Another broken crankshaft - I'm gonna cry.

[96 OILBURNER]

I looked through my records and it was bought in October 2004. Crank & matching bearings were $220.

Was that the same time frame as the cheap China import cranks? I don't know and metalurgists, but I would certainly be willing to send a chunk off to someone as long as it didn't cost too much$$.

I may be wrong and his rebuilder can get some good deals, but I don't think you could lay your hands on a OEM crank for $220. Not around here anyway.

 

[JiFaire]

Well I just picked up a "remanufactured" 6.2 from a trip to IN. It is in a VERY HEAVY military crate and has obviously never been installed in anything. It was remanufactured by UNICON out of Beaumont TX and has a tag on the block listing all of the specs. Not a bad deal for $500.

Sweet deal, Shawn! That's a great find!

I am debating with dad about if I should put it in “as-is” as in a complete assembled 6.2, or tear it apart and stick on my 6.5 stuff.

From what I am reading so far, a 6.2 is fine for a daily driver, but if you tow much (I do) then I probably wouldn’t be happy.

FWIW, I think you should go with the original plan and put the 6.5 goodies on it. You're gonna be pulling, so you will want the power and torque.

I can post pics if anybody is interested.

Yes, please!

 

[SnowDrift]

Just read through this, Shawn. Bum deal, bro! Sounds like you got a good thing going, though with the spare you got ahold of. If you need a hand with anything or get in a pinch, let me know - I'm not far away and I haven't been over that way for a while.

 

[ShawnR]

Teardown & pics

I pulled my dead motor yesterday and started tearing down the 6.2 today. The garage is "heated", but that just means that it is warmer than outside. It is still below freezing even in the shop.

The 6.2 is interesting because the craigslist posting said in the crate. Here is a pic of the crate. I would put it at around 400 lbs.

Here is the motor itself.

Does anybody know what this thing is? It is on the front of the fan pulley.

Here is the sticker that is on the side of the block.

Here is the biggest crack in my block. It is in the webbing looking towards the rear.

So far it looks like it should be pretty easy to do. The water pumps look different, but the connections all seem to be in the same spot.

I will be listing all of the 6.2 parts if anyone is interested.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Which injectors do you have to use?

 

[ShawnR]

Which injectors do you have to use?

I am going to use the ones out of my old motor. They are supposedly marine injectors with only about 8K miles on them. I put them in 2 years ago.

The only things I am using off of the 6.2 are block, crank & pistons. It appears that water pump & timing gears are the same also. I haven't decided about those yet if I will pull mine off of the 6.5 or use the ones form the 6.2.

 

[NVW]

I am going to use the ones out of my old motor. They are supposedly marine injectors with only about 8K miles on them. I put them in 2 years ago.

The only things I am using off of the 6.2 are block, crank & pistons. It appears that water pump & timing gears are the same also. I haven't decided about those yet if I will pull mine off of the 6.5 or use the ones form the 6.2.

You might want to search but I'm not sure if the WP rotation is the same on a 6.2 & 6.5. Leo

 

[midniteplowboyy]

Thats a hydraulic fan clutch used on the HMMWV's, it takes around 100psi+ to release(disengauge)it. Just hook shop air to it(1/8" pipe threads) to align the bolt holes for removal.

You need a different water pump for your 6.5 setup, that one fits the older style 6.2 standard rotation, get a HO pump if you buy new.

If you trust there rebuild job, just put your IP, injectors, manifolds, water pump and oil pan on it.

Swap oil filter adaptors also, the hummers used a ford filter IIRC(I can get you the P/N if you need it).

 

[96 OILBURNER]

It would also be a good idea to check the oil pan. It looks like that engine is the Hummer setup, and the pan won't have the clearance needed in your truck IIRC.

 

[Michaeljp86]

Id put the hydraulic fan clutch on ebay, thats probably worth a chunk of $.

 

[ShawnR]

You need a different water pump for your 6.5 setup, that one fits the older style 6.2 standard rotation, get a HO pump if you buy new.

If you trust there rebuild job, just put your IP, injectors, manifolds, water pump and oil pan on it.

I was planning on using my 6.5 heads on it and using head studs. Would there be any advantage to just keeping the 6.2 heads? I thought I read something about threads on the injectors being different.

