93 to 95 swap compatability

[GM Guy]

I have located a RCLB 6.5L 4l80E 4x4 2500Hd chevy that is a good running truck, tough-looking box, dents, etc $1,000.

I was wondering how far i would have to stip the engine so that it can stick it in my 95. i want no cutting/modifying electronics or anything else on my 95, and i plan to use the DS4.

does the 93 have the IAT sensor, or do i need to swap the upper intake off my 95? what all needs swapped concering the auto tranny controls? (input to tranny comp) Is there any year breaks concerning stuff like lines? (oil cooler, high pressure injector) Any other year breaks, if any?


Basically I want it to be exactly like the engine in there, except running good!

 

[bk95td]

You will need to use the 95 upper intake and timing cover. The 93 does not have the crankshaft position sensor. As long as you have it that far apart ,I'd add the ho water pump. It's easier to swap ip's with the front apart also.

 

[JiFaire]

Yep to all that... plus you won't find a better time to do the oil line replacement.

Did the 93 have the CTS sensor? I think that has to be kept from the 95 also.

I would make a list and flag everything on the 95... then see if it is present on the 93. I think we have it all here, but I'm famous for remembering stuff once it's too late to really make good use of it...

 

[Bullseye240]

And since you hae to replace the front cover you might as well r&r the timing chain or replace with gears. Also might as well r&r all seals you can get to while its out to same time and trouble later. Great time to inspect lowre block foe main web cracks and other assorted goodies.

 

[JiFaire]

oooh... almost forgot!! Inspect (and replace if necessary) the harmonic balancer and front pulley!! (never gonna be easier)

 

[midniteplowboyy]

You'll need a 94 up timing chain set(no reluctor ring on 93 and older), the timing cover for the CPS and the CTS from your 95. Might as well swap the full intake when swapping the IP's, no IAT on the 93's. Swap the GP controller, they changed in 94. Swap the turbo's. Everything else is the same IIRC.

While your there, might as well reseal valve covers and replace the rocker arm keepers(reseal oil pan and replace the rear main seal if you think they need it also) and stick a HO water pump on there.

 

[GM Guy]

Yep to all that... plus you won't find a better time to do the oil line replacement.

Did the 93 have the CTS sensor? I think that has to be kept from the 95 also.

I would make a list and flag everything on the 95... then see if it is present on the 93. I think we have it all here, but I'm famous for remembering stuff once it's too late to really make good use of it...

so you mean the separate CTS that communicates with the ECM/PCM, correct?

 

[GM Guy]

So the list is
1) Swap intake: upper only (unless 95 lower is better than 93 lower)
2) Swap timing cover
a) put CPS compatable chain or gears in
b) change damper to Fluidampr, replace front one as well
c) upgrade cooling to HO pump, w/ option of doing dual t-stat
3) Swap injection pumps
4) Swap glow plug relay
5) Swap turbos
6) while tore apart....
a) upgrade oil cooler lines and possibly cooler
b) Put a girdle kit in, and possibly roll in bearings (underhaul)
c) replace alot of the hard to get to seals

 

[GM Guy]

Looking like i should just do all these upgrades on my engine.. after doing a major overhaul on it. looks like a fair amount of swapping is needed to do it right.

 

[midniteplowboyy]

I forgot to mention that the balancers are different depending on which timing chain used. 93 and older didn't have the reluctor ring so they had a longer hub. If you get a Fluidampr get one for a 82-93 mechanical pump, Fluidampr sends a spacer for the older engines making it fit both applications, so if you ever want to put it on an older engine you'll have the spacer.

When I ordered mine for the 93, summit had the p/n messed up and they sent me one for the 94 up trucks, it took me 6 weeks to finally get that spacer after I'd waited over a month for the balancer on back order.

 

[GM Guy]

Thanks for reminding me! I knew there was something being overlooked.

 

[JeffsJeep04]

You basically end up using the long block. If your 95 isn't running well, it's a good chance it's not the long block, it's the electronics. Still, that's a great price for a good running truck, and mechanical IP too

 

[GM Guy]

You basically end up using the long block. If your 95 isn't running well, it's a good chance it's not the long block, it's the electronics. Still, that's a great price for a good running truck, and mechanical IP too

Usually,yes. But this one was property of the local Chevy shop, as it was donated by the previous owner, as the hired guys blew the lower radiator hose and kept going to the next town. needless to say, the exhaust pipe also acts as a humidifier.

Luckily all this was known, and dad bought it for $700+ fees. He sold it to me for $750. I am still generating funds for the rebuild. (lets see, the truck has been waiting about 2 years for someone to throw $ at it! ):h:rolleyes5

I guess It should be clarified in my signature about the rig's current state...

 

[bk95td]

If your engine was that overheated it may not be salvageable. Just the machine work will cost over $800. The engine kit is over $1000. Add a few misc. parts and it puts the bill over $2000 if your heads are good. Then there's all the assembly and the chance of mistakes. In my opinion the used one makes more sense. You could also sell the rest of the truck to lower the cost.How much money do you want to spend?

 

[GM Guy]

I think my budget will be around $2,000 = another $1,000 to get the rest of the truck in shape. Hopefully some of the $1K will go toward a better flatbed.