]

Replace 6.2 heads with my 6.5 heads ** Not required, just use a 6.5 head gasket set with 6.2 heads.
Use 6.5 IP, injectors and injector lines ** Injectors are all you have to change. Lines will bend but best fit is with 6.5 lines. You wanted a DB2 conversion right??? ):h
Replace the intake with 6.5 intake
Get new 6.5 exhaust manifolds off fleabay as yours likely have warped and will leak.
Add new 6.5 timing chain and gears ** Not required.
Add all 6.5 accessories from the front
Fabricate a new oil feed line to the turbo from a port above the oil filter ** You can tap the oil pressure sensor as the referenced plug will not come out easy.

ARP head studs to keep it toghether with the higher compression of the 6.2.

(Please cut and paste and add to the list.) Thanks.

See above

Yes check the following esp for a 1995, but I got lucky with the 93:
The flex plate on the pre 88 6.2 worked fine on the 4L80E.
So did the oil cooler line adapters.

 

[matuva]

and when finished, ship it to New Caledonia.

I'm volunteer to find a truck to install this unit and report then

 

[just a number]

it sounds like your dealing with the same mess as me. Except with me, I starting out with a 6.2 and adding the turbo. what year was the 6.2?

 

[3500GMC]

Count me into the mess also... 6.2 longblock complete with heads, IP and long/coarse injectors going into my '93...

I used the OPS location for turbo oil, for better or worse. WP on the 6.2 spins CW.(v-belt) The 6.5 serpentine WP is CCW.

One day I may drive it. :rolleyes5:

 

[Veg_Out]

Here's the new motor

A GM replacement 6.2 with 30k on the clock. 660 block. I hope this one holds together.

Enjoy. I Am Dave, here's the AC compressor.

I'll turn this thread into the build up. It's not going to be quite as pretty at Ratman or AK's, or Bobbie Martins. I've got to get my burb back to working. Killing me!

 

[3500GMC]

I like it. If I may ask, whatdya' have to give for it?

 

[Veg_Out]

It was a good deal! I traded some non used 6.5 parts for it and a little cashola.

 

[Veg_Out]

I remember Turbine Doc or another heavy hitter around here placing a thread called "engine replacement" or something like that. It was a line by line description of how to get the motor out of one of these beasts.

I'm taking this on myself, and very anxious. thanks.

 

[Matt Bachand]

I remember Turbine Doc or another heavy hitter around here placing a thread called "engine replacement" or something like that. It was a line by line description of how to get the motor out of one of these beasts.

I'm taking this on myself, and very anxious. thanks.

TTS has your back bro! No worries!

 

[WarWagon]

You need to be soaking your blown engine's turbo exhaust nuts in penetrating oil along with the manifold bolts. Days ahead of the project...

 

[Tookie]

I remember Turbine Doc or another heavy hitter around here placing a thread called "engine replacement" or something like that. It was a line by line description of how to get the motor out of one of these beasts.

I'm taking this on myself, and very anxious. thanks.

This isn't the way for everyone, but I pulled mine out with the transmission attached, didn't have to fight getting to
the bellhousing bolts.
Lessee, took out radiator, fan, batteries, air cleaner, took A/C compressor off of bracket, left lines hooked up so I
wouldn't have to recharge A/C, unbolted PS bracket and left lines hooked up to it, just moved it forward a little.
Had to unplug a bunch of wires (PS pump, temp sender, A/C, IAT, GPs, etc.) do yourself a favor, get some heavy duty labels
and mark all the wires as you unplug them, it'll make your life easier when you put them back.
Heater hose, from quick connect to heater - take apart whichever end is easier for you. A couple of main engine
wiring plugs on top near firewall. Crossover and turbo downpipe. (spray exhaust bolts at flange with PB blaster
a day or so before, and mine were TIGHT)
On frame at crossmember is lift pump and return line, I disconnected these and forced a 3/4" rubber heater hose cap over them.
Unbolt driveshaft from transmission yoke (be careful the U-joint caps don't come off, wrap a piece of duct tape around the U-joint til
you're ready to put it back) One nut on transmission mount, then remove the crossmember. 2 motor mount bolts, and
up, up, and away! I'm sure I missed a few little things, but it's not real bad - if you decide to pull just the motor, the
fuel lines can be disconnected at the fuel filter, and you'll have to take off the torque converter cover and unbolt it,
and prop up the front of the tranny (a 2X4 and a floor jack works) Leave the turbo on til you pull the motor, and put
it back on before you reinstall the engine - i found it easier that way. Either way, take your time, mark wires, if you
have a digital camera, take pics of things as you go, you can look at them later if you forget how something went.
Good luck, post up if you need help.

 

[Veg_Out]

Well, here is a little update. New engine torn almost down to where I need it.

Turns out the later 660 blocks have a port just like our 6.5's for oil feed to the turbo. I'll just use my existing line to the A Team. Also, for those folks who care, I've decided to go with bk95's Alpine Green. Silver accents. Don't have the time, inclination or money, but would love to chrome the injector lines.

The bellhousing bolts really suck. I've got the 4 easy ones. I was able to get to the top one passenger side by reaching over from the top once I got my intake all out of there.

Tomorrow I've got to get the remaining tricky ones by the driver. There is some sort of bracket on the second one from the driver's side. I'm thinking it's connected to the other one on top.

Also, how do the motor mounts come loose? Is it just the one 15mm at the base? Then yank the motor?

Lots of little things. I've just taken masking tape and marked every electrical disconnection I've made.

One last question for tonight. The motor is frozen solid. Is there any way to crank this thing over, or do I just pull forward and take the torque converter with it?

 

[ak diesel driver]

take the torque convertor with it

 

[6.2 turbo]

You will take a chance at hurting the tranny pump, I would drop the pan and loosen the bearing caps or if its bent or broken rods get them out of the way.

 

[redshift96]

You will take a chance at hurting the tranny pump, I would drop the pan and loosen the bearing caps or if its bent or broken rods get them out of the way.

Holy crap would that be a royal PITA. It's not much fun doing it when the motor is on a stand, let alone on your back underneath the beast. And if it's locked, you won't be able to get to at least two of the rod bolts, probably more. So you're still kinda screwed.

If you're concerned about the trans input shaft or pump, I'd just drop the driveshaft and pull the trans back first.

I just did two engine pulls, both by taking the bellhousing bolts loose, then pulling the three motor mount bracket bolts from below, bracing the tranny in place, and sliding the motor forward as soon as the weight is off the mounts. Worked pretty smoothly, no binding at the trans, not much load on the input shaft, apparently. Must've blocked up the trans just about right.

 

[ak diesel driver]

just totally remove to motor mounts so you don't have to lift it to slide it forward. And if you do have to lift keep the tranny inline so you don't damage it.

 

[Veg_Out]

ak,

Have you got a sentence or two on exactly how to remove the motor mounts completely?

Thanks.