635 Rebuild cont.

[Husker6.5]

So running stock tune on it still? Any possibility before changing the tune of getting some MPG numbers to see what just putting the ATT on has done?

 

[OrionThade]

So running stock tune on it still? Any possibility before changing the tune of getting some MPG numbers to see what just putting the ATT on has done?

I'm sure I could. I've been running into a bit of Lead-foot-itis, admittedly, so this tank is shot. I'll run another tank through and just see what the numbers looks like based on that.

 

[Husker6.5]

Appreciate that. Can't find it in your signature, but assume 4.10 gears in the K3500? As you can tell from my post comments on various threads, I'm not so much interested in massive HP gains for towing mega loads as I am in finding the combo for maximum MPG for highway cruising with my K2500 Suburban. Obviously, turbo efficiency plays a significant part towards achieving said efficiency.

 

[OrionThade]

Appreciate that. Can't find it in your signature, but assume 4.10 gears in the K3500? As you can tell from my post comments on various threads, I'm not so much interested in massive HP gains for towing mega loads as I am in finding the combo for maximum MPG for highway cruising with my K2500 Suburban. Obviously, turbo efficiency plays a significant part towards achieving said efficiency.

I thought it was in the sig, but I'm running 3.73's.

 

[Husker6.5]

I thought it was in the sig, but I'm running 3.73's.

Reread it again. Nope, everything but. 3.73 same as the Burb, which will give me a good ballpark idea, although I'm contemplating 3.42's front and rear for better mileage. Would love to go 3.21's, but evidently they don't make them for the 9 1/4" IFS, just the 10.5" rear. I'm aiming for 1800-1900 rpm @ 75-80 mph without going to really tall tires (air resistance) or a Gearvendors OD unit ($$$$$ w/4WD). Any way, will give me a ball park idea how much just swapping out the turbo would make for a difference.

As far as updating your 94 interior to 95-97, I can tell you from my own experience with my '94 Cheyenne C&C that '95-later seats do NOT fit in '94-earlier cabs. I bought a gorgeous '96 blue cloth 60/40 split bench with head rests out of a Silverado at a parts yard to replace my vinyl blue straight bench only to find out that nothing fits after yanking the old bench seat. On further checking at the stealership parts department, GM changed the floor pan stamping between the '94 and '95 model year. Mounting bolt holes don't come close for either the 40 individual seat on the passenger side, or the 60 bench with fold down console on the driver's side, the transmission/transfer case hump is different and interferes with the later seats (especially the 60 bench), WAY too much fabricating to make work AND safe. Easier to go with an aftermarket like Trail Boss and use their mounting brackets. As far as door panels go, don't know if all the clip holes are the same.

 

[OrionThade]

Reread it again. Nope, everything but. 3.73 same as the Burb, which will give me a good ballpark idea, although I'm contemplating 3.42's front and rear for better mileage. Would love to go 3.21's, but evidently they don't make them for the 9 1/4" IFS, just the 10.5" rear. I'm aiming for 1800-1900 rpm @ 75-80 mph without going to really tall tires (air resistance) or a Gearvendors OD unit ($$$$$ w/4WD). Any way, will give me a ball park idea how much just swapping out the turbo would make for a difference.

As far as updating your 94 interior to 95-97, I can tell you from my own experience with my '94 Cheyenne C&C that '95-later seats do NOT fit in '94-earlier cabs. I bought a gorgeous '96 blue cloth 60/40 split bench with head rests out of a Silverado at a parts yard to replace my vinyl blue straight bench only to find out that nothing fits after yanking the old bench seat. On further checking at the stealership parts department, GM changed the floor pan stamping between the '94 and '95 model year. Mounting bolt holes don't come close for either the 40 individual seat on the passenger side, or the 60 bench with fold down console on the driver's side, the transmission/transfer case hump is different and interferes with the later seats (especially the 60 bench), WAY too much fabricating to make work AND safe. Easier to go with an aftermarket like Trail Boss and use their mounting brackets. As far as door panels go, don't know if all the clip holes are the same.

Yeah, I've pretty much given up on the idea of replacing the interior, I should remove that from my sig.

I would still like to see if I can find some captain's chairs from a suburban, though. Same year is is fine at this point.

The biggest thing for me is that there are a few components that i need to replace on the interior. The driver side door panel and all of its components needs to be replaced as well as the trim around the dash cluster. I haven't yet found a door that's complete at a wrecker and it's prohibitively expensive to order it from someplace like LMC.

