• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Brand new 4L80E transmission with leaking harness and Black sludge in fluid pan.

DrinaDi

New Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
4
Hi I also posted this problem in my introduction post.

We have a 4L80E tranmission with the wire connection plug harness leaking. We dropped the pan to push the inside part of the harness back out and snap it in place to seal, like we read to do. First off when we drained and dropped the pan the magnet was covered in black gunk like an oil slim, the bottom of the pan is cover in a thin layer of black stuff and the fluid came out the pretty pink it should be, but after sitting in the drain bucket, it now has an oil residue forming at the top. There is no metal shaving that I could feel. I read some black or gray stuff is normal on the magnet. I don't think there should be any clutch dust or metal shavings or any contamination, the tranny is suppose to be brand new. I've included pictures. Oh and the inside harness wire connector is clicked in and tight, I can't even push/pull it out. So does the whole inside wire connection harness need to be replaced, since it's leaking even though it's tight and clicked in place or is there a seal missing to the external harness that seals when plugged in ? Which harness is bad the internal or external? Also remember it's been sitting since October 2021 so the fluid also isn't mixed in the tranny. The pictures blow are: 1st Inside transmission after pan drop (it's dark out so the pics not to good, and idk you need to see this, but just in case. 2nd: Drained tranny fluid with black film like liquid after it's sat a few moments. 3rd: 8nside tranny pan with black stuff covering bottom of pan. 4th: The black stuff I cleaned off magnet and a swipe to the bottom of pan. 5th: External wire connection harness with tranny fluid dripping out of it. 6th: outside of external harness covered in leaking tranny fluid. 7th: Inside wire connection harness.
 
Last edited:
Some black sludge is normal in a new/rebuilt transmission. The new frictions and steels are seating them selfs in. Its like breaking in a new set of brake pads.

That being said an excessive amount of sludge can indicate an issue. Obviously the same goes for metal shavings.
 
Original post with pictures.

Did you just buy this truck? Did you build it and just get it finished? Did it ever work or is it just turning transmissions into scrap metal?

Sorry.

If you start to have something "slip" in a transmission specifically a clutch looses it's higher "static" friction and is now the lower "sliding" friction two things are going to happen: It's going to get real hot real quick and WILL NOT STOP SLIPPING unless you get your foot out of it. After it gets real hot it may have glazed and not have enough friction holding power anymore = slipping = ruined just shedding metal and cooking the oil. You may have limped, slipping puts the transmission into limp mode, the transmission and even overcome it's holding ability in limp mode forcing it to slip.

I am surprised it made it 100 miles. :facepalm:

Many problems can cause a transmission to burn up quickly. I suggest the wiring harness with the pin unseated may be a cause. Oil is an insulator ... loss of electrical signals can burn a transmission up.

Did anyone "build" this transmission to take the supercharged 408 Stroker LSA 6.2lt Motor's power?

Did they reuse a torque converter full of debris? Please tell me it's not the shitty OEM converter with a lockup clutch that can't hold well enough to lug a damn anemic 6.2 IDI Diesel. Really need more info about this build otherwise we are guessing.

What area you located as there are some good transmission shops I know well. All too well... 🤪
 
Last edited:
So we bought an 05 Chevy Silverado in 2021, with stock 5.3 Motor and 4L60E tranny. My husband wanted to have it built, suspension and motor for off-reading. So we went to a place called "Socal Sales Source" an had him get the motor. We didn't know much about motors. My husband just knew he wanted more HP for off-roading and Baja racing. So Chris the owner of Socal Sales said the 408 Stroker LSA motor with Super charger and 4L80E Transmission will have 750HP. So went with that set up. He also decided he wanted to install this motor and super charger and tranny himself. We found out later he'd never put in a motor or anything before, and he did a shit job!!! We had the brand new LSA Motor with new super charger and brand new 4L80E Transmission put in first, then towed it to DirtKing to get the 4-link race package then towed back to Socal Sales to get the oil catch can put in and dyno tuned. When we picked it up he didn't say we had to do anything special. So we drove it home, about 100 miles. Immediately my husband noticed it didn't seem to have the power or pick up and go it was suppose to with this new motor. It didn't even sound as loud or beefy as it was suppose to. It sounded and felt as if it was starving for fuel. Sputtered when stepped on gas.It still had the stock fuel system, he didn't say we needed a bigger one. Then it started stalling. We called Chis at Socal, he said we had to drain the oil catch can. Which made no sense to me cause that's removing oil from the Motor. The motor needs the oil to stay in the motor, not drained out. After draining it the truck would start and go good a mile ish then start again stuttering again. Till the last time it ran; the truck started idealing real wiered, stuttering, almost stalling then like reveing back up. So I turned it off. Hasn't started since. It's been sitting since last June. We drained the oil catch can researching we found he hooked the oil catch can up wrong, he didn't install a return line.
 
