• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Blown hub bearing?

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
Messages
10,689
Reaction score
8,460
Location
AZ
Working on the 1993 4x4 2500. Although I wrote the book on changing front rotors I am scratching my head over this one.
I got a loud squeal noise when the truck is warm going down the road. Stone cold there is no noise. Sounds like an oil seal not a brake pad squealer. The next day around 35 MPH it sounds like I suddenly put off road tires on the truck, but, this noise is kinda coming from the back. Sounds like dry ball bearings.

I put the wheels in the air and get the squeal from the passenger side front wheel. Figuring the Precision hub bearing is going bad. (And it doesn't have that many miles on it.) The test of the rear was inconclusive. Only when running the engine did we get gear noise, but, only one wheel was spinning in the air.

Oil in the diffs look ok.

I did get things wet enough for the drum brakes to grab hard while stopping. Like 1/8 mile of flooded road during our last storm some weeks ago. Is it possible for water to ruin a hub bearing?
 
Yes, maybe, based on a theory I read years ago...

If the bearing and hub are hot it creates a slight pressure inside. When you drive through water it quickly cools the area where the seal rides and can generate a pressure differential. Not necessarily a high vacuum, but enough to suck the water in passed the seal that is there at the moment of thermal drop like solder getting sucked into a copper joint by a plumber. As the bearing regains it's heat while continuing to travel off cooks most the moisture and out the seal since it is way more viscous than the lube. When you pull it apart you find almost nothing- Just a few droplets left that didn't disperse back into a vapor from the rest of the heat.

From a trouble shooting manual for problems for field mechanics in Korea. Not that I was there, just from the Army books my dad had around.
 
Passenger side hub bearing is toast. Suspect a bad spindle seal to the half shaft letting water in as these were never changed.
 
Passenger side hub bearing is toast. Suspect a bad spindle seal to the half shaft letting water in as these were never changed.

Had this happen to me. Water got in the bearing even though they're supposed to be sealed. Makes a horrible sound.
 
Sounds like a wheel bearing. Need to replace one on the 01 K3500 8.1L, it only squeals when you hit the skinny pedal. Checked all accessories, rode in bed thinking fuel pump, gave up went to service front end and slight play in the bearing.
 
On our 2002 Suburban we experienced a similar noise in the front end, also mainly when braking. Took it to a mechanic and we were told it was bad wheel bearing. On a whim before I replaced it I tried to tighten the wheel nut on the spindle- I was able to get almost 3/4s of a turn. I like the wheel nut system on the s10s better- they use a cotter key to retain the nut, and thought it was pretty dumb of GM to eliminate the cotter key on the fullsizes. I now periodically check all my GM fullsize 4x4s and have found a couple more with similar loose nuts. BTW, the noise went away, the play in the wheel went away and the truck passed inspection by the same mechanic after the nut was tightened.
 
I get my GMT 800's from the dmaxstore w/ lifetime no questions asked warranty. Aka kryptonite

The GMT 800's are held by 250ft/lb and a lock nut. I replace the nut w/ the hub/bearing.
 
Adding to the saga after both hub bearings and half shafts were changed I still have the offroad noise! Apparently after 4 years and 100K the seals on the poly center bearing on the prop shaft gave it up and it ate water too. I used a grease needle to try and buy some silence, but, too late. It stops the torque shudder from a stop when towing, but, always had a high speed vibration at 75 MPH. Exceeds trailer tire MPH rating so not a big deal really. I will be putting a rubber one on as the truck is mainly retired anyway. With it's $200 cost It was upsetting to loose this part although it served us well.
 
I am working on the 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel. Replacing ball joints..

I had the left front wheel bearing replaced not to awful long ago.

They screwed up. Apparently they did not get the grease cup on the half axle slid in properly and it was all folded over - which in turn ripped off the back of the seal.

Can I buy the grease cup for the half axle to replace it?

The seal does not look replaceable to me. I thought I had read before that those seals could be replaced.

By the looks of an old - half pulled apart bearing I have here - it looks like the inner seal is inside of the the inner half of the front wheel bearing on a 1994 K3500 4x4.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

My plan is to just pack the seal with grease, put it back together and run it until the bearing pukes.

But I really need the grease cup for the half axle to give it any chance of living for a while.
 
Last edited:
Torque Specs for the 1994 K3500 and 1998 K2500 Suburban

Front wheel bearing to steering knuckle 133 ft lbs.

Half axle to bearing nut 35mm or 36 mm 180 Ft lbs.

Lug nuts 140 Ft lbs.

Half shaft to front differential 58 ft lbs.

outer tie rod nut 35 ft lbs

Starter bolts 35 ft lbs

turbo to exhaust 43 ft lbs

turbo drain tube 19 ft lbs

4L80E pan bolts 18 ft lbs.

Belt tensioner 37 ft lbs

alternator 18 ft lbs.
 
I am working on the 1994 K3500 6.5 diesel. Replacing ball joints..

I had the left front wheel bearing replaced not to awful long ago.

They screwed up. Apparently they did not get the grease cup on the half axle slid in properly and it was all folded over - which in turn ripped off the back of the seal.

Can I buy the grease cup for the half axle to replace it?

The seal does not look replaceable to me. I thought I had read before that those seals could be replaced.

By the looks of an old - half pulled apart bearing I have here - it looks like the inner seal is inside of the the inner half of the front wheel bearing on a 1994 K3500 4x4.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

My plan is to just pack the seal with grease, put it back together and run it until the bearing pukes.

But I really need the grease cup for the half axle to give it any chance of living for a while.


The part I need is called the ring deflector in the book.It goes on the half axle, up next to the bearing seal.

I called 3 stores and a dealer.

So far the only way I can get it is to buy a half axle and swap it.

In the 1994 book it is page 4C10 part #20

Is there a matching parts schematic with part numbers?

Or a description with the real O.D. and I.D. for that part. Mine is to mucked up to get an accurate measurement.

I will try getting measurements off the half axle tomorrow

If anybody has a half axle with this part in good condition, I would buy it.

Near as I can tell most half axles are returned for core charges.

I have 2 half axles off of gasser K1500's but they are smaller diameter
 
This may be a pressed on assembly and best I recall isn't a separate part. Picture? The part I would be referring too that likely you read about from me is the 'wheel seal' that's in the spindle where the half shaft (axle?) goes through it. This is a separate seal than the hub bearing has. Dust-water seal whatever it's purpose is.
 
Back
Top