and the ticking continues....

[iamdave0887]

rrr:

Still haven't gotten rid of the damn engine tick in my blazer. It's still running and save for the few times a cylinder has dropped dead for about 10 seconds and then cleared up, nothing's gotten worse.

Oil pressure when warm ~25 psi. When cold at idle it's ~45-50. That's going by the factory gauge.

I ran the engine with the intake off and the driver's valve cover removed to see if i could see anything abnormal. I can't see anything, but i do get a strange noise when it's running. Almost sounds like a popping sound.

Here's the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iqpb_1AWhw0

I've got no idea what it is, but i'm out of ideas. Possible burnt valve?

A buddy of mine swapped the #5 intake lifter as it was noisy, yet there was no change in my ticking.

I"m ready to rip this engine right out and drop another in. Really getting tired of this wild goose chase.

Tomorrow i'll be pulling the passenger side valve cover. I've never had it off, and by the looks of things, it's never been removed. If i can't find anything i'm going to put it back together and run it until it blows, or the body and frame are no longer on speaking terms....again.

 

[ak diesel driver]

sounds like an exhaust leak right at the manifold. I guess it could be an exhaust valve leaking into the manifold.

 

[iamdave0887]

That sound goes away once i install the intake though. My guess is it's coming form the EGR ports. If it was coming form an intake port you'd still hear it "through" the intake manifold I'd think.

I do suppose open EGR ports can be considered an exhaust leak, but it sounds almost under pressure, like a leak at an exhaust manifold would sound like.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Yeah it would have to be an exhaust valve or you'd hear it in the intake. It's really obvious on a carbed gasser

 

[Missy Good Wench]

The popping noise is likely from the exhaust ports that feed the EGR

The ticking you hear is hard to get a feel for in this video.

Is it running at cam speed or crank speed ?? If all seems well in the area of the rockers and such, it may be an injector thats noisy.

6.5 TD's can have a nasty bunch of clicking on some engines and it echos through the turbo heat shield.

The 6.2 nomally is fairly quiet..

Just make sure that you dont have a lifter thats lost a roller. (roll the engine by hand and check each rocker for slop while the lifter is on the base circle of the cam)

Now, with a cylinder dropping off, this suggests that you may indeed have an injector thats getting flakey.

Might be a grand idea to yank the squirts out and have them tested.


Missy

 

[iamdave0887]

Hey Missy. The tick is a cam speed tick. If it was crank speed, I'd have quit driving it and probably ripped the engine out for a transplant by now as it's been ticking since november.

The old squirts were removed and replaced with brand new Bosch long injectors. Still no difference as it happened with both the old and new injectors.

Is that popping noise normal? Something tells me it isn't, but this is the first 6.x i've run with the entire intake removed.

I've yet to pull the passenger side valve cover. No time today. I'll have to get to it this weekend.

 

[iamdave0887]

Pulled the passenger side valve cover today. Nothing out of the ordinary under it. No sludge either. Motor's quite clean by the looks of the top end.

I don't know where to turn next. I was debating making a EGr block off plate that i could put over one EGR port at a time to see if i can narrow down which side that noise is coming from.

Any ideas guys and gal?

 

[WarWagon]

Possible a foreign object in the engine?

I had some glows blow in half on my 6.2 decades ago and stick in a valve for awhile.

Otherwise maybe a bad valve guide. Other things running at cam speed are the vac pump, fuel pump, and IP. Have you checked them out with a stethoscope?

 

[Acesneights1]

Did'nt you say your IP is having issues ??

 

[iamdave0887]

Yup the IP is off right now. 3,000 miles in and it's got some weird issue. The advance is sticking inwards, yet i took the advance assembly apart and the piston isn't sticking in the bore. There's slop in the face cam where it contacts the outside piston for the advance, yet the set screws not loose, so it didn't back out. In fact i can't turn the set screw at all.

No idea what's wrong with it, but i shouldn't have to tear into it with 3,000 miles and a year of service since it was rebuilt.

All the glowplugs are intact. None were busted when i pulled them out last week. None were busted ever actually. I've changed them twice. from the original 9G/11G mix(no ticking at the point of removal and no damaged GPs, although 2 were swollen), to an old set of 60Gs(was ticking by removal of these) but no GPs damaged, to the brand new duraterms(still ticking) that are in there now.

mech fuel pump is gone. electric is in it's place. vac pump, didn't think of that but i'll check it next time the engine's running. Ip could've been what was ticking, considering there's other issue with it. Can't tell as i don't have a replacement to install.

i did a comp check on the engine, while cold and i did 6 "puffs" on the tester like my book said. lowest cyl was 360-365 highest was 380. If i let the test go for 8 "puffs" the comp continued to climb and leveled at 390 or so. Regardless, the numbers aren't that far apart, and for an engine that's sat dormant and cold for a week, that's not that bad.

 

[Missy Good Wench]

The popping noise is pretty normal with the intake removed. You have two exhaust passages that are open, and this is where some of the noise comes from.

The open intake ports make noise to.

I am wondering if you have a lifter that has/is losing a roller (gone flat)

Keep us in the loop

Missy

 

[iamdave0887]

if it lost a roller wouldn't that cylinder have died completely by now as the cam lobe would've been more or less chewed off the cam? I've drove it daily all winter and put ~2,500 miles on it since this happened. I've done 3 oil changes in that time period. first change to 5w-40 Rotella T for winter, then SAE30 Rotella T around april/may, and now 15w-40 Rotella T, and there's maybe 5 miles on the current 15w-40 change. Both the SAE30 and 15w-40 have had a can of seafoam in the mix as well. Never found any metal in the oil.

Honestly i don't know anymore, and i somewhat have stopped searching for it, but i haven't stopped caring...yet anyways.

I'm actually in the middle of re-installing my IP as it seemed to have an issue, yet i don't have a replacement or a test bench, so i can't rule it out. I've got no other choice than to throw it back on and keep running it.

I"m also re-installing all the A/C parts as i believe i've finally found everything to make the system complete again. Hopefully i can make it work with the good 'ol R12 stash i've got here.

 

[WarWagon]

An oil sample can help with the lifter going flat suggestion.