ATT & FRC-10 Install

[Burning oil]

Go to Matress Giant I know they have new beds :kidding:

I'd be looking for a new bed though, by the time you fix that you will have been able to buy a new one and probably painted to.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

I would agree with another bed, they are cheaper than fixing the old one....

 

[Jorge6.5]

Any updates on the fuel pump install?

 

[bigdaddyinacaddy]

Any updates on the fuel pump install?

Not yet. Sorry to disappoint. My truck has been in the shop since Thursday originally to just get tires swapped but they found some problems with my front end (ball joints and left hub and left axle seal, had problems finding seals that would fit or some bs, hard to find good work in this town!!) long story short it will probably be Monday or Tuesday before I get my truck back. It's goin back on stock tires so hopefully I will get a little bump in pull, cause these tires are HEAVY.

Again, sorry this has been so drug out. I did not intend for it to be this way. Trust me this pump is goin on the truck as soon as I get it back, sick of seeing the box :hihi:

 

[bigdaddyinacaddy]

BFH = Big F'in Hammer

Oh durrr..

6-1/2 years old + showing "OK tread" (ie less than average mileage / wear) = Toast in my book. For grins I'd still check for a recall.

While 6.5 years seems like a long time they were in a shed for the better part of those years right up to the day I bought them, they were and still are fine tires, just don't have the money to buy a matching one @ $400 a pop right now..

Not sure but most tire company warranty it up to 5 years.

You can try but I think you may have passed the limit but you can always ask them first.
Who knows, may be the offer lifetime warranty to the original owner.

Thanks for the info. Honestly not worth the trouble. I did contact mickey Thompson and asked them if their tires completely slinging the treads off was a normal occurrence, if so I was never buying from them again.

Go to Matress Giant I know they have new beds :kidding:

I'd be looking for a new bed though, by the time you fix that you will have been able to buy a new one and probably painted to.

I would agree with another bed, they are cheaper than fixing the old one....

Well I'm not really tripping over the bed anymore. I got on lmc and the patch panel is like $60. Bed panel is $400. Do you think the body work will really be more than a new bedside w/ paint? It's not REALLY a big deal consider in how old the truck is but I'd rather not let the body go to crap since it is still in pretty good shape. And plus I'm kind-of doing a little restoration here & there. She's my baby, if you would have seen what a wreck the suspension & driveline was in when I got it, well let's just say its came a long way. I'm still getting seals replaced even though I've already changed every other one including transfer case, transmission, and rear axle and every single bushing I could get my hands on, u-joints, complete front end rebuild, new rancho 9000xl shocks on front 7000mt's on the back. Freakin money pit but I love the truck. If there was just a way I could get it back to factory spec and get it to quit eating ball joints.

 

[bigdaddyinacaddy]

BFH = Big F'in Hammer

Oh durrr..

6-1/2 years old + showing "OK tread" (ie less than average mileage / wear) = Toast in my book. For grins I'd still check for a recall.

While 6.5 years seems like a long time they were in a shed for the better part of those years right up to the day I bought them, they were and still are fine tires, just don't have the money to buy a matching one @ $400 a pop right now..

Not sure but most tire company warranty it up to 5 years.

You can try but I think you may have passed the limit but you can always ask them first.
Who knows, may be the offer lifetime warranty to the original owner.

Thanks for the info. Honestly not worth the trouble. I did contact mickey Thompson and asked them if their tires completely slinging the treads off was a normal occurrence, if so I was never buying from them again.

Go to Matress Giant I know they have new beds :kidding:

I'd be looking for a new bed though, by the time you fix that you will have been able to buy a new one and probably painted to.

I would agree with another bed, they are cheaper than fixing the old one....

Well I'm not really tripping over the bed anymore. I got on lmc and the patch panel is like $60. Bed panel is $400. Do you think the body work will really be more than a new bedside w/ paint? It's not REALLY a big deal consider in how old the truck is but I'd rather not let the body go to crap since it is still in pretty good shape. And plus I'm kind-of doing a little restoration here & there. She's my baby, if you would have seen what a wreck the suspension & driveline was in when I got it, well let's just say its came a long way. I'm still getting seals replaced even though I've already changed every other one including transfer case, transmission, and rear axle and every single bushing I could get my hands on, u-joints, complete front end rebuild, new rancho 9000xl shocks on front 7000mt's on the back. Freakin money pit but I love the truck. If there was just a way I could get it back to factory spec and get it to quit eating ball joints.

 

[Slim Shady]

Oh durrr..

While 6.5 years seems like a long time they were in a shed for the better part of those years right up to the day I bought them, they were and still are fine tires, just don't have the money to buy a matching one @ $400 a pop right now..

Thanks for the info. Honestly not worth the trouble. I did contact mickey Thompson and asked them if their tires completely slinging the treads off was a normal occurrence, if so I was never buying from them again.





Well I'm not really tripping over the bed anymore. I got on lmc and the patch panel is like $60. Bed panel is $400. Do you think the body work will really be more than a new bedside w/ paint? It's not REALLY a big deal consider in how old the truck is but I'd rather not let the body go to crap since it is still in pretty good shape. And plus I'm kind-of doing a little restoration here & there. She's my baby, if you would have seen what a wreck the suspension & driveline was in when I got it, well let's just say its came a long way. I'm still getting seals replaced even though I've already changed every other one including transfer case, transmission, and rear axle and every single bushing I could get my hands on, u-joints, complete front end rebuild, new rancho 9000xl shocks on front 7000mt's on the back. Freakin money pit but I love the truck. If there was just a way I could get it back to factory spec and get it to quit eating ball joints.

