Advice

[Dunedain15]

I was planning on a turbo, especially since it has a Conestoga IP in it. This one seems more ready to drive right now than the other, but that's without a test drive as well. Johnstown is 3 hours away, so it's a haul.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

A 1990 6.2 with a 700R4 trans, I would NOT turbo it as the 700R4 will NOT take the torque in a heavy rig for long. And to add rear air to it and make it work right will cost you rather big bucks. Your most likely looking at a new compressor, larger condenser, lines, and a rear evaporator setup added in. I imagine a kit would have to be pieced together, and could easily run you north of $2K if you have to pay a shop to do it(most add on single systems are running around that price installed, and this setup would be custom so figure higher). Also the 90 square body will not drive anywhere near as good as a GMT-400 does, and is going to be ALOT louder inside. I've been in some odler square bodies with 350's, and they were more than loud enough inside for me. Also of note it will probably have the oddball right hand drop NP-241 transfer case, and parts can be hard to find if something happens to it since it was only used for about 3 years IIRC. If you want a gas milage rig, it would be fine. But don't plan on towing with it much, getting anywhere fast, or upping the power output without doing some other work as well(like going to a 4L80E trans).

 

[Burning oil]

I'd buy the 96 myself. To much rust on the square body IMO.

 

[btfarm]

There will be an awful lot more rust you aren't seeing. Not just cosmetic either. That’s a $ pit.

 

[Dunedain15]

Well, you've just confirmed what I was feeling. I had all that stuff bouncing around in my head.

BTW, I just want to say how much I appreciate everybody here. Due to my inexperience, I don't feel like I contribute much, and you guys are still always really quick and helpful with your responses. Thanks, Gentlemen.

 

[btfarm]

If you come around often enough you never know when the thing that stuck in your head from some thread months ago is EXACTLY what somebody is asking about. And you were there to help out.

 

[WarWagon]

I understand that. If I had a garage of my own,I'd be all about that. Unfortunately, I'm always going to a buddy's garage when repairs come up. Also, this is the wife's daily driver, and, with 4 kids, it absolutely has to be reliable.

Frankly an old vehicle is not what you want for reliable. Two things that break stuff down is age and miles. These old vehicles have both. Making matters worse is the s#it replacement part quality nowadays making you frequently re-do repairs because some cheap part rebuilder didn't do their fing job - at all. Even the paint on some rebuilt parts is a bad flaking job.

Your idea of going cheap and rebuilding a vehicle is flawed IMO. Already done this twice. Frankly "patch" is a Rat Rod toy and the 1995 Suburban I couldn't keep out of my garage so I got rid of it. I have over $10G in fixing up patch and the right turn signal won't cancel, but, I'll take it anywhere on long trips. It's the constant little things like the seat frame breaking, horn brush jamming the steering wheel, door handles breaking/failing on 1995's... I got rid of it because of excessive hook use: fuel pump failures, power steering seals on pumps and boxes constantly failing... Use NEW PS pumps and boxes if you replace them or get it from a junkyard.

If I didn't do my own work these would have gone to the junkyard as:
1) No one works on 6.5's. (Really, really, really hard to find places that do.)
2) Labor costs would kill me.

Technology has changed especially in regards to AC compressor design. Taken GM years to drop the R4 and go to a decent compressor that works with R134A. Note that all rear air systems have a bigger (CFM) compressor than single air units.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Just a thought . . . Leave one of the kids home and get this: http://classiccarslist.com/chevrolet/31268-military-truck-m1009-cucv-chevy-blazer-nice.html