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Alternator Question

NVW

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Can an alt. from a 97-98 work on a 95? They are a different model but are they inter-changeable?
 

1995yukon65

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I think I read somewhere that you can put a cs144 (96-99) alternator on a 95 but it requires modification to the brackets. Hopefully someone that has done this will chime in b/c I am interested in doing this also.
 

NVW

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My charge wire broke at the eyelet and touched the alt case, it's charging at about 16 1/2 volts now. I think the voltage reg. may be pooped.
 

WarWagon

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You burned out the fusiable link in the charge wire. You will have to fix it, however that saved the vehicle from burning to the ground.

Thanks for the CS144 info - just what the Dr. ordered and I need today.
 

NVW

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Thanks for the link Marty. The ones on my 97; 98 look different than Leroy's new alt. but the mount looks to be the same.

On a side note I don't have to change it right now, my battery in my meter was getting week and gave a false reading. It's charging at 14 1/2 volts.

We're going camping on Friday and I hate having to make repairs with short notice, there is enough other stuff that needs doing.

1995yukon65, thanks for the reply and now your question is also answered.
 

NVW

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You burned out the fusiable link in the charge wire. You will have to fix it, however that saved the vehicle from burning to the ground.

Thanks for the CS144 info - just what the Dr. ordered and I need today.
Actually the fusible link didn't fry, the wire itself burned off away from the fusible link. I just made a new wire out of 8 gauge. I'm just waiting on a 60 amp fuse to put inline.
 

NVW

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Thanks Louis, we just had a nice rain so I won't feel too guilty about not making hay.
 

fallout

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Actually the fusible link didn't fry, the wire itself burned off away from the fusible link. I just made a new wire out of 8 gauge. I'm just waiting on a 60 amp fuse to put inline.
Not trying to steer you away from an inline fuse just relaying my experience with them, Prior to swapping my 6.5 with serpentine in my 85 I had replaced my charge wire with a bigger gauge and an inline fuse. I would blow the fuse periodically, After some research it seems the current spikes with A/C headlights, etc that a fuse rated for the gauge of wire would still sometimes pop. Especially if the batteries had drained deeply and the alternator was trying to run the above and charge the batts on top of it. Fusible link can be had rather cheap and will actually allow for the spikes in amperage on the wire without blowing. I replaced the inline fuse with a section of smaller fuseable link (think it was 2 gauge sizes smaller) and didnt have a problem after that with that setup.

I know you already rectified your issue but for reference if your alternator ever craps out on you.

You can fit pretty much any Post SI Style gm style truck alternator in the 95's alt location. As stated you have to fab a new offset bracket to bolt to the tensioner pully, and most have to ditch the rear brace however the newer alt cases dont have provisions for the rear base and have more metal in the mounting ears. The brace I fabbed out of bar stock from home depot, a vice and a big hammer and drill bits

I was running into a tight spot with my motor swap and had an extra AD230 (smaller computer controlled alternator) from my 2001 chevy. The lower mounts are pretty much universal on the CS144 and newer AD230 and AD244 alts that come on the newer truck motors so I tried it not wanting to spend the coin on a CS144. Wiring was simple Bought a new pigtail and only had to supply key on voltage to the Regulator and a charge wire. Only issue I had was that the Body control module controls voltage on the AD230 unless the signal is not present (No BCM on an 85 Suburban) the voltage regulator fail safe defaults to 13.7 volts and try's to maintain it that. Does a good job most of the time unless there is alot of ancilliary load on the batteries.
 

NVW

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Not trying to steer you away from an inline fuse just relaying my experience with them, Prior to swapping my 6.5 with serpentine in my 85 I had replaced my charge wire with a bigger gauge and an inline fuse. I would blow the fuse periodically, After some research it seems the current spikes with A/C headlights, etc that a fuse rated for the gauge of wire would still sometimes pop. Especially if the batteries had drained deeply and the alternator was trying to run the above and charge the batts on top of it. Fusible link can be had rather cheap and will actually allow for the spikes in amperage on the wire without blowing. I replaced the inline fuse with a section of smaller fuseable link (think it was 2 gauge sizes smaller) and didnt have a problem after that with that setup.

I know you already rectified your issue but for reference if your alternator ever craps out on you.

You can fit pretty much any Post SI Style gm style truck alternator in the 95's alt location. As stated you have to fab a new offset bracket to bolt to the tensioner pully, and most have to ditch the rear brace however the newer alt cases dont have provisions for the rear base and have more metal in the mounting ears. The brace I fabbed out of bar stock from home depot, a vice and a big hammer and drill bits

I was running into a tight spot with my motor swap and had an extra AD230 (smaller computer controlled alternator) from my 2001 chevy. The lower mounts are pretty much universal on the CS144 and newer AD230 and AD244 alts that come on the newer truck motors so I tried it not wanting to spend the coin on a CS144. Wiring was simple Bought a new pigtail and only had to supply key on voltage to the Regulator and a charge wire. Only issue I had was that the Body control module controls voltage on the AD230 unless the signal is not present (No BCM on an 85 Suburban) the voltage regulator fail safe defaults to 13.7 volts and try's to maintain it that. Does a good job most of the time unless there is alot of ancilliary load on the batteries.
The fuse is a concern as they will just pop as you said, where as a fusible link will heat up first.
 

NVW

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My regulator is good, volt meter was reading wrong due to weak battery.

I work on all my alternators, some kid in a rebuild shop isn't going to check them out thoroughly.
 
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