 

[Paveltolz]

Called Bill to chat and among the things we were talking over he said the motor should be done by the end of next week. Ted called a little later to confirm the news which is very welcome indeed.
New and improved Stanadyne ULSD capable IP and the other stuff on re-re-re-order like the Cam and Fluid Dampener purchased last summer and such will be in. Once completed, the motor will be prepared for delivery by 635. Perhaps I can pick up the anodized/plated parts today or Monday. I want to throw that Peninsular and spacer back in the works on the old motor to get some 0-60 times and such. Just to see if the changes I’ve felt after going back to the OEM intake set up are purely psychosomatic or not.
Normally I do 0-60 around 14 / 15 seconds in warmer weather. With the old OEM set up on there I thought the truck was a little more responsive but it was only a hunch. However, I did 0-60 in 12.4 and 12.3 but the air temp was only 32* as opposed to 80ish when I did the last test runs. So, with the air still much cooler than last summer, I’ll make a couple of passes with the Peninsular and spacer to see what’s what. I may throw the honed lower intake and Peninsular on it without the spacer and see how it goes. Spacer isn’t needed with that one.
Joe Heath’s truck is equipped with an HP3 cam kit and weighs in 1500lbs heavier than mine with a neutered tune, normal injectors and the old flat panel OEM airbox. I was right at 8 seconds in 80* weather so I’m very excited to see what the differences will be once the new motor is in and has a couple thousand miles on it. With my job, that should be a couple of weeks….

 

[Paveltolz]

The Cost of education

I called the anodizing company and was told the parts were ready. "Oh, we failed to mention that when anodizing cast aluminum 'natural' it comes out a little darker than original."
As you can see, "A little darker" is something of a subjective observation open to interpretation.


Nice to find out after the fact that the results were 'not [going to be] as advertised.'
The idea was to protect the parts so the shine would remain....not so much. Education.

As a repost, here's the before shots.


The spacer came out nice though.

I found a powder coater that can apply a Chrome and Clear finish over it. I'll have them Clear Coat the spacer as well. They did say that it was a good idea to anodize parts before applying powdercoatings as it serves as an excellent surface prep....

 

[Husker6.5]

But will all of that make it go faster/get better fuel mileage??:hihi: It will make for one very sharp looking engine compartment.

 

[Husker6.5]

Yeah, I've pretty much given up on the idea of replacing the interior, I should remove that from my sig.

I would still like to see if I can find some captain's chairs from a suburban, though. Same year is is fine at this point.

The biggest thing for me is that there are a few components that i need to replace on the interior. The driver side door panel and all of its components needs to be replaced as well as the trim around the dash cluster. I haven't yet found a door that's complete at a wrecker and it's prohibitively expensive to order it from someplace like LMC.

Oh the joys of parts yard scavenging, especially when every one else is looking for the same part(s) as you. Well, there's always the spray can of vinyl dye if you find a good panel but wrong color.....

 

[OrionThade]

Oh the joys of parts yard scavenging, especially when every one else is looking for the same part(s) as you. Well, there's always the spray can of vinyl dye if you find a good panel but wrong color.....

Biggest problem is that people tend to just rip the panels off without trying to remove them correctly. I also need the underlying framework. So far I haven't been able to find any in usable shape.

 

[Husker6.5]

Biggest problem is that people tend to just rip the panels off without trying to remove them correctly. I also need the underlying framework. So far I haven't been able to find any in usable shape.

Yup, those are the ones who are after either power window regulator assemblies, good door glass, power lock mechanisms or are looking for expensive aftermarket speakers.

 

[Paveltolz]

Anodizer's are making good and removing the stuff that made them all look like pewter. Will have them finished in Chrome powder coat if they come out still looking like crap, the spacer will get a clear powder coating and that will be that. Typical two steps forward and three back stuff.

 

[jhornsby3]

When your motor comes through, if they need the mobil motel, it's here. Two full bottles and plugged in and warm. Would be a good almost half way point to lay over for a rest and meal. You know how to get ahold of me if needed.

John

 

[Husker6.5]

Typical two steps forward and three back stuff.

And that's how you do the Hokey Pokey!

 

[Paveltolz]

Air Dog II

To refresh: The motor came with an AirDogII that 635 had mounted in a bed mounted tool box.

First I flipped the pump on the mounting bracket in what I think will help reduce the amount of U turns in the plumbing



To install this where the Walbro currently sits, I needed to do some adaption from the set up 635 had. The mounting plate is not for ‘in frame’ so after some measurements, I cut it by about a third and drilled a third hole to ensure a good, tight, secure attachment to the frame.





