JMJNet
Recruit
IIRC, the non ACDelco t-stat also behaves erratically or not correctly. Non ACDelco does not open and close at the right time, hence, it does not work.
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Big list of things
- Thread starter swany211501
- Start date
Crankme69
New Member
I would remove the T stat and heater hoses and over flow hose the expansion tank & flush each both directions for starters, along with removing the upper radiator hose from the T stat housing to flush out the motor & also the radiator from the bottom up & then from the top down also flush the heater core separately. Ya may need to get creative with plugs or a way to stop & direct the flow to eliminate bypassing a section due to the water wanting to take the easiest path of least resistance...
My main concern here is using my city water...here where I am located, the city water is harder then a honeymoon dick. So with my situation I am more prone to use a flush additive circulate it & then drain it & call it good.
Like I said in my previous post, I have already had one bad experience changing out antifreeze in my V6 so I am not real eager to start fudging around with this again, though I would feel better with it at least mine being changed out...
HTH's
I am not sure what to do about my water supply being so hard?
racedaymechanic
Member
Move to NC we have very Soft Water
buddy
Active Member
I am not sure if 1996 had dual T-Stat? It still had low flow pump and old rectangle air box too.
I changed mine from Dexcool to water and water wetter. Although when it burped I added a little green stuff.
I do not like Dexcool, if you dont keep it clean its crap, dont put anything in it, like stop leak, and make for sure you use only distilled water if adding water alone. It was ridiculous the sludge it made in my Z28, I changed it out for green too, and probably do have a headgasket leak, but is that a pro for dexcool that it helps cause headgasket leaks. There was sludge in my 94 6.5 C1500 as well, so made the decision when I added coolant after the flush it was going to be green.
I will still only use distilled water in my vehicles unless an emergency case. I only have about 10% antifreeze, since the only benefit above water wetter is the not freezing part and it lowers cooling efficiency. Although several of you are in the sub zero temps.
I changed mine from Dexcool to water and water wetter. Although when it burped I added a little green stuff.
I do not like Dexcool, if you dont keep it clean its crap, dont put anything in it, like stop leak, and make for sure you use only distilled water if adding water alone. It was ridiculous the sludge it made in my Z28, I changed it out for green too, and probably do have a headgasket leak, but is that a pro for dexcool that it helps cause headgasket leaks. There was sludge in my 94 6.5 C1500 as well, so made the decision when I added coolant after the flush it was going to be green.
I will still only use distilled water in my vehicles unless an emergency case. I only have about 10% antifreeze, since the only benefit above water wetter is the not freezing part and it lowers cooling efficiency. Although several of you are in the sub zero temps.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
late 96s had dual stats
Paveltolz
Доверяй, но проверяй
FWIW, my 96 has the single T-Stat set up. Dex Cool. Flush every two years. Failed to burp the system once and won't forget that step again.
- Staff
- #27
Some do, some don't (dual tstats) ...
As long as you maintain the system, neither Dex or Green will sludge, corrode, or cause you grief; lots of people just love Dex, although it was problematic in a small range of engines. I know the 3.4 was one. They seem to have fixed it, though, as lots of people still use it with no problems. Mixing the two is a very bad idea.
Given that the OP is Canadian, NOT running antifreeze isn't an option. I'm curious, though - why do you say that antifreeze "lowers cooling efficiency"? It lowers freezing point, raises boiling point, and increases the heat-carrying capacity above wither straight antifreeze or straight water; maybe I've been looking at this wrong.
As long as you maintain the system, neither Dex or Green will sludge, corrode, or cause you grief; lots of people just love Dex, although it was problematic in a small range of engines. I know the 3.4 was one. They seem to have fixed it, though, as lots of people still use it with no problems. Mixing the two is a very bad idea.
Given that the OP is Canadian, NOT running antifreeze isn't an option. I'm curious, though - why do you say that antifreeze "lowers cooling efficiency"? It lowers freezing point, raises boiling point, and increases the heat-carrying capacity above wither straight antifreeze or straight water; maybe I've been looking at this wrong.
zielinski.family
Member
Has anyone heard of running an anti freeze filter on their trucks. I have a friend who has one on how 7.3 powerstroke.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
the big rigs have something I'm not sure how much filtering it does but it has some pellets that slowly dissolve to keep the ph in check
zielinski.family
Member
Is the ph level a point of major concern on the 6.5's ?
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
my understanding is that is one of the main reasons for changing it. I've never changed the antifreeze on a rig in my life and never had any antifreeze related issues. Could be alot of variables ie, water used,temps it's run at, etc
buddy
Active Member
Antifreeze lowers cooling efficiency of water, water alone is more efficient. Any contaminant to pure water will increase its boiling point, but the higher pressure mainly keeps it from boiling. The less antifreeze the more heat you can carry away from the engine. you still need lubrication additive and anti-corossion, which is what the water wetter provides, in place of the antifreeze mix.
- Staff
- #33
To buddy: Well, I'll be darned; antifreeze/water mix has higher heat-carrying-capacity, increasing the ability of the mix to absorb heat - there's a term for it, can't remember right now - and my thermodynamics prof told me that was why it made for a more efficient coolant.
Of course, that was 30 yrs ago. Maybe the thermo laws have changed since then. All I know is we ran glycol/water in all of our compressors in the summers to keep them from boiling over.
As I recall, phase change and cavitation were the big reasons. That's also supposed to be why Evans' Waterless coolant works to prevent overheating. Hmmm.
You may be right, though - at the very least, I'm thinking. Need to do more research...
Of course, that was 30 yrs ago. Maybe the thermo laws have changed since then. All I know is we ran glycol/water in all of our compressors in the summers to keep them from boiling over.