Here are close ups of the water pumps.

6.2 one

My current 6.5 one. I will replace with new instead of transfer over.

Anybody have a part number for a H.O. water pump? Autozone didn't list more than one option.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Ask for one for a 97 or 98 k3500. Those years have the 130.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

aren't the 6.2 injectors the short body?

 

[Michaeljp86]

aren't the 6.2 injectors the short body?

I thought those were just on vans

 

[Missy Good Wench]

The detailed pix of that crank definately indicate that the casting was Garbage.

The factory cranks are OK Butt I would certainly look at a Scat crank.

Ratman and I have conversed over these things many times.

A forged crank would be sweet in the engine, but they are spendy.

Get the Scat unit.

I would recommend having the rotating assembly ballanced with the flex plate, ballancer and drive pulley installed.

Be sure to witness mark the pulley (just because)
If either the pulley or the ballancer rubber looks hinky, Replace them!!!

Best

MGW

 

[midniteplowboyy]

I was planning on using my 6.5 heads on it and using head studs. Would there be any advantage to just keeping the 6.2 heads? I thought I read something about threads on the injectors being different.

Here are close ups of the water pumps.

6.2 one

My current 6.5 one. I will replace with new instead of transfer over.

Anybody have a part number for a H.O. water pump? Autozone didn't list more than one option.

There wouldn't be any advantage to the 6.2 heads, I was just saying, you could run it that way since it was all put together already. If you wanted to you could remove one head bolt at a time and install your studs. I'd check the casting numbers on the heads, they may already be 6.5 heads, could even be AMG heads since its a rebuild and it looks like it has the AMG water pump.

The 1982 6.2injectors had different threads, think they were pipe threads but could be wrong. As long as it is 83 or newer, your 6.5 short injectors will fit.

Look at the difference in diameter where the impeller is, it looks like the 6.2 pump is about an inch bigger, to bad its the wrong rotation, its prolly a 130 gph pump it just turns the wrong way.


Ask for a water pump for a 98 model.

 

[RadioMan]

If you wanted to you could remove one head bolt at a time and install your studs.

That's an interesting statement...
Is this an OK procedure - Experts?
I've never done it that way - I always remove all of the head bolts (in the reverse sequence that they were put on) and then put the studs in - torquing them in sequence. Have I been wasting my time? It kinda sounds like a good idea, I really just don't know...

 

[ShawnR]

There wouldn't be any advantage to the 6.2 heads, I was just saying, you could run it that way since it was all put together already. If you wanted to you could remove one head bolt at a time and install your studs. I'd check the casting numbers on the heads, they may already be 6.5 heads, could even be AMG heads since its a rebuild and it looks like it has the AMG water pump.

Well crap, if I would have know that I could use the 6.2 heads, I would probably already have it back in the truck. I wouldn't have even broken the seal. Here is the block with the studs installed in the current state.

So, do I use the "remanufactured" 6.2 heads that look to be brand spankin' new? or do I put in the 6.5 heads? How do I tell anything about the heads I pulled off by the casting numbers? If they are 6.5's, then it is a no-brainer.

This is important because I was planning on putting the heads on first thing in the morning. I am torn as to which way to do it.

Opnions please!

 

[Bullseye240]

Use the new 6.2 heads and be glad you pulled them off to install the studs and got a look inside to see that everything was indeed new or reman.

 

[Slim Shady]

Well crap, if I would have know that I could use the 6.2 heads, I would probably already have it back in the truck. I wouldn't have even broken the seal. Here is the block with the studs installed in the current state.

So, do I use the "remanufactured" 6.2 heads that look to be brand spankin' new? or do I put in the 6.5 heads? How do I tell anything about the heads I pulled off by the casting numbers? If they are 6.5's, then it is a no-brainer.

This is important because I was planning on putting the heads on first thing in the morning. I am torn as to which way to do it.

Opnions please!

The 6.2 heads will give you better fuel economy, and you will never notice the little difference in the 6.5 larger pre cup holes. Use the 6.5 injectors and lines. The little 6.2 that is now 6.3 liters because of the .40 over size pistons will be just fine.