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ATT on a ford?

Without a camshaft designed for turbo use it may not do so well on anything, and a supercharger would be more beneficial. On ours, the N/A diesels used the same cam as the turbo ones. And perhaps the 7.3 Ford diesel is similar. Would be good to figure that out.
 
5akman said:
Matt,
I'm not sure! When it comes to towing reasonably heavy, 7K+, in steep hills, in the 100+ degree northern CA summer heat. The 6.5L has not performed nearly as strong as the old indirect injected Ford. I'm not complaining, just stating the results of road tests pulling the same trailer up the hills with the same outside temps. I'll keep working over the 6.5l in an attempt to conquer at least one hurdle, either the cooling (so I don't have to turn off the AC and run the heater when towing up hill) or getting the power so that I'm not at 25mph at the top of the same grade that had the 7.3 doing 65!

I had both with the Ford and was hoping I can get the same out of the Chevy.

L
Click to expand...

You know, the issue may just well be stock programming. I can't imagine that if your rig is running correctly, that once you get the good turbo on that your rig won't pull circles around that old 7.3.

Good luck!
 
You really cant count on the stock programming to pull much of anything. That is the weak point in the whole system. Your old Ford wasnt limiting itself, that was its strong point.

Amazing when you let loose the reins from the PCM how the added power seems to solve cooling issues, seeing as you can run more fuel at lower RPMs (for more torque), and faster speeds for better cooling.

Having a good tune can help all around with a well running system, although it can also provide you the capability of nuking the engine when the cooling system is not working and youre not paying attention to it or respecting it.
 
I have a Heath ECM in my 99 which is my trailer towing rig, still wasn't impressed with the power or over heating situtation. Perhaps after the ATT, injector, and cross over pipe install things will look up. I'll pull the radiator again to do a thorough cleaning......

Lance
 
Simple fan clutch mod.

Mandrel bent xover and downpipe are basically must do modificaitons, and not just for power adder, but power restorer. 3.5" pipe should be OK. ATT does add a lot of grunt under load.

If you have the extra remote oil cooler it will help a lot since oil pulls off block heat just like water.

And if your Heath tune is more than a couple years old I might call him and see if you can get it refreshed because you aren't happy with it. His more recent tunes may be better, seeing as he has done a lot of tweaking for his actual race truck.
 
Lance, what is your timing set at? I am running Bills' old tune, Max-E-Tork, and am still impressed with the power. When I put it in, the difference was night and day. As a case in point, with the stock tune and my 18' trailer loaded down with the wife's car, I struggled to top Fancy Gap pass in VA at 35mph, overheating and all. With the new tune, the same run loaded in the same configuration, I topped the grade at about 55-60 mph and coolant temperature's were about 210*. Not cool, but holding her own.

BTW - do not rely on the factory temp. gauge for accuracy. I was running a laptop and Car Code at the time to monitor engine vitals from the PCM.
 
I still have the stock timing as I don't have the gadget to set it! I believe that could be part of the issue regarding power/over heating. If I were to do it myself, which way do I turn the injector pump and how far? I guess I'd just scribe a line on the pump and mounting flange for reference?

Lance
 
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