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Alternator Charge Wire Reccommendations?

H

handcannon

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Albany, OR
I am upgrading my charging system. I've already replaced all the battery cables with bigger gauge wires. I just got a CS144 alt to replace the CS 130 that is acting like it has a blown diode (charging, but not like it should). Now I want to replace the 12V+ charge wire that goes from the alt to the battery with a bigger gauge wire.

My question:

When going to a bigger gauge charge wire and upgrading to a 140 amp alt from the 100 amp alt what do you do with the stock fusible link? Do you just re-use the fusible link? Or, do you go to a higher rated fusible link, and if so, what should be used? I have a tendancy to go into overkill mode when doing something like this, but I want no problems down the road.

Your ideas/reccommendations will be gladly accepted and taken into consideration.

Don
 
IRC - GM spec a 8ga for the high output. The stock output is 10ga.

When I added my second alternator, #2 has 8ga and a 125A Maxi fuse in line. If I ever go to dual CS140's the other side will get 8ga and a maxi fuse too.
 
Acesneights1 said:
With your dual alts do you have a/c as well ?
Click to expand...

Yes, I have install pics at the other place. I need to repost them here.

Here is one posted here that shows both alts and A/C:
attachment.php
 
My GM Shopping list: (courtesy of "The Page")
GM-10244209 Bracket, Belt Idler Pulley
GM-12556504 Pulley, Belt Idler (Dual Gen)
GM-15306009 Alternator Electrical Connector
GM-15721539 Support, Radiator Hose
(all of these parts were available 3 years ago - who knows now)
GM parts cost was about $150 IIRC

I bought the long Alt bolts from GM, but don't have those PN's, as with all GM hardware about $5 ea.

Bought a NEW 105A alternator at Napa, along with the Max Fuse, longer belt (listed as dual alternator about 120.8")



Pic's will be a day or two as I'm out of town.


The comments I'll make about the Dual Alternator setup.
Pro's-
  • I Love mine.
  • For the snow plow, I have plenty of current available to run the plow pump with NO worries of battery discharge.
  • Jump starts - It's great, along with my 0gauge jumper cables I have yet to fail in spinning any Farm Diesel engine.
  • If one alternator does fail, your not down.
  • Enough current to run a 2000W inverter at full load continuously with a high idle setup (I have a 3KW inverter to install some day)
Down falls -
  • A catastrophic short or battery failure can take BOTH alternators. (did this once)
  • The lead Alternator needs to feed the Tach, because the tach signal dies if the alternator turns completely off (one with the highest regulator voltage)
  • Upfront cost may be a wash (or higher) compared with a high output, until you loose a high output alt.
 
All these posts and only one that pertains directly to my question. This info about dual alts is interesting but doesn't help my question. Does anybody have any more info about fusible links?

jmiller, have you ever had the Maxi-fuse blow? I've read somewhere that the fuses tend to blow more often under spikes than the fusible links do.

Don
 
Rather than change the wire to a bigger one. I add another OEM wire from the alternator to the other battery. Mostly because it's fast and sleazy.

I did go with a bigger wire on a couple of my vehicles but always have trouble finding the correct sized fusible link.
 
Just throwing this out there, This is from a Dodge Service Manual

I'm assuming fusible links are NOT manufacturer specific.

A fusible link can be replaced with a wire of the same gauge:

Black-12 Ga

Red- 14 Ga

Dark Blue-16 Ga

Gray- 18 Ga

Orange-20 Ga

Light Green- 30 Ga
 
I NO comprende' any of that.

A fusible link is a fusible link. A wire is a wire.

Color of the wire has nothing to do with the gauge.

I can see where the proper sized wire could possibly be used for a fusable link but it would take some trial and error or good figuring to know what size wire to use in a given situation.

NVW said:
Just throwing this out there, This is from a Dodge Service Manual

I'm assuming fusible links are NOT manufacturer specific.

A fusible link can be replaced with a wire of the same gauge:

Black-12 Ga

Red- 14 Ga

Dark Blue-16 Ga

Gray- 18 Ga

Orange-20 Ga

Light Green- 30 Ga
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
I think the color of the fusible link determines it's gauge, ie: all black fusible links will be 12 Ga.
 
Here's a link to some FAQ on fusible links............. http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml


The catalog on the referenced link has fusible link wire from 22-8 ga. (plus some other cool connectors and stuff) John mentioned 8ga wire in his post above. They do not give any kind of amperage ratings on the cable, and they state that the fusible link should be no longer than 9". There's also a link to the SAE website.

Here's a couple questions to the group..........

Is the 130 amp alternator really capable of putting out 130 continous amps, or is there some kind of duty cycle at play, similar to a welder? How many amps does a vehicle pull when full electrical load is applied?
 
handcannon said:
All these posts and only one that pertains directly to my question. This info about dual alts is interesting but doesn't help my question. Does anybody have any more info about fusible links?

jmiller, have you ever had the Maxi-fuse blow? I've read somewhere that the fuses tend to blow more often under spikes than the fusible links do.

Don
Click to expand...

Not yet. I went 20% over rate. My thought was short protection. The alternator self limits its output.
I also took a lead from GM, they spec a max fuse in the high output alt option.

Need to add one for the other side. It is still 10ga and fuseable link.
 
dms4x4 said:
Here's a link to some FAQ on fusible links............. http://www.whiteproducts.com/fusible-faqs.shtml


The catalog on the referenced link has fusible link wire from 22-8 ga. (plus some other cool connectors and stuff) John mentioned 8ga wire in his post above. They do not give any kind of amperage ratings on the cable, and they state that the fusible link should be no longer than 9". There's also a link to the SAE website.

Here's a couple questions to the group..........

Is the 130 amp alternator really capable of putting out 130 continous amps, or is there some kind of duty cycle at play, similar to a welder? How many amps does a vehicle pull when full electrical load is applied?
Click to expand...

Great info on fusible links at that link. Thanks.

The fusible link should be 4 wire gauge sizes smaller than the rest of the wire and no more than 9" long. This is real good info.

I don't know about any duty cycle for alts. I don't think it's very long. The diodes are very fragile and easily blown and are what usually goes in an alt. Heat quickly kills diodes and high amp draws create heat very quickly. Trying to recharge a totally dead battery with the vehicle alt can blow the diodes.

There are add-on severe duty diode sets available. These sets seem to be made up of higher amp rated diodes and larger heat sinks for better cooling. They aren't cheap.

Don
 
jmiller said:
Not yet. I went 20% over rate. My thought was short protection. The alternator self limits its output.
I also took a lead from GM, they spec a max fuse in the high output alt option.

Need to add one for the other side. It is still 10ga and fuseable link.
Click to expand...

Do you know how much the high output alt put out? What was the max fuse they spec'd? I'm assuming this was for the 98 in your sig line.

Don
 
jmiller said:
handcannon said:
Do you know how much the high output alt put out? What was the max fuse they spec'd? I'm assuming this was for the 98 in your sig line.

Don
Click to expand...


Don't recall, But I'll look it up. Unless someone beats me to it.
Click to expand...

In the schematic for the 98, the stock wire gauge is #6 and enhanced is #4 wire, so I correct my earlier statement. The enhanced is for CS144.

The Maxi/Mega fuse is spec'd at 175A. Stock location is the radiator shroud, next to the Passenger side battery
 
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