84 454 motor buildup

[WilliamBos]

I love threads like this, so please keep us posted.

If I were building one, I would love to go this route, money pending of course.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/sto...t-for-Automatic-Trans-19244805-P2496C534.aspx

 

[big block 88]

reviving an old thread here instead of starting a new one, wow how plans change over 6 months expecially vehicle projects. the crewcab dually is almost done getting a cummins 12 valve transplant but i found a use for the 454.

picked up a 1986 k5 blazer that had a 350, sm465, and np208 in it. trans and t-case are doing just fine but the 350 decided it wanted to develop a very harsh rod knock really fast, sounds like it was about to throw the rod out the block (happened at highway speeds). so seeing as i have a 454 lying around that was working just fine, i decided to begin swapping the 454 into the blazer. before it goes in its getting new gaskets, double roller timing chain, and some basic upgrades consisting of a set of long tube headers and an edelbrock intake to go with the 800cfm carb thats on it. would also like to change the cam out for a one better suited to what the truck will be doing, rock crawling with some mudding and very little on-road driving.

i have already replaced the oilpan and head gaskets, timing chain and headers should be here by wednesday.

k5 blazer

350 and 454 sitting by each other

my question is, what would be a good duration and lift for the cam? operational use will be from idle-4k rpm's with most of the time being under 3500. building for torque, the less i have to use the skinny pedal and be able to crawl up the rocks the better.

Honestly on the cam I would hit up edelbrock and get one of the rpm cam kits, I ran one in my 88 I just told tem I had the heads port and polished and some bowl blending and they sent me an rpm torquer cam I can't rememeber the duration/lift specs. Amazing twist was supplied also went with there rpm air gap intake and had a new chip made for the ecm. I can say I was nowhere near 500 horse power at the time but it made tons of tq and rev'd quick and smooth

 

[red]

although a complete crate motor would be nice thats way more than what i'm willing to put into this rig lol.

the edelbrock rpm series doesnt look bad, but they start building torque a little higher in the rpm range than what i would like. their site lists it at 1500-6500rpm's, which would be great for a street vehicle but the k5 will see very little time on the street, and needs the torque to start at idle.

found this one from comp cams that seems like it would be a good candidate: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=392&sb=2, or this one http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=399&sb=2. got more searching to do still but that first one definetly has my attention. also filled out the info on lunati's website so i'll see what they say when they get back to me.

 

[red]

looking more and more like that first cam is the one that i'm going with. the longtube headers and the timing chain arrived today!

 

[btfarm]

Can't go wrong with the 1st comp cams kit for what you want to do. I was always too radical in my selections. Best to have a valve job done and spring heights set while you're doing this.

 

[red]

didnt even think about that work, gonna add a little time to the project but not too long. plan to have this driveable again in 2-3 weeks.

this weekend setting the block into the k5 and reinstalling the trans/t-case/drive shafts. waited until the headers arrived so i could get an idea of clearance issues, main concern will be with the clutch linkage since its mechanical. installing the cam with the motor in the truck wont be much more difficult, will need to remove the grill and the middle support bar to have room which isnt bad.

 

[red]

rolled the blazer into the shop a little while ago, letting the remaining snow/ice melt off before i get started

 

[big block 88]

Did you get the heads worked at all? depending on what head they are they may have the peanut port heads. If that is the case you will want to open them up a bit.

 

[red]

havent done anything to the heads yet. the block is now in the k5, went in alot easier than expected.

 

[red]

heads are the oval ports not the peanuts. taking the heads to a machine shop today to get them cleaned up a bit, also ordered the compcam (the first link of the 2) that should build up torque beginning at idle-4800rpm's. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=392&sb=2

fighting with the harmonic balancer again today, using the correct puller its pulled the bolts out of the balancer (stripping the bolts), and using a 3 jaw puller has had no luck either. going to get some longer bolts that are the correct thread pitch and give the correct balancer another shot today, hopefully it works. have tried using heat and a dead blow hammer with no success.

 

[red]

heads are getting a pocket port and a valve job, should be ready in a week.

balancer finally popped off, threads that the pulley attach to are now trashed and the balancer has seen better days so its going bye bye. timing chain and cover came off easily enough, now i'm fighting with the cam. can get it to come out about 1" before it feels like its hitting something

 

[btfarm]

Cam's gummed up at the journals. Spray a bunch of penetrating oil in the valley and work it in & out to loosen it up. Got some real long bolts screwed into the front of it (the cam) for manuverability?

 

[red]

no i've only had the short bolts that held the timing gear on the cam, i'll soak it down when i get to work in the morning, sitting all day should help out before i get a chance to work on it.

 

[red]

cam finally wiggled out. got the trans installed last night, planning to install the t-case tomorrow night along with the driveshafts and whatever wiring i can take care of

 

[red]

have run into an issue with the heads. being that the heads have been worked on before the valve seats and guides are out of specs, exhaust seats are way out and intake side is just barely in specs without any work being done. all work and new parts included for the stock heads i'd be looking at just under 1k.

being that i'm looking for low-mid range torque i dont need a high volume of airflow, just a little bit more than what the stock heads were doing. are there any advantages to going with an aluminum set of heads for my application? found these that look like they will fit what i'm looking for http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-50459/

 

[btfarm]

The Edelbrock street heads are an excellent piece but based on what you want this engine to do I wouldn't spend the $. Can't go wrong with them but I'd be shopping around for a good set of rebuilt, mild performance, cast heads.