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Blower motor quit working last winter.

546cowboy

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This gets complicated. Last winter the blower stopped working in my 1995 GMC K-3500 Dually so I reached over at the bottom of the dash and wiggled the wire harness under the glove box area. The blower came back on now this happened several times before one day it did not start. I thought about that for awhile and figured it could be that rubber connector on the blower motor so I got a new one and you guessed it that didn't work.

Now I get my test light out and there is no power at the blower connector so where do I go from there the fuse block and all fuses are good inside or outside under the hood Now what to do well the truck is 26 years old and forget about finding a wiring diagram oh there are some but they are so small and fuzzy they are useless. Now one more monkee wrench here is this truck sat for some time on a farm and mice had been in it. I took thr glove box out to follow the wires if possible. Not possible but there was a small mouse nest there I vaccumed out no bear wires I could see.

So a friend and I decided to run a hot wire to a switch and then the blower motor so I could have heat to defog the windshield and have heat.
I might as well tell you I was a GM Olds- Pontiac- GMC mechanic off and on for over twenty years and did a lot of electrical work with wiring diagrams but never anything like this problem. All of that was in Texas where you never see heater problems or many more of those here in NW Indiana.

As I kept going I bought a new control head and found you cannot get the original anymore and it requires a jumper harness to install which by the way is $200 for a 6 inch harness and another $89.00 for the control. So I pulled the dash panel apart, the control and radio and another mouse nest we sucked up with no visable damage to the wiring. I pulled the instrument cluster to see the wiring harness and can't see it because of a plastic panel behind it. I then found there was no power at the control either.

I do not know where the power is suppoed to come from. It just so happens I have a 1988 wiring and troubleshooting manual but of course the 1995 is not the same and there is no junction block under the hood that supplied power to the control then.
One more thing I should explain here is last March I had my shop burn down and lost all my tools and over $80,000 in 50 years of accumulation so I have no place to work inside and spring is not helpful as it is April and it snowed last night. I made an appointment last week to take the truck to a place that specializes in electrical work. I am 75 years old and just cannot deal with this anymore.

All wiring diagrams on the Internet are too small and cannot be enlarged and are so fuzzy you cannot read them or I can't and for some reason there are no collors to the wires anyway. This truck has been a money pit so far as I bought it at an on-line auction knowing it might have a blown head gasket and it is a diesel. Yes it did and that alone cost me over $3500 parts and labor to fix and I now have over $10,000 in a 27 year old truchk with 106,000 miles on it.

Any ideas would be welcomed but now a little late maybe. I did hear there is a fusable link somewhere but don't know where that could be.
 
Welcome to the forum 546.
Remove the jockey box. On top of the heater box there is a plasticated plate that has two screws holding it down. That is a mounting bracket for the variable speed resistors.
Also there is a connector plug under the dash that does melt and create problems. Some folks in here have commented on replacing that connector to get the blower motor once again functional.
It is HE double hockey sticks to get older and the vision goes to crap.
I was just into the vision clinic, the exam gal said I really do need to get this cataract surgery done after I told Her how beautiful she was. 🤷‍♂️😹😹😹😹 Just kidding. 😹😹😹
 
This gets complicated. Last winter the blower stopped working in my 1995 GMC K-3500 Dually so I reached over at the bottom of the dash and wiggled the wire harness under the glove box area. The blower came back on now this happened several times before one day it did not start. I thought about that for awhile and figured it could be that rubber connector on the blower motor so I got a new one and you guessed it that didn't work.

Now I get my test light out and there is no power at the blower connector so where do I go from there the fuse block and all fuses are good inside or outside under the hood Now what to do well the truck is 26 years old and forget about finding a wiring diagram oh there are some but they are so small and fuzzy they are useless. Now one more monkee wrench here is this truck sat for some time on a farm and mice had been in it. I took thr glove box out to follow the wires if possible. Not possible but there was a small mouse nest there I vaccumed out no bear wires I could see.

So a friend and I decided to run a hot wire to a switch and then the blower motor so I could have heat to defog the windshield and have heat.
I might as well tell you I was a GM Olds- Pontiac- GMC mechanic off and on for over twenty years and did a lot of electrical work with wiring diagrams but never anything like this problem. All of that was in Texas where you never see heater problems or many more of those here in NW Indiana.

