• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Anyone live in NC?

truck stalls wait 3 mins n will start back up WTS light aint coming on and lift pump dont run less you wait 3 mins then the WTS will flash n it will start im sick of working on it
 
it's down on the lower column and is quite spendy. I've read quite a few threads with this being the problem on the later year trucks. try jiggling the key on and off a few times and see if it helps
 
There is a method to bypass it in your previous thread to show that the ign switch is the issue. Very common problem, and the bypass would take about 30 minutes to find wire, crimp terminals, and fuse taps and wire it up. You have a power or ground problem, so you could remedy each with your own wiring.
 
I took the fender off and wheel well and found the ground on the frame and found it was really dirty so i took it off cleaned it and sanded it with some sand paper, put it back together, went up to where it comes out on the intake and found that it worked its way loose again so i took it loose and cleaned it the best i could i started hearing somthing driping and i guess where the ground is bolted its some kind of fuel pate or somthing but anyways i got it all back together started it up let it idle for about 10 mins, then i took a 20 min trip to get fuel and came back and it didnt cut off so i dont know maybe just maybe, But im not getting my hopes up just yet. Also seems like my glows are running longer but i havent drove the truck in like 3 weeks so maybe its just me.....
 
The ground is on a coolant block off plate, just like where the tstat crossover is bolted down on the the front of the block.

After all the calls to TD and the posts about this gnds and this one had you cleaned and tightened this one before and it came loose again? Might need to move it to another stud.
 
buddy said:
The ground is on a coolant block off plate, just like where the tstat crossover is bolted down on the the front of the block.

After all the calls to TD and the posts about this gnds and this one had you cleaned and tightened this one before and it came loose again? Might need to move it to another stud.
Click to expand...

I did the top part of it by the intake but i didnt do the one on the frame last time and yeah it did work loose on top but i cant get it off cuz the tanny dip stick is bolted on the same bolt and it wont come off less theres a trick i dont know

Would this ground being loose make it do what its doing?
 
You can pull up and bend the tranny hold down strap to get the wires off. That or cut them and put new ends on.
 
on my 94 the dipstick tube pulled out of the tranny (I wasn't trying too) I just pushed it back in it's an oring seal.
 
FYI....In jrsavoie's thread about the WTS ghost, I had mentioned that I had been Ghost FREE for about 1 1/2 yrs.

The other day it got so bad I couldn't keep the rig running for more that 3 blocks...

Sure enough, I'd climb up on my push plate and wiggle the 2 (black) grounds that come out of the harness at the rear stud location.....One wire is thicker than the other and they are both on separate eyelets....Also the SES light was dim and flickering and the STS light didn't even come on, only if the WTS light decided to flash.

Now to look at them, you'd never tell they were any problem that could be associated with them, (But from experience, I know better).....shook and limped back to get some tools at a friends, took the nut off and removed the 2 grounds from the stud.

The wire, eyelets, and crimp were all tight and looked fine.......Now that I inspected the wires and connections, I proceeded to wire brush the Stud, eyelets, and the nut to a spectacular shiny polished aluminum finish, reconnected the 2 grounds and tightened them down......Guess what it's been since last Thurs and not a WTS ghost in sight.

FYI-BTW.....I didn't even touch the 2 that are bolted to the tranny dipstick.

2 Cents......Take from my experience what you like.......I've been a WTS ghost victim since way back in the D Place days when GMCTD said "Clean your grounds!"
 
Which one?............also what is the thicker wire and the thinner one? Lastly, what are the two evenly gauged wires that are grounded to the Tranny dip stck bolt/tab?

Specific apps please......maybe found in a Helms service manual?

Just curious.
 
Ok well the ground worked its way loose again so i got the tranny dip stick off and moved the grounds to where the fuel filter bolts in and they seem alot better there, i started the truck and she puffed alittle white smoke and then went away real fast then i stomped on the gas and alot of black smoke came out and ive never seen really any black from this truck.

But i tryed puting the dip stick back in and down by the tranny there is a rubber seal that will not go back in, the only way i could see if going back in is if i take it off the dip stick tube and put it in the tranny hole and then put the tube in, BUT there is no way to get the tranny dip stick tube out to remove the rubber seal

any ideas?

It dont leak but i dont like it like that
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top