You may want to check your caster camber settings. I had to completely open up my caster camber slots to get the tires to stop killing the outer edge, and that cleared up the wearing front end parts, like the idler arm steering gear pitman arm, and tie rod ends. Have to do bushings now. anyone have any experience with the nylon bushings? I don't want a lot of vibration transfer to the frame from hard nylon bushings, that is what I am looking to find out.

 

[bigdaddyinacaddy]

You may want to check your caster camber settings. I had to completely open up my caster camber slots to get the tires to stop killing the outer edge, and that cleared up the wearing front end parts, like the idler arm steering gear pitman arm, and tie rod ends. Have to do bushings now. anyone have any experience with the nylon bushings? I don't want a lot of vibration transfer to the frame from hard nylon bushings, that is what I am looking to find out.

Nylon is harder than poly I believe. Nylon would be better in bushings that move alot like control arms because it doesn't bind. Polyurethane by itself will bind but that's why they put graphite in it as a lube. People say poly squeaks but I haven't had any problems with that so far. Poly is good for things that don't really move, sway bar bushings, bump stops, body pucks, etc. I got my entire front end rebuild kit for $350 from performancesuspension.com with polygraphite bushings.

Now that you mention camber/caster I remember it was off even after I got my truck aligned after the rebuild. It was towards the inside though, opposite of yours. Mine keeps ruining upper ball joints cause of the angle. I "fixed" the camber by cranking the t-bars up a few turns, which is why I keep having to replace ball joints. How did you adjust your camber the right way?

 

[WarWagon]

I am running the energy suspension black poly bushings in the front end on the 1993 and 1995. I love them for keeping the tire wear even and cornering. Roads are almost dirt with the condition and... well it still rides like a 3/4 ton truck. There wasn't a 1/2 MM difference across the last set of tires I wore out on the 1993.

I think they handle better IMO.

 

[bigdaddyinacaddy]

I am running the energy suspension black poly bushings in the front end on the 1993 and 1995. I love them for keeping the tire wear even and cornering. Roads are almost dirt with the condition and... well it still rides like a 3/4 ton truck. There wasn't a 1/2 MM difference across the last set of tires I wore out on the 1993.

I think they handle better IMO.

Yea they definitely handle better than the squishy feeling oe rubber stuff. I know how you feel though, most of our roads around here are dirt or gravel. My truck rides fairly good, I haven't gotten a chance to drive it since I got new shocks on stock tires, 6 ply mud tires are hard and stiff and definitely not the most forgiving. Compared to other 1/2 tons I've driven you can definitely tell that the 6.5ers are a good bit heavier on the front end. Anybody else's tires on the front look kinda low even with good air pressure from the extra weight?

 

[Edzzed]

I don't know how I missed this thread as I too have an ATT. On the egt's, I have seen 1400 but that was towing a trailer. I don't recall what the highest unloaded is but I'd say 1100 and I also have a Heath tune. I did talk to Bill about a year or two ago about altering the programming on my ecm but left it as is even though he told me he would not charge me for it. Once I get my water injection issue sorted out (pump or controller) I doubt I'll be able to hit 1300 loaded. I do know, You don't want to be near my exhaust when I am towing and stopped at a light. I can shoot black smoke out and have seen people run to get out of the way.

 

[Slim Shady]

Nylon is harder than poly I believe. Nylon would be better in bushings that move alot like control arms because it doesn't bind. Polyurethane by itself will bind but that's why they put graphite in it as a lube. People say poly squeaks but I haven't had any problems with that so far. Poly is good for things that don't really move, sway bar bushings, bump stops, body pucks, etc. I got my entire front end rebuild kit for $350 from performancesuspension.com with polygraphite bushings.

Now that you mention camber/caster I remember it was off even after I got my truck aligned after the rebuild. It was towards the inside though, opposite of yours. Mine keeps ruining upper ball joints cause of the angle. I "fixed" the camber by cranking the t-bars up a few turns, which is why I keep having to replace ball joints. How did you adjust your camber the right way?

I did camber with a level bar I had made years ago when I did alignments with a tape measure and fixed bars on a rod. That was how we were taught, so that we could do a wheel alignment without the machine. So far I like my trucks steering much better it drives straight and true and tire wear is even across the tread.

 

[bigdaddyinacaddy]

I don't know how I missed this thread as I too have an ATT. On the egt's, I have seen 1400 but that was towing a trailer. I don't recall what the highest unloaded is but I'd say 1100 and I also have a Heath tune. I did talk to Bill about a year or two ago about altering the programming on my ecm but left it as is even though he told me he would not charge me for it. Once I get my water injection issue sorted out (pump or controller) I doubt I'll be able to hit 1300 loaded. I do know, You don't want to be near my exhaust when I am towing and stopped at a light. I can shoot black smoke out and have seen people run to get out of the way.

Got my issues with the egt sorted out fairly quickly, now they are way down but will still climb on a good long wot pull to about 1200-1300. Highest they ever got with the air filter issue was 1350 and that was maxxed out goin as a fast as I could go given the road. They would just climb so fast I knew something was wrong.

I did camber with a level bar I had made years ago when I did alignments with a tape measure and fixed bars on a rod. That was how we were taught, so that we could do a wheel alignment without the machine. So far I like my trucks steering much better it drives straight and true and tire wear is even across the tread.

Nice man. Old school. I may be able to work on my own engine but in 3 years of high school automotive class and a nice trip to Dearborn, Michigan in 2009 for the ford/aaa student auto skills competition there are 2 things I never really learned about and that's suspension and automatic transmissions. All I was taught about suspensions is the basic principles of a rack & pinion system and that you pretty much need the machine to do an alignment, and almost nothing about how the inside of an auto trans works. It's all good though that was almost 3 years ago and I now know 10x more than I ever did in high school automotive class, even though I will be the first to admit that I'm wrong more times than I'm right, but hey that's what TTS is for!!