ABS question

[steelydan]

Driving home from Vancouver the other afternoon and my right front caliper locks up. It was smoking when I took my Wife into the Mcd's for a late lunch. (big spender eh) Used a screwdriver to free it up and drove home.
Replaced only the right side caliper with a reman and bled the brakes.
Pads were ok as I had changed them about a month ago. When I come to a stop now sometimes when it is wet my anti locks fire just for a second... my tires are well worn and will be replaced in a week or so.
ABS light comes on at start-up and goes out as it should. Does not come on any other time. Scanned for codes and no codes present.

Should I replace the drivers side caliper as well? I know these trucks are notorious for having over sensitive anti-lock brakes.

 

[DEERE3594]

If it were me, I would. I would also grease the slides

 

[guybb3]

Might want to replace the hoses too. I had an Impala that was acting like a sticking caliper and it turned out that the brake hose was collapsing internally and not letting the brake fliud return to the master, sometimes.

 

[Turbine Doc]

now would be a good time to replace with SSBC twin piston calipers

 

[DEERE3594]

Tim, Im slow... whats "SSBC"?

 

[steelydan]

now would be a good time to replace with SSBC twin piston calipers

Thanks for the idea but way more "quan"... I bought a reman caliper with new pins for the right side for $38.00 my cost...(that's $27.75 USD) I think I will replace the left as well. The US-CDN exchange rate does not favour us north of 49 right now. However I was thinking about a rear disc conversion with an ebrake on the driveshaft. Rear drums up here run $185 each OUCH..

 

[guybb3]

now would be a good time to replace with SSBC twin piston calipers

I don't think Stainless Steel Brakes makes a caliper for the subs, TurbineDoc. I could be wrong but I have been looking for a caliper upgrade for years. We have the 2500 brakes on the subs.

 

[Turbine Doc]

IIRC they recently added one to offerings, or maybe it was EGR brake, spendy item yes, but stop way more better than OEM

 

[Turbine Doc]

Tim, Im slow... whats "SSBC"?

Stainless Steel Brake Corporation

 

[Acesneights1]

Calipers should always be replaced in pairs. Otherwise you can get qweird lock up/pulling issues etc.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Calipers should always be replaced in pairs. Otherwise you can get qweird lock up/pulling issues etc.

X2 actually any work done should be pairs, rotors-shoes-brakelines-pads-bleeding, you can get by front/back some, I like to do all 4 at same time when I can, but time may dictate not working all 4 at same time, but work pairs at minimum.

 

[Slim Shady]

Thanks for the idea but way more "quan"... I bought a reman caliper with new pins for the right side for $38.00 my cost...(that's $27.75 USD) I think I will replace the left as well. The US-CDN exchange rate does not favour us north of 49 right now. However I was thinking about a rear disc conversion with an ebrake on the driveshaft. Rear drums up here run $185 each OUCH..

I just happen to have a set of GOOD drums that i took off my full floater rear. If you are interested let me know.

 

[steelydan]

Problem found (I hope)

Ok changed the drivers side caliper as well last week. Same problem. Bled brakes drove a couple hundred and bled them again. Same problem. Had new tires installed (needed them anyway) Same problem. Basically at low speed when applying the brakes the ABS would fire sometimes.

Googled "ABS low speed activation 1999 Suburban" and found many, many posts...apparently if an ABS sensor goes haywire on a 1999ish Sub it does not always set a DTC code... After some thinkin', and knowing the passenger wheel was hot I checked the ABS wiring to the passenger side. It was cooked in the tight bend where it enters under the rotor.

My 1995 had an ABS sensor go bad 2x and set a code both times.