Then I made a 1” spacer to get the pump in-board from the “C” in the frame by re-useing quarter-inch nylon material I found in the storage tubs. However, I didn’t care for the set up as it seemed that while it was an inch thick and there are four bolts going through it, it wasn’t wide enough to prevent wobbling and thus weakening the set up.



So I literally went back to the drawing board and did some scale drawings of the frame, clearances etc. because it's new territory for me and I wasn't having any luck visualizing it without some reference material.

 

[Paveltolz]

I had originally thought that a 1” spacer between the mounting plate and pump bracket would be sufficient as long as I could put a ½” spacer between the frame and the plate but that wobble fatigue concern kept nagging at me. So, I concluded that a 1.5” spacer was needed and found some stock square material at Lowe’s that was already drilled perfectly to line up with holes in the bracket and mounting plate. SCORE!
View attachment 36464
View attachment 36463

I just needed to pick up some longer grade 8 bolts to make it work and I’ll use nylon locking nuts on the final assy.
So, I did the measuring, measured twice and did the cutting with a 4" angle grinder fitted with a cutting wheel. Then the edges were cleaned up with a dremel tool...no need getting a nasty snaggle edged cut.
View attachment 36466
View attachment 36467

Lines up just fine.
View attachment 36468

After cutting and cleaning up the new material I wanted to add a little stability to the two pieces so they weren’t free to shift so I cut some 3/8” threaded rod and made a couple of ‘bolts’ to give me a ‘warm fuzzy’ on the set up.
View attachment 36469

Then a few coats of paint to tidy-oop and protect the exposed edges and assembled the spacer. I did a test fit (and failed to photo the results) and its all ready for install.
View attachment 36470

Tomorrow, I’ll go for the install and discover what all else I’ve either forgotten or is missing. The discovery process never ends….

 

[Paveltolz]

AirDogII...Take II

Trying this again on the correct thread...long story.....

Air Dog II Install
For refreshers, the motor set up included an AirDogII lift pump set up that 635 had located into a bed-mounted tool box.
To install this where the Walbro currently sits, I needed to do some adaption from the “Bed” to frame rail.
First, "Flip" the pump on the bracket to reduce the number of "U" turns the plumbing will make...I hope.



The mounting plate is not for ‘in frame’ so I cut it by about a third and drilled a third hole to ensure a good, tight, secure attachment to the frame.






I then made a 1” spacer to get the pump in-board from the “C” in the frame. I re-used quarter-inch nylon material screwed and glued together but didn’t much care for the set up. Seemed to me that even with four Grade 5 bolts securing everything together, it appeared to narrow to prevent wobbling and thus weakening the set up.



So I literally went back to the drawing board and did some scale drawings of the frame, clearances etc.

 

[Paveltolz]

AirDogII cont.

I had originally thought that a 1” spacer between the mounting plate and pump bracket would be sufficient as long as I could put an additional ½” spacer between the frame and the plate. The bolts wouldn’t allow anything wider, but that struck me as jury-rigged and the wobble fatigue concern kept nagging at me. Plus, I wanted to reduce the pockets where salt flat residue could lurk and weaken the set up and frame. So, I concluded that a 1.5” spacer was needed and I lucked out and found some stock square material at Lowe’s that was already drilled perfectly to line up with holes in the bracket and mounting plate. That will make clean ups easier too. SCORE!



After measuring more than twice, I did the cutting with a 4” grinder fitted with a cutting wheel. The edges were cleaned with a Dremel (no use getting a nasty cut on a jagged edge). Holes line up perfect and there’s room to get at the bolts that will hold the mounting plate to the frame.




After a ensuring things were still lining up,


I wanted to add a little stability to the two pieces so they weren’t free to shift so I cut some 3/8” threaded rod and made a couple of ‘bolts’ to give me a ‘warm fuzzy’ on the set up.


After making up the bolts, I did the paint routine to help protect everything.


I did a test fit and ensured the longer bolts, which are a ¼” longer than I wanted, didn’t interfere with the filters and it’s all good (sorry, no pictures). The spacer got a couple more coats of paint and is now drying overnight.

Tomorrow, I’ll go for the install and discover what all else I’ve either forgotten or is missing. The process of discovery never ends….

 

[Husker6.5]

"The process of discovery" ends on that final trip to Lowes to get yet another piece for the fabrication that you weren't planning on making a trip for. Looks good so far and looking forward to seeing the final install!