As I kept going I bought a new control head and found you cannot get the original anymore and it requires a jumper harness to install which by the way is $200 for a 6 inch harness and another $89.00 for the control. So I pulled the dash panel apart, the control and radio and another mouse nest we sucked up with no visable damage to the wiring. I pulled the instrument cluster to see the wiring harness and can't see it because of a plastic panel behind it. I then found there was no power at the control either.

I do not know where the power is suppoed to come from. It just so happens I have a 1988 wiring and troubleshooting manual but of course the 1995 is not the same and there is no junction block under the hood that supplied power to the control then.
One more thing I should explain here is last March I had my shop burn down and lost all my tools and over $80,000 in 50 years of accumulation so I have no place to work inside and spring is not helpful as it is April and it snowed last night. I made an appointment last week to take the truck to a place that specializes in electrical work. I am 75 years old and just cannot deal with this anymore.

All wiring diagrams on the Internet are too small and cannot be enlarged and are so fuzzy you cannot read them or I can't and for some reason there are no collors to the wires anyway. This truck has been a money pit so far as I bought it at an on-line auction knowing it might have a blown head gasket and it is a diesel. Yes it did and that alone cost me over $3500 parts and labor to fix and I now have over $10,000 in a 27 year old truchk with 106,000 miles on it.

Any ideas would be welcomed but now a little late maybe. I did hear there is a fusable link somewhere but don't know where that could be.
I thought I was the only one that couldn't see schematics on the internet. Do you ever get a magnifying glass and look at the screen?
 
@546cowboy welcome to TTS. I had a similar problem on my 97 recently. Turned out to be that the ground wire was bad. They are weak to begin with. @dbrannon79 sent me a diagram and also @Jaryd has helped with such.. jaryd isn't online very often but I can call or tx him and ask if he can send them to you or I. There's other guys on here that are really good at electric problems just be patient and one of them will log on and see your post...
Tomorrow I'll take pics on mine where I have to fix wires so you can see where I'm talking about.
 
This gets complicated. Last winter the blower stopped working in my 1995 GMC K-3500 Dually so I reached over at the bottom of the dash and wiggled the wire harness under the glove box area. The blower came back on now this happened several times before one day it did not start. I thought about that for awhile and figured it could be that rubber connector on the blower motor so I got a new one and you guessed it that didn't work.

So close but you missed the Technical Reference library. The connector mentioned above is shown in link below as well as the one year only unreliable 1995 control head with likely a bad fan switch that IS replaceable as a separate switch. Check the connector first then shotgun a blower switch at it.

 
I keep forgettin about all of those stickies.
There is a whole lotta infurmashun in that section.
Well worth reading those. Learn what can cause the 6.5 to destroy itself and what simple steps can be made to avoid that process.
 
Looks like everyone covered all the issues for the blower haha! Welcome to the forum @546cowboy, lots of knowledgeable folks here to help you out. use your test light and check if the blower has a ground. there should be a wire with an eyelet bolted to the motor housing going to the dash or body of the cab. also the how wire on the "rubber" connector on the motor, follow that up behind the glove box and you'll find a single spade connector inline that notoriously melts from the inside out. pull it apart and check it. I ended up cutting mine out and splicing the wires. further in on that same wire (pull the glove box out) you will see a relay mounted on top of the duct housing next to the blower resistor connector. that relay can go bad as well as the resistor. things to look for is when the resistor goes bad, you will still have high fan but nothing else, and vice versa when the relay goes bad.

if you still have no power to the fan motor, I would suspect the blower fan switch that is mounted on the back side of the ac controls. check the connector to see if there is a pin or two looks like it got hot. with the key on and all ac controls off, the blower will always spin on very low speed. this is how these trucks are wired.
 
95% chance the blower motor resistor is toast.
under $15 for the cheaper ones and about $25 for made in USA.
If you have smaller hands it isn’t too bad. Larger hands is worse but still should be done in 2 hours.

View attachment 73934View attachment 73935
Sometimes you have to call the wife or kids in for support. I was having trouble and whoever helped me did it effortlessly. And they were even able to get their hand back out again.

I found my 1/4" drive battery ratchet handy for that job.

Also used my little cheapo 1/4" bit holder ratchet.

I always install a ground from the ground to the dash mount bolt just inches away.

The connector frequently overheats and damaged the wires and connector. GM is frequently undersized on it's wiring. It actually would not be a bad spot to install an inline fuse.

The overheated wiring is often an indicator of a bad but still working fan.
 
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