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Antifreeze question?

Cool, I'm curious to see this in pictures too!!

Just thinking... wouldn't a ball valve with 90 degree travel be an advantage over the valve shown? Quicker to open/close, but also give a quick visual that valves are in correct operating positions.

I suspect we'll have to be very carefull with heater plumbing on our Suburban conversion project. I've noticed a few related threads that indicate the importance. To avoid any issues though, we have attempted to sourced the tee or wye fittings from GM for a '99 6.5L 1500 Suburban. But, you know how that can sometimes go?
 
So is the filter the restriction that keeps it from being full flow or is it the valve not being opened all the way?
 
Ball valves would do the trick too. I guess there's a million ways you could plumb this- whatever is to your liking, I guess.

As far as they bypass part, since the coolant flows to the heater core(s) and filter simultaneously, I would presume that would make it a bypass. If you forced all the coolant to go through filter than the heater core(s) it would be full flow. I could be completely wrong on this point.

I initially had all the flow from the water pump go to filter, but I believe the 3/8" orifice and filter provides too much restriction to allow adequate flow to the rear heater core. In a truck without a rear core, a direct flow provides adequate heat, but when the filter fills up, the heat will go away. Plumbed as shown in the diagram, the heat will always work regardless of filter efficiency. I judge flow based on the heat difference between the input and output houses of the filter. Not precise, but adequate indication of coolant flow.
 
Somehow I missed the diagram and pictures with last post. Just never mind. I'm still not sure exactly how this is plumbed... On the diagram, where the two blue lines cross, I suspect this is really made up with two tee's right? One tee you added, the other original for splitting to rear heat. It would also make sense that the filter outlet would be tee'd into the radiator side of the return line for maximum pressure drop needed to get the filter flow. Pehaps the majority of the flow takes the path of least resistance, thru heater core(s). But as you've seen evidence that the filter has trapped material, it is certainly flowing. So, I'm caught up to AK's questions, do you need the valves to keep the heater(s) working?"
 
I think the valves are mainly for filter changes so you don't lose alot of coolant. The reason for my ? is most bypass systems use a restricted feed so as not to affect the original system. Valves seem like they could be used to restrict coolant flow to get desired flow.
 
I put the valves at the filter to minimize the coolant loss during filter changes. I figured the 3/4 to 3/8 reduction and subsequent filtration would probably meet the restriction requirement. But I suppose through valves position you could "dial in" your flow.
I keep forgetting that not everyone has a '98 suburban with dual heat. I'm interested in knowing if there are differences in other years and models. I thought they all used 3/4" hose for all heater plumbing. Is that true?
 
Mine has become 3/4" now all the way from the x-over to the tee.

So essentially, you put another tee before the stock tee to the input and after the stock tee for return.
 
Suprisingly yes. I was cautiously expecting mediocre results, but it seems better than I imagined. Over the years, I've tried many coolant solutions and some were OK, some not. I got stories, as they said in Hawaii.
RMI-25 isn't a coolant solution, but a parts saver.
 
I too, am skeptically optimistic about additives. Most times I research them thoroughly and find out they are not what they claim, so whenever I actually talk to someone who has some knowledge and experience with a product- I pick their brain.
Ever used a leak sealer called "K-Seal"?
Just stumbled across that one the other day...
And if you add a filter, let me know how it works out on your truck. Thanks.
 
Tend to agree, but every once in a while you get a pesky little coolant drip and it's usually when you don't have the time/money/or space to tear out half the engine compartment to change out the offensive part or gasket.

I never found anyone that actually saved a head gasket job with a bottle of "stuff".
Not saying it never happens, I just never met the lucky recipient!!
 
My experience with sealers led to a plugged heater core, what made it maddening was it was only 6 months old.
 
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