As I recall, phase change and cavitation were the big reasons. That's also supposed to be why Evans' Waterless coolant works to prevent overheating. Hmmm.
You may be right, though - at the very least, I'm thinking. Need to do more research...
- Staff
- #34
AK: absolutely correct on the acidity issue. One of the big problems with Dex-cool in the early applications was the design of the cooling systems; it would heat up, expand into the overflow, and get pulled back in, mixing with air in the process. The oxidation would cause it to acidify, which reacts badly with aluminum and head gaskets.
The newer cooling systems are expansion-tanks; very little air gets in, the compounds are more stable because of that. The OAT base antifreeze compounds (Ford, Dodge) had the very same problems.
Better living through chemistry.
The newer cooling systems are expansion-tanks; very little air gets in, the compounds are more stable because of that. The OAT base antifreeze compounds (Ford, Dodge) had the very same problems.
Better living through chemistry.
swany211501
New Member
The only reason I'm actually doing anything with this is I'm not sure about the competency of my block heater as well as I need to change my ECT. So what the hell, change out some heater hoses change all the band clamps and call it a day. Hard time deciding on what to run with though. Regular or Dexcool.
This is a great thread though. Love the input. Thanks fellas.
This is a great thread though. Love the input. Thanks fellas.
buddy
Active Member
Your first statement is in fact incorrect. You can look up the specific heat capacity of H2O is like 4.2 and ethylene glycol is like 2.2 and here is a handy little chart to see how the mixtures compare. http://homepage.usask.ca/~llr130/physics/HeatCapcityOfAntiFreeze.html
A 50% solution is used because its good to -30F, but it only raises the boiling point of the solution by like 12F, whereas under pressure of 15psi over atmospheric it raises boiling point of water close to 40F.
The ethylene glycol can help localized boiling, surface tension and what not, but the water wetter also covers that.
- Staff
- #37
Well, I THOUGHT I remembered it right... thanks for making me doubt my memory.
I went and looked it up; the term is colligative. means that the mixture has different properties than either fluid separately; drives the freezing pt down (below either) while elevating the boiling pt (above either). The mixture can depress freezing to -38*f and raise boiling pt to +265*f (@15 psi)
And you're very correct about the c-value for water, thanks. I think maybe what I was remembering is the volume of mixture has to increase to carry the same amount of heat; made sense once I found the compensation table.
Something else interesting I found is that once water starts to phase shift and cavitate, it turns into an insulator and can cause point superheating. Ugh. That isn't good for things.
Also found a good document about all this - attached.
I went and looked it up; the term is colligative. means that the mixture has different properties than either fluid separately; drives the freezing pt down (below either) while elevating the boiling pt (above either). The mixture can depress freezing to -38*f and raise boiling pt to +265*f (@15 psi)
And you're very correct about the c-value for water, thanks. I think maybe what I was remembering is the volume of mixture has to increase to carry the same amount of heat; made sense once I found the compensation table.
Something else interesting I found is that once water starts to phase shift and cavitate, it turns into an insulator and can cause point superheating. Ugh. That isn't good for things.
Also found a good document about all this - attached.
buddy
Active Member
I didn't want anybody thinking dumping in more antifreeze in the summer would help them towing. When in fact if towing in the warmer areas/months you would be well served by emptying the radiator and putting in only distilled water and a bottle of water wetter or Red Line or one of those types of things. Then you still have some anti-freeze in the block with that water, but much more efficient cooling with the system under pressure it wont boil until over 250F, even without antifreeze. Hopefully we wouldnt be going over 210F for more than a minute anyway.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
I switched to green 30,000 miles ago when my head had to come off.
That was 120,000miles, with factory WP, and now it has 150,000mi with green A/F and factory WP. So I noticed a fseemless transition other than now its green, like A/F should be
That was 120,000miles, with factory WP, and now it has 150,000mi with green A/F and factory WP. So I noticed a fseemless transition other than now its green, like A/F should be
swany211501
New Member
I hit my big list yesterday. Never got to changing my antifreeze. I got other things done. Changed the oil cooler lines. 1/2" ID hydraulic hoses 3500 psi heat rated. WAAAAAAAAAAY overkill. I didn't quite expect these buggers to be so big, but none the less, they worked. While I was doing this, I remounted my PMD heatsink on the top license plate bracket bolt. The lower one was conflicting with the cooler line. Once I get all my pictures uploaded I'll add more, make a new thread, something. I'm still on the hunt for the lame starts. Made a glow plug override switch. 20 bucks total. ECT fooler. Pre-wired my switches for high idle as Mauser is retarded slow for shipping. Still trying to figure out which is better. Dexcool or regular. I see Prestone makes a "mixes with ANYTHING" coolant (so says the jug).
Oh, this is funny. I take the plastic skid plate off, see its slathered with oil and basically ignore it. I was going to wash it but the washbay is broke at the shop so I tossed it in the back of the truck but before I toss it in there I notice a good sized pile of grease/oil on the pan that I didn't notice before. I tap the skid plate on the ground and it doesn't budge so I grab a banana knife and go to scrape it off, as I get closer, I notice it's a mouse lol!!! Dead, completely covered in oil. I laughed then I thought, where are your friends you little bugger lol.
Oh, this is funny. I take the plastic skid plate off, see its slathered with oil and basically ignore it. I was going to wash it but the washbay is broke at the shop so I tossed it in the back of the truck but before I toss it in there I notice a good sized pile of grease/oil on the pan that I didn't notice before. I tap the skid plate on the ground and it doesn't budge so I grab a banana knife and go to scrape it off, as I get closer, I notice it's a mouse lol!!! Dead, completely covered in oil. I laughed then I thought, where are your friends you little bugger lol.