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98 K2500HD, 6.5L 4L80E 4wd, rough running, need to drive 200 miles, details inside.

Its mom or dad's. :D

dad called me, told me about it, and I told him he was completely on his own, it would be his truck and his only. since its kinda fancy with push button 4wd and leather buckets, trying to talk mom into making it hers (aka her dumping money in it, since dad obviously wont) after all, it was owned previously by a very distant relative of her side of the family.

so, the only auto rigs in my stable: the burb,no choice there, as there is technically no 5spd burbs ever built, (I say technically, as there is a 6.5L 5spd burb floating around the forums, and it is a factory deal, VIN check and all, very special order) the 94 ECSB C1500 and once I find another in 5spd, this one is hitting the road. it was also destined to be junked, so I saved it. and finally, the junker K2500LD, which will stay junked.

also, tanner, can you afford a 2500 dollar or less project 99 C3500HD 6.5L 5spd RC 11ft flatbed? I might know of one. description says starts rough.
 
a fan of 6 banger chips are we? :) dont blame ya. you want the medium 159.5 inch wheelbase correct? (basically my project HD if I will ever let it go?)
 
What is the bed length on that? 12ft? I'm thinking more like 8-10ft bed. I might try a kojo tune eventually too but buddy's has impressed me so far.
 
well if the short one doesnt bother you I might let the bucket truck go at some point (gotta trim trees and replace lights in the shop! :D ).

the 135.5" is for 8-9 ft beds (depending on overhang) and the 159.5" is for 11-12ft beds. I am after a 183.5" which takes 14-15ft. :)
 
yes sir, kinda rare. and its a darker tan than most, kind of a red wheat color? I know it doesnt match my 96 K2500's interior.
 
Does anyone know anything about the NP 243 pushbutton transfercase? It wont go into 4wd. 2wd light is not always on, and when you push 4 hi, it just blinks, and wont let you go back to 2wd light wise. it is in 2wd the whole time. I checked the fluid and it puked a bunch, so I assume the t-case to trans seal is no good and is dumping fluid in. does that affect operation?

damn 4wds and electronics! :D my 2wds dont even have the stuff that is going wrong on these.
 
Most often it is the actuator on the front differential that goes south. I can not remember the correct name this second.

Check my threads. I changed one on the 1994 K3500 last November
 
on the older ones it's called a TLA (thermal linear actuator) on the newer ones it was replaced with an electric one. I am under the impression that when they switched to the pushbutton it also switched to the electric one. which aren't as prone to going out.
 
so you folks figure check for voltage at the actuator plug, and if there isnt anything, it is this mysterious t-case mounted switch (up on top somewhere I guess) and if its getting juice it will be the actuator?

hopefully it will be cheap, the folks dont like spending money on vehicles. fluids and filters they will do as needed, but boy, them unessentials, no need to fix that! :)

one final bit of pestering tanman, how are vehicle bodies coming out of Sulfur, OK? that is where this 99 HD is located, chickasaw telephone is selling it online. looks like some light surface rust on the bed and frame (no pitting, just light grittyness) , but it looks like the cab is rust free. flatbeds are cheap to insure around here, so whats one more? :D

thanks for the help everyone! (and if everyone promises to not run me up, I will find the link to the rig! :D I'd throw it up tonight, but dialup is low on boost tonight, so no 5 minutes spent getting the auction site to load. :( )

Merry Christmas to all, hope you enjoyed it!
 
Not sure when the switch was made, I assumed it was changed with body style.

Gm Guy, I've seen that truck in person and passed on it. It's not rusted just pretty rough otherwise. There isn't much salt down there (I live on salt flats), seems most Oklahoma trucks lose the painted frame but the frame isn't bad and most trucks that just run to town and back are ok, farm trucks see the worst of it.
 
at what price did you pass on it though? :ihih: if it was sub 1500 bucks, would you have jumped on it?

how long ago did you look at it and what kind of miles did it have then? Do you figure its just been sitting in their lot the whole time?

was it just mostly fixer upper things like interior issues? any dents or other body damage that you remember? they mentioned a hard start issue, I am hoping glow plugs.

you didnt remember if it had the thread on Waterpump did you?

any input greatly appreciated, thanks!


here is the link for everyone else: http://www.purplewave.com/cgi-bin/mnlist.cgi?121227A/F3091
 
I didn't want another project and it being a 99 I wasn't willing to pick it up.

I saw early last summer but don't recall the price. I wouldn't have paid over 1k for it personally, but then again I don't have a 3500hd 5 speed fetish and paid 2.5k for my 00 crew cab instead.

main issue was it is a company beater, rode hard and put away wet by 100 different employees that don't care.

Seat is done, ds door panel was crap, body had some hail dents, door hinges are shot, and a possible bad ip to top it off. Plus the bed doesn't suit my needs and I won't drive the truck painted like that.

Call me picky but it doesn't match my likes. I'd rather have a mint low mile cruiser with ALL the mods and a spun main bearing on a gep block. My work trucks need to be obd1 or mechanical, if it is obd2 it better be in damn good shape.
 
well, thanks for the reality check. :) its at 1300, plus 10 percent buyers fee, plus tax, etc. probably gonna be close to 2 grand when the dust clears.
I think I am gonna pass. the only things I would gain over my 95 HD that still needs a motor is: the big input shaft, dual tanks, and possibly the factory spin on clutch cooling system. at least with mine the heads are allready done, so I know where I stand on it. plus its fairly clean.

EDIT: sold for 1300. plus 10 percent, and tax! :)
 
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