super charger and tranny himself. We found out later he'd never put in a motor or anything before, and he did a shit job!!! We had the brand new LSA Motor with new super charger and brand new 4L80E Transmission put in first, then towed it to DirtKing to get the 4-link race package then towed back to Socal Sales to get the oil catch can put in and dyno tuned. When we picked it up he didn't say we had to do anything special. So we drove it home, about 100 miles. Immediately my husband noticed it didn't seem to have the power or pick up and go it was suppose to with this new motor. It didn't even sound as loud or beefy as it was suppose to. It sounded and felt as if it was starving for fuel. Sputtered when stepped on the gas or stopped at a light. It still had the stock fuel system, he didn't say we needed a bigger one. Then it started stalling. We called Chis at Socal, he said we had to drain the oil catch can. Which made no sense to me cause that's removing oil from the Motor. The motor needs the oil to stay in the motor, not drained out. After draining it the truck would start and go good a mile ish then start stuttering again. Till the last time it ran; the truck started idealing real wiered, stuttering, almost stalling then like reveing back up. So I turned it off. Hasn't started since. It's been sitting since last June 2021. There was never a known or felt Transmission isseue. We researched the oil catch can an found he hooked that up wrong, he didn't install a return line. There was still enough oil in motor tho. We started looking at the whole build, needed a bigger fuel pump to get more fule to the bigger motor, which we did ourselves. He "street" tuned it with his laptop not dyno tuned like we paid for, the transmission wire connector plug harness was unplugged and leaking tranny fluid, engine mounts not tightened, high output cooler not wired in. When we dropped the transmission pan to reinstall or fix the inner harness so it didn't leak, only 2 bolts on the pan were tight. The others easily undid with the socket. Could the sludge be caused by sitting almost year? I doubt it, but the trammision was suppose to be brand new, but the guy Chris from Socal Sales won't tell us where he bought it, so we don't know if it had upgrades parts or not. He just said it's not his fault the truck doesn't run, and this truck was a waste of him time. This whole motor cost $26,000, but it was a waste of his time... We've been slowing fixing what we could, but we couldn't get anyone to look over the motor and tell us exactly what's wrong, so we can fix it and sue the guy. Anyway The 4L80E transmission is not the stock transmission and suppose to be new and shouldn't ha20210826_162117.jpgFB_IMG_1628005640033.jpg20210826_162117.jpgFB_IMG_1628005640033.jpgve any black clutch dust sludge crap in it... Sorry if this was extra or to much info. Thank you for your time and20210826_162117.jpgFB_IMG_1628005640033.jpg
 

Attachments

  • FB_IMG_1628005650635.jpg
    FB_IMG_1628005650635.jpg
    145 KB · Views: 1
  • FB_IMG_1627857669550.jpg
    FB_IMG_1627857669550.jpg
    84.1 KB · Views: 1
  • FB_IMG_1627857672576.jpg
    FB_IMG_1627857672576.jpg
    92.7 KB · Views: 1
With all the problems involved, that person needsto be hauled into court.
After all of the problems. If it were Mine vehicle. That engine and transmission would be removed. The transmission separated from tje engine, transmission taken to a reliable transmission shop and gone completely through. A new high torque torque convertor installed, all the problems that might be possible from the higher horse engine dealt with, then, put it all back together.
 
750hp requires dual pumps and many other supporting mods. Who did the harness work as you said you switched from a 5.3l/4l60e to a stroker/4l80e? The tuner should have told you right off it was running out of fuel as the stock 190 lph pump is only good for about 425hp n/a(about 375hp F/I).

Honestly there is to many variables here for us to work out over a forum with the info provided. You need to either know EXACTLY what you're doing to build a setup like this, or work with a shop who does know what they're doing, and have a CRAP ton of cash to spend on it.
 
Thank you guys, we spent our whole life saving on this truck for my husband and his late Uncles dream to race the Baja 500. The guy who sold us the Motor also sold us that he could install it. Well turns out he can't... We're trying to go to court, but we need someone to go through it and tell us what he did wrong, incomplete and/or incompetent. We can't just go in and say he messed it up. We need specifics to prove he messed up. Even though we dropped off a running truck and got back a 100mile then dead truck. Everyone keeps saying you need money for a truck like this, we had it, we spent it, we didn't get what we paid for, we don't have the money to rebuild it... He couldn't even hook up the oil catch can right, and he tuned it himself with his laptop, but said he was having it Dino tuned at a professional shop. Anyway it's been a real sad and disappointing Ship Show... My husband got an upgraded fuel pump for it and put it in so it should be able to handle the hp now, but I think the tunings all wrong, And of course the transmission now. Thank you everyone for taking the time to respond, I'm just gonna throw it in the trash...
 
Saddening circumstances for sure.
Maybe contact John at QuadStar Tuning and see if He maybe can help You out. He is a sponsor of this forum.
Another one might be Chris at Twisted Steel Performance, He also is a sponsor.
 
Original post with pictures.

Did you just buy this truck? Did you build it and just get it finished? Did it ever work or is it just turning transmissions into scrap metal?

Sorry.

If you start to have something "slip" in a transmission specifically a clutch looses it's higher "static" friction and is now the lower "sliding" friction two things are going to happen: It's going to get real hot real quick and WILL NOT STOP SLIPPING unless you get your foot out of it. After it gets real hot it may have glazed and not have enough friction holding power anymore = slipping = ruined just shedding metal and cooking the oil. You may have limped, slipping puts the transmission into limp mode, the transmission and even overcome it's holding ability in limp mode forcing it to slip.

I am surprised it made it 100 miles. :facepalm:

Many problems can cause a transmission to burn up quickly. I suggest the wiring harness with the pin unseated may be a cause. Oil is an insulator ... loss of electrical signals can burn a transmission up.

Did anyone "build" this transmission to take the supercharged 408 Stroker LSA 6.2lt Motor's power?

Did they reuse a torque converter full of debris? Please tell me it's not the shitty OEM converter with a lockup clutch that can't hold well enough to lug a damn anemic 6.2 IDI Diesel. Really need more info about this build otherwise we are guessing.

What area you located as there are some good transmission shops I know well. All too well... 🤪
Are they really that good, if you keep having to go back?
 
Back
Top