wyattearp
Member
Does anyone know what kind of turbo's will fit on a Banks RH exhaust manifold other than Banks? Like the ATT!
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Banks Exhaust Manifold
- Thread starter wyattearp
- Start date
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
Any turbo with a T3 flange will work, just like the att, the GMx turbos and the turbo i run, An HX40II.
Do you have plans of using that manifold? Perhaps you might be interested in selling it?
Do you have plans of using that manifold? Perhaps you might be interested in selling it?
wyattearp
Member
My story is I am doing a frame off restoration on a 1985 Chevy K30 CrewCab. The frame has just been recently painted. I am getting some push to put a Cummins in it versus a GM 6.5. MY worry with the Cummins repower is the unintended consequences of something that it did not come from the factory with, ie. Dodge bellhousing, dodge input shaft on a GM NV4500, making it all fit, needing a body lift to make it all fit, etc. The 73-85 Chevy trucks has an HVAC box that projects into the engine bay that would interfere with the stock exhaust turbo manifold. By the way, my project came without and engine or transmission. The truck will be a daily driver with occasional towing of a boat or hauling firewood out of the mountains. Maybe a cabover camper. I would like to get 250 reliable hp out of the GM without worrying. I am following 6.5L "ATT" thread closely. And it needs to be all mechanical in this truck
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
As much as I like my 6.5, at the same time a 12v cummins swap dont sound like a bad idea. If my motor ever blows i think i would attempt a cummins swap.
Good luck with your build
Good luck with your build
buddy
Active Member
The 6.5 can make 250hp reliably, not a problem with the right build and hardware. Make sure to get the right mechanical DB2, 4911 has the larger plungers I believe. The 5.9L is heavier, longer and taller I think.
uniquediesel
1/4 mi. Fan
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I'd look at a Holset for use on the Banks Manifold in an 80's truck. The only thing you'll need is a 1/2" T3 spacer on the manifold where the turbo bolts just to give you a little more room between the compressor housing on the turbo and the alternator, also allows proper alignment with the oil drain tube used on the T04B turbo that comes with the Banks turbo setup.
jhornsby3
Active Member
Your still kicking that cummins thing? I thought you ditched that idea and was going to keep it right. Don't let those "C" word guys talk you into it. They are just wanting to get every GM owner to give up on a great product.
It's a conspiericy, man! Their out to get you, for sure, man!
It's a conspiericy, man! Their out to get you, for sure, man!
Last fall I did what you are talking about. I run a holset hx35w on a banks manifold setup on an 85 with a 95 style serpentine setup. This isnt plug and play although there was not as much fabbing as you may think. Because of my OCD I didnt want to cut off the compressor outlet flange on my turbo to run a silicone boot. This v-band flange is specific in size to holset turbos at just under 3 inches. I bought a spendy weldable flange from a custom diesel shop on the east cost and welded it to my banks intake pipe.
I also had to modify the boost pressure wastegate valve and convert it to a spring operated wastegate. The angle which the 80's model banks manifold puts the turbo at doesnt allow for clearance of the pressure pot on the factory controller. A angled t3 spacer may alleviate this?
Another thing to think about is that the 80's style banks kit puts the turbo pretty close to the radiator. IIRC there is like 5 inches of clearance. I bought a "Cobra" elbow to get the proper radius in such a short distance to hook into my airbox.
If you are lucky enough to have the banks downpipe you can simply cut off the banks flange and weld on a standard v-band flange to mate to the holset turbo. It is hard to beat the banks downpipe design for the tight quarters between the frame and engine.
This is a pretty easy and mild fabbing job if you have access and the know how to run a welder.
Another note is depending if you decided to run a spacer on the manifold or not, There is very little clearance to access the turbo mounting studs. It will make your life much much easier to remove the inner fender.
The truck drives great with the HX35W. Power is good and so is the responsiveness. My work on it has ground to a standstill however due to house repairs sucking up all my time and funds.
I also had to modify the boost pressure wastegate valve and convert it to a spring operated wastegate. The angle which the 80's model banks manifold puts the turbo at doesnt allow for clearance of the pressure pot on the factory controller. A angled t3 spacer may alleviate this?
Another thing to think about is that the 80's style banks kit puts the turbo pretty close to the radiator. IIRC there is like 5 inches of clearance. I bought a "Cobra" elbow to get the proper radius in such a short distance to hook into my airbox.
If you are lucky enough to have the banks downpipe you can simply cut off the banks flange and weld on a standard v-band flange to mate to the holset turbo. It is hard to beat the banks downpipe design for the tight quarters between the frame and engine.
This is a pretty easy and mild fabbing job if you have access and the know how to run a welder.
Another note is depending if you decided to run a spacer on the manifold or not, There is very little clearance to access the turbo mounting studs. It will make your life much much easier to remove the inner fender.
The truck drives great with the HX35W. Power is good and so is the responsiveness. My work on it has ground to a standstill however due to house repairs sucking up all my time and funds.
Jorge6.5
Well-Known Member
Pics of that sure would be great to see
sshewins
Jesus Freak
X2 on a few pics, but the info is very welcome. Fallout, did your mileage improve? Did you retain the stock 6.2 precups (and 6.2 heads)?
I will try and get pics posted this weekend. Had a very hectic couple of weeks at work. Mileage improvement is hard to say havnt really messed with tracking it since after the swap as i had been trying to get my fueling set right and was doing alot of full tilt runs checking egts. My welded oil pan started leaking and winter happened and need to pull off the pan and either fix or replace before i put too many more miles on it. i swapped in a lowered around 19-20 cr gep 6.5 i bought from a govt auction the heads are late 2000 ish 6.5 heads with i believe the square precups. i would have to check my rebuild notes.
red
Being a lake bum in Texas
If you're still on the fence about which swap to go with heres some recommendations with the cummins build (if you go that way, it is more expensive by far).
1. to clear your ac box flip the exhaust manifold upside down so that the turbo is sitting up high, gives you a couple inches of clearance and everything still bolts up. The exhaust downpipe clearance can be improved by setting the engine lower into the frame.
2. get the cummins as low into the frame as possible
3. If going 5 speed use a 98+ gm nv4500 with a dodge input shaft/bellhousing.
getting the cummins in is the easy part, if you go with a 97-dodge nv4500 and want to keep your np205 it is hell getting the parts and people want a fortune for them. Heres a link to the photo album from when I was putting a 12 valve into my 87 cclb http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z277/redhead1987/diesel conversion/ I've since decided to go with a 6.5 instead, doesn't have the nightmare drivetrain issues, discontinued parts, and people wanting fortunes for those parts.
1. to clear your ac box flip the exhaust manifold upside down so that the turbo is sitting up high, gives you a couple inches of clearance and everything still bolts up. The exhaust downpipe clearance can be improved by setting the engine lower into the frame.
2. get the cummins as low into the frame as possible
3. If going 5 speed use a 98+ gm nv4500 with a dodge input shaft/bellhousing.
getting the cummins in is the easy part, if you go with a 97-dodge nv4500 and want to keep your np205 it is hell getting the parts and people want a fortune for them. Heres a link to the photo album from when I was putting a 12 valve into my 87 cclb http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z277/redhead1987/diesel conversion/ I've since decided to go with a 6.5 instead, doesn't have the nightmare drivetrain issues, discontinued parts, and people wanting fortunes for those parts.