• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Block filler recommended?

SnowDrift

SnowDrift

Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Messages
3,051
Reaction score
3,775
Location
Central Ohio map dot
I've been trying to find information to educate myself on block filler to see if I would like to go that route on my rebuild. It sounds like a good idea to stiffen the block and possibly help to overcome some inherent weaknesses. I see where it looks to be used on race engines and such, where there is only a short time frame of running, but on any forums that came up in a search it doesn't seem to have much popularity for daily drivers. What is the opinion of those who have used it or researched it for use on 6.5s?
 
Last edited:
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
The loss of a block heater kind of sucks. I'm glad there are alternatives. Kat's shows a flow type heater, too
katsblockheater.com

Circulating Coolant Heater 1000 Watt 120 Volt

Circulation engine heater, 1000 watt 120 volt, designed to preheat engine coolant. Eliminates cold start damage.
katsblockheater.com katsblockheater.com

With the reduction in coolant volume, is there sufficient coolant for heat in the heater core or is that compromised as well? Even on cold days, I would have heat by the time I got to the end of our driveway and by the time I got to a 15 minute away destination, the air was probably as warm as I've felt from any hair dryer.

Does anyone on here whether using a filled block or not have any experience with an alternate style heater? I believe Les has a pad on his pan, but I think that is supplemental and a guy would still want to heat the coolant somehow.
 
Well the build I posted 5-6 years ago I did it and we went to IL in late November temps were near 0 for the 2 weeks, it fired up and had plenty of heat and starting the motor it though it was summer time. The thread is here somewhere.
 
You can add external coolant heaters- remember it is the precup and the cylinders you are needing to be hot to fire. Putting the heaters in the block on one side- that heats both side because of the water resting in the water pump conducts the heat tk the other side. So having the water heated before the waterpump is not a big deal. You definitely want to heat it as close to the pump as possible- some heat gets lost to the radiator.

The one that goes in the heater hose line- doesn’t feed the heat well to the engine for us as much as the lower radiator hose- and definitely do not use it on top radiator hose- the thermostat hinders the heat flow and most all the heat will just go to radiator.

Another possibility but not as efficient is using air intake heaters like cummins has. But being di instead of idi- that system doesn’t work as good for us.
 
I know it will start if I need it to even when it's been cold and sitting for an extended period of time, but I prefer the idea of having help if needed. If I have a bad burner or two and don't find out about it until the day I need to move it, it could be the difference between doing what I need to do and waiting until a warmer day. I guess I just don't want to limit my options.

With the fill, is there such thing as a strength gain with simply not pouring as much filler in to where the water jacket is only narrowed rather than completely filled?
 
SnowDrift said:
I know it will start if I need it to even when it's been cold and sitting for an extended period of time, but I prefer the idea of having help if needed. If I have a bad burner or two and don't find out about it until the day I need to move it, it could be the difference between doing what I need to do and waiting until a warmer day. I guess I just don't want to limit my options.

With the fill, is there such thing as a strength gain with simply not pouring as much filler in to where the water jacket is only narrowed rather than completely filled?
Click to expand...

Doubtful, there is 6 1/2" from top of the deck to the bottom of the coolant passage. the bottom of the freeze plug is
1 1/2" from the bottom, the top is about 3 1/4" from the bottom, the highest point that can be filled is the bottom water pump bolt location, so my short fill is 3 1/2" up from the bottom that is more than half of the actual cylinder length.

And the bottom of the block is thin in stock form. It's fielders choice....

072.JPG
073.JPG
074.JPG
 
The circulating tank heater seems to be popular for the older tractor community. Lots of guys using them on 4020 Deere tractors. Does anyone here have one set up on their truck?

DieselAmateur, what will you plan to use for a block heater? You guys are probably about as cold as we are in the winter.
 
You'll find that you'll get hot air out of the heater much faster with the block filled because there's a smaller volume of coolant to heat up, so it heats quicker. As for external block heaters, have always had good results with the type that splices into the lower radiator hose over the many years, from tractors on our farm and my parents' Trailways bus conversion motorhome with the Detroit 6-71 to my '84 Audi 5000 Turbo Diesel. The nice thing is that the warmed coolant flows through the water pump and into the block passage(s), whether an in-line or V engine, very evenly.
 
Thanks. Still considering it, but just not sure. It's so very permanent and if I decide I am not pleased with it, there is nothing that can be done about it, less replacing the block and starting all over again.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top