• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Anyone run an oil bypass setup in a 6.5?

jrsavoie said:
I quit going through the cap because I didn't like the mess from the residual dribble when the cap was removed. Or the residual dribble when the truck was started with the cap removed.
Click to expand...
The valve would help alot, but you will still get drips. Not bad, but I'll probably do the return through the filler neck on my own POV
 
I have experience with toilet paper, but not as a filter:sick:

Seems like it could do a good job. I would be afraid of wood fibers coming off the paper though. The only thing holding any possible trash getting though is a screen that supports the toilet paper. My wife hates it when I clean my glasses with toilet paper because it scratches the lens. Im not sold on what they say about droping toilet paper in water and then it not coming apart. I think it would actualy disintegrate making a pulp. Maybe its that pulp that makes a good filter, but then again all you have is a sceen to hold back the pulp.
Other than that it seems like a good therory. Maybe Im totally wrong here, Im just going off what I see.
 
that's true with water but it reacts differently when exposed to water. there's another brand I've been looking at with the same idea
 
Its in oil and under pressure so maybe its not a consearn at all? The heart of the filter seems to be the size and area of the screen holding the paper.
 
Burning oil said:
I have experience with toilet paper, but not as a filter:sick:

Seems like it could do a good job. I would be afraid of wood fibers coming off the paper though. The only thing holding any possible trash getting though is a screen that supports the toilet paper. My wife hates it when I clean my glasses with toilet paper because it scratches the lens. Im not sold on what they say about droping toilet paper in water and then it not coming apart. I think it would actualy disintegrate making a pulp. Maybe its that pulp that makes a good filter, but then again all you have is a sceen to hold back the pulp.
Other than that it seems like a good therory. Maybe Im totally wrong here, Im just going off what I see.
Click to expand...

I think it would work fine, in my search's, that came up and the consensus is it works. As for dropping TP in the toilet, it just sits there, kinda swells up but doesn't unravel or come apart. I have kids, ask me how I know, :( The only one that will fall apart is the biodegradable stuff for RV's and boats.
 
ak diesel driver said:
that's true with water but it reacts differently when exposed to water. there's another brand I've been looking at with the same idea
Click to expand...

I think that those would be harder to get being over the pond and all.

The Frantz filters have been around for a long time. Even though they don't make it very clear, they are used as bypass filters.

The TP that they use is that single ply paper that is very tough. Thankfully it is the cheapest you can buy.
 
Pretty well have all my parts together except the base. I had one here I bought for my F250 coolant filtration, checked it, wrong threads so I'll make an adapter to use the smaller 5/8 filter thread. Local filter company didn't have the Baldwin B164 but had a LF alternative, that should add about another quart to my engine.
 
IMO make sure the bypass filter is a different thread than your full flow so you don't accidentaly swap them = BAD!
 
Burning oil said:
IMO make sure the bypass filter is a different thread than your full flow so you don't accidentaly swap them = BAD!
Click to expand...

It is, the bypass uses 5/8x18, coolant base is 3/8x18, I have an AN fitting and 3/8 thread's that will work with some grinding. Saves me buying a base which I can't get for 1-2 weeks, grrr.
 
Burning oil said:
IMO make sure the bypass filter is a different thread than your full flow so you don't accidentally swap them = BAD!
Click to expand...

Can't really see where using a regular filter in place of the bypass would cause any issues. The restriction is in the line heading to the filter. So what filter you put on really would not matter. You would not be accomplishing much with a standard filter other than adding volume>

The same reason, I think this statement is incorrect. The orifice is in front of the filter. The exit side is line size and does not have an orifice.
"The TP will never get past the orifice, which is about .042" or around that size."
 
jrsavoie said:
Can't really see where using a regular filter in place of the bypass would cause any issues. The restriction is in the line heading to the filter. So what filter you put on really would not matter. You would not be accomplishing much with a standard filter other than adding volume>

The same reason, I think this statement is incorrect. The orifice is in front of the filter. The exit side is line size and does not have an orifice.
"The TP will never get past the orifice, which is about .042" or around that size."
Click to expand...

The orifice in the Baldwin filter is in the center hole, where the threads are, so the return in my case.

I read on the FAQ about the concern of the TP being pushed into the engine and that's what they say, so on their kits, the orifice must be on the return side.

The way bypass filters are made, you could and would most likely do engine damage as they are designed to filter slowly and have no internal bypass, so if it gets plugged, the oil will slow down, maybe stopped enough to do damage or maybe the filter could explode?
 
turbovanman said:
The orifice in the Baldwin filter is in the center hole, where the threads are, so the return in my case.

I read on the FAQ about the concern of the TP being pushed into the engine and that's what they say, so on their kits, the orifice must be on the return side.

The way bypass filters are made, you could and would most likely do engine damage as they are designed to filter slowly and have no internal bypass, so if it gets plugged, the oil will slow down, maybe stopped enough to do damage or maybe the filter could explode?
Click to expand...

You are quite right on the orifice location.

I do not think there is an issue for plugging, unless you had a dedicated pump without a pressure regulator feeding the filter. My filters are all fed from a normally closed system. Either the engine oil cooler line which I tee into for bypass filter supply or from the oil journal plug in the block by the engine oil cooler lines. Which would both be the same effect as going to the OPS. The OPS is also normally plugged, so even if you stuck a ball valve on the line feeding the filter, it would have no ill effects.

If you ever generated enough oil pressure to explode a filter, I believe you would have other issues to worry about first
 
Seeing that this has nothing to do with 6.5 performance, it has been moved to maintenance. This is for longevity, not performance. ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top