6.5 to 6.2 swap

[Shane Warfield]

Hi I have a 94 6.5 turbo diesel crew 4x4 the engine has a knock. Someone said bad injectors?? does that sound like a rod?
2 nd question I am looking at a early 80's model 6.2 turbo diesel and was wondering can i swap that into the truck that has the 6.5??

 

[WarWagon]

Diagnose the knock before throwing an engine at it. It knocks when, how, and at what RPM? How loud?

It could be stupid simple like the harmonic damper on the front of the engine busted the rubber loose or flexplate broken/cracked. The 6.5's also have a rubber damper for the belt drive that can make a racket when the rubber fails. Anything on the belt drive can knock.

Hit all 8? Oil pressure? Cut open oil filter and look for shiny stuff in it.

A 6.5 is merely a punched out 6.2. The 6.5 heads are a little different to clear the turbo manifold better specifically a different injector angle. I have used 6.2 heads on 6.5 turbo manifolds. You drop the header wrapped manifold to change injectors. So a swap is possible, however, what shape is the 6.2 in: have you checked it for mains cracks?

 

[Will L.]

On the diagnose it first, can you do a video and post on YouTube, then put a link on this thread so we can hear it.

And yes, a 6.2/6.5 injector knock can sound like a rod knock.
Here in this video of me fixing my wall with my hummer as an example. The knock is a #4 injector that was given me fits. Some people mistakenly thought it was a rod.

 

[Paveltolz]

Friend of mine and former active member here swapped in a Ted's motor because of a 'rod knock' on his newly rebuilt motor...used the same injectors and discovered it wasn't the rods at all. Stethoscope or long screwdriver to the ear at each injector can be your $$ saving friend here.

 

[Will L.]

For locating it, crack injector nuts one at a time. If none make a difference that is one clue. If one cylinder makes the knock alter by loosening the nut, notate the cylinder say perhaps #4. Then remove #2 injector and #4 injector and swap them. If the knock changes to the new cylinder. It is the injector.

If it does not follow the injector, you then need to remove oil pan or valve cover next.
If oil pan, rotate engine by hand and remove that rod from crankshaft. Look for rod or crankshaft damage. Feel for for free play between rod and piston indicating wrist pin damage.
If valve cover carefully inspect and wiggle that cylinders rocker arm and pushrod for any free play. Inspect rocker arm button. Then remove and inspect rocker arm shaft assembly and inspect it and freeplay of arm on shaft. Inspect pushrods and lifters. Inspect cam lobes.

If you can’t post youtube video, you could text me a 10 second video and I will have my IT department (my son) post it for everyone.

 

[1994ch]

I just had a couple injector lines touching each other and the heater core hose...... I thought it sounded like I had a collapsed lifter. Moved the heater hose and pulled the injector lines apart and no more knock.....boy was I happy!!!

As far as the swap goes check the oil pan out. No first hand experience but I have been told that the early 80's 6.2's had a different style of oil pan due to a different style of rear crank seal....... this oil pan is reported to not fit into the 90's style vehicles with 4X4. I would assume that a big hammer or a grinder and a welder could reshape the bottom of the oil pan to make it work?? Late 80,s oil pans are reported to be the same as the 6.5 and pose no problems.
I have a 6.2 N/A with 6.5 accessories and brackets bolted to it. There was one bolt hole that did not exist in the 6.2 head, so I am running on one less bolt than designed.....

There is a post on here by Missy Good Wrench that spells out the exact years of the changes.