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Build your own WMI

I already said the mixture of alternative fuel to the air has to be low enough not cause premature detonation. There is a certain percentage within air that a chemical is not combustable by flame and if you hover right around that, a little above no big deal, and adjust fuel based on boost amount because of increased air mass then all will be fine. It should be calclulated by mass and not volume.

I'm all for it, I have a propane fumigation system for my 6.5TD, and gathering components for the WMI system. You dont have to agree with me, I'm trying to explain how it works, not my opinion on IDI vs direct injection. With a little science and engineering it all works great. The trial and error method tends to blow stuff up :) I am developing my two staged propane system to output very little at low boost and once I hit the sustained hill climb or the level of boost I'd reach really accelrating (maybe 9-10psi) it would output a lot more propane because for the large increase in air mass. Heath might come out with a 6.5 kit with a mechanical boost adjusted propane regulator, but its going to be costly, so I'm OK with only 2 stages with some Hobbs pressure switches and solenoids. The same two stages will apply to my WMI, and maybe even one inbetween, depending how many holes I want to tap into my intake.

Also, not all diesels of the past were IDI, so they wouldnt have this issue.
 
Finally :eek:

I was running a 375ml/min nozzle at time of destruction. It worked fine like that for a long time. I did also have a 225 ml/min nozzle in there for a while. It did not make nearly as much power but it made huge differences in the EGT - lowering it by nearly 150f post turbo.

I do have the stage II Snow kit. I did not ever set up the kit to increase the pump pressure for the second stage, so I assume that the kit was running at 75 psi instead of the higher level 150 psi. I am not really sure about that but I do remember setting the controller so the second stage was to come on at some crazy boost level like 30psi, which of course would never happen.
 
Thats only 6gph if I figured correctly. Was that at rated pressure of the nozzle or was you running way above its spec?

I need to install my home brewed WMI, I've had all the parts for a couple years now, just hadn't got around to it.
 
6gph is about right. I belive that is a flow specification that snow has created themselves, assume 150psi? I am not sure, their instructions do not really indicate that for sure. I know for sure I was using up much more than 6gph, so maybe that is a rating for a much lower pressure. The orfice size on the 375 nozzle is somewhere in between .042 and .045, that is as close as I can measure it.
 
Another factor to consider is that if the pump/line pressure is 75 psi, 15 psi boost pressure in the manifold makes the pressure delta across the nozzle 60 psi. Not a huge deal, but worth remembering in conditions where the manifold pressure is a significant % of the water pressure & you're calculating expected flowrates.

Prolly not critical in experimenting 'til you get the results you're after. Might be relevant in estimating actual flowrate once you've got the setup dialed in how you want.
 
And also, since you brought up factors, nozzles are rated for a pressure. So if youre running less pressure the atomization is not a good and the flow is not as much. And if the pressure is higher then there is more flow than the rating.

I would personally go with smaller nozzle(s) at higher pressure, so it gets the best atomization. Remember the pumps are rated for a pressure and will likely hold that pressure even with a large nozzle, so the pressure drop from the spraying wont phase a good pump.
 
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