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Block heater woes.

hookedup50

hookedup50

Active Member
Messages
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Location
MA
Like title says. This is a never used heater and new cord. I plugged it in and it does not work. I removed the plug from heater itself and reinstalled it to no avail. It is well past warrantee and not wasting time calling Walt, as that was my first mistake. I did not know better at time. I am going to source a new plug as well as unit. Checking with Leroy first then the usual vendors. I also have interest in oil pan heater as well. Can I get by with pan heater only or should still have hot coolant. Also Ive seen coolant heaters in line on hoses. Is this a better alternative or just another place to have leaks. Thanks in advance. I get about 3 weeks of -18F mornings mid january. What is the low temp I should be plugging in at for easy starts? In the past 20 degrees would cause hard starts, but I have upgraded glow wires and battery cables from Bruce(great products). Gonna install Duratherms as I have AC delcos now. Thanks in advance.
 
Have you checked the heater itself for continuity? You can get glue on oil pan heaters but I wouldn't use that as the main heater. In line heaters also called tank heaters work pretty good. They come in lots of diff wattages. Bigger translates to less time needed to be plugged in.

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk
 
I am gonna check with a meter after this roadtrip. What should a good reading be ot am ZI just checking continuity? Thank you AK, your goodies arrived according to my email. Hope it didn't freeze, seems to have gone on boat from WA to AK.
 
Basically it will have continuity or not. If the stuff arrived my wife might have picked it up as I'm out of town right now.

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk
 
After replacing my engine, I ditched the block/coolant heater. I have one of the biggest glue on oil pan heaters that will fit the 6.5. Here in WA the temp can get down to freezing in the winter, but it is usually just a week or two out of the month. It seemed to work fine this last year, as we had 2 weeks that dipped down to 20 degrees F. I dont know how well it would work out in colder climates. It does use alot less electricity over the block heater.
 
I'm gonna order a pan heater as I like the idea of warm oil on startup. I wish someone made a block heater that lasted more than 2 winters. This one hasn't even been used. Will know more when I check continuity.
 
My new block heater didn't last a month. Zero Ohms at the plug, Zero at the heater itself. Screw it, I now have an oil pan heater for this winter
 
Block heater worked fine on mine for the past two winters (since I bought the truck), pulled the rated 600W, and heated the block ~40* over two hours, but it was obviously fairly new when I got the Burb; only issue was that it tripped a GFCI circuit but Ok on a standard circuit.

If I really wanted to do an optimal pre-heat system, I'd go with both the coolant and fluids like (IIRC) AK has on his rig. Even better yet, build a heated garage :hihi:
 
I have an oil pan heater now going into it's 5th winter. Also have battery blanket/warmer on each battery. Starts like a charm (knock on wood) and it gets plenty cold here. Just sayin'.

Art
 
hey all , i have a 2000 chevy k2500 6.5 and i was wondering what the heater i have would be? i am pretty sure it is a stock heater. thanks
 
Had a big discusssion on this, and I started plugging mine in at 5 deg C, made a huge difference and now with freezing temps, she fires right up and heat within a few blocks, totally worth it.

3500GMC said:
You need heat in the cylinders to fire off a cold diesel.
Click to expand...


Which is what a block heater does.
 
The NAPA unit works nicely and truck fires right up. The other new one never worked ans just another reminder not to ever buy anything from Walt. I would not have an issue if I didnt have to change the coolant with 4 thousand miles on it. I don't reuse coolant.
 
turbovanman said:
Had a big discusssion on this, and I started plugging mine in at 5 deg C, made a huge difference and now with freezing temps, she fires right up and heat within a few blocks, totally worth it.




Which is what a block heater does.
Click to expand...

Umm, yeah. My thoughts were one of, cylinders first, oil second and trans third, in the pecking order for extreme cold and heaters. I guess cold is a relative term.
 
My plan is to cut a three inch hole on top of the intake manifold extension and shove a burning rag in there while my son cranks, that'll fire the cold hearted bitch up
 
A burning rag. Better tie it with a wire. Unless your mill likes the taste of shop rags. :D In a pinch, a heat gun into the compressor housing will do a decent job. Ether bad, bad, bad on IDI..
 
3500GMC said:
Umm, yeah. My thoughts were one of, cylinders first, oil second and trans third, in the pecking order for extreme cold and heaters. I guess cold is a relative term.
Click to expand...

Guess it depends where you live? We are at -8 or so deg C, without wind chill, cold enough for me, some people I know are battling -30 and colder degs C, that's too much for me, lol. :rof:

Didn't plug mine in today, bugger to start, had to use a quick shot of ether.
 
new cord had on ebay, something like "ecaronline" for the seller. genuine GM supposedly, I got a brand new copy of whats on the truck allready, with a good cord end of course. :) cost 20 something. 26 or 27?

Gm dealer will sell the whole setup cheaper than the bare cord. last one I got, got the cord and heater and everything for 50 or so, cord from GM themselves was like 60 :O

so if you need it all, go to GM, if you just need a cord, hit ebay.

good luck!
 
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