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'94 6.5 Throttle Response Issue - throttle in neutral/park, no throttle in any gear

glad to hear you got it. was it just the initial glow time that was short? If you had the power to the PCM disconnected the first start the glow time is very short
 
Yes that was it then I put the memcal in my spare computer and left it dangling outta the glove box. Thanks!!


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Well folks the saga continues. I have replaced all 8 injectors twice as well as the IP and can't get rid of what I thought was injector knock. Please have a listen to this video - if anyone has any words of wisdom please let me know! By the way the IP that I installed was used and of unknown history. Its the only complete spare I had so I plunked it on there. I have another but the OS is missing. The PO of the pump told me that it was good. Is it worth the time to swap it or am I barking up the wrong tree?? :mad2:

http://youtu.be/dOPdB6xgYBM
 
Thanks AK. I will get it timed. There is a small amount of blow by but that smoke is from bleeding injector lines (block and manifolds saturated in fuel) and loose down pipe clamp with smokey exhaust due to this issue. The engine has tightened up a lot since the oil has finally gotten churned up a bit and the rings have been through a few temperature cycles. I have no idea how long it sat for before I bought it.


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TDCO set and sounds the same. -1.47*. Took off the return line from the IP and at idle fuel flow looks uniform. I suspect the IP but am not finding anything other than the noise that convicts it of causing the problem.


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Checked transfer pump pressure then decided to try swapping the pump. I had spoken to a friend on Friday though and he was ready to put money on a couple of injector lines being swapped. I dismissed the suspicion during our conversation because I had taken a photo of the injector lines on the pump before swapping it and verified their arrangement when I swapped the pump. Well as it turns out the previous owner had swapped the IP before I got the truck and was so convinced that the firing order was 1-8-7-2-6-4-5-3 that he bent #4 and 5 lines to fit in that order. I put them back in their places, bled 'em out and she fired right up and runs like a champ. Today I straightened out the left bumper horn with a little help from a cherry tree and a come-along and welded some new steel into the radiator support bracket. Tomorrow I will make the necessary cuts to make the rad support (from a 1500 gas truck) fit my truck. Then brakes, fuel sender, exhaust, and put the rest of the body panels back on it. Almost there!!


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Sweet!
Remember "- Describe any related factors
that might be part of the problem. _Weak cylinder. Cyl. 4 measures cooler than the rest using IR gun. DTC for cylinder imbalance on #4 and occasionally on #5._"

crossed lines! Oh well, at least you got it.
 
Just a quick update - got most of the body panels on and it seems that the frame needs further tweaking. I'm working on contacts with frame machines - I tried backing it up chained to that poor cherry tree and I'm just breaking stuff and bending my chains. I have all but the left front mount on and the body lines look pretty good but the cab may be shifted a bit. I just replaced both rotors and calipers in the front and installed new Nicopp brake lines in the front. Dropped the fuel tank and removed all of the crusty fuel lines and brake lines. Replaced all the rubber brake hoses and the rear brake lines on the rear axle. Freed up the rear bleeders and packed the threads with Teflon tape to keep them from rusting again. Inspected the fuel tank. Bought a new fuel tank and a horse-choking pile of bleeder caps. The project is nearing completion. Maybe I'll have it on the road before a year has passed since I bought it! Thanks again to everyone for all the help!

:cheers2:
 
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