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6.2 questions

Anubis

Anubis

Being fat sucks
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People's Republic of Michiganistan, United Sociali
I found a 6.2 Long block on the cheap..... real cheap.... but its locked up from sitting in a shed for 10 years. The guy said it has the "fine" thread injectors.

if it isn't cracked I plan on new rings and bearings but how can I make the fine thread heads work with my turbo and DS4 fuel system?.......

can the short body fine thread injectors be made to work with the 6.5 turbo nozzles?

can the injector holes be re-tapped for the course threads?

will my water cross over fit it?


need to get this truck going because my Wife's car is un safe to drive and cannot be fixed..... need to know if this is going to work real soon ..... because I would have to go pick up the engine by mid next week.
 
6.5s use fine thread. Any 6.5 inj will fit but if the injectors are angled out it may hit the Turbo ex manifold. I've been told short body van injs solve this but cannot confirm. There a slew of other stuuf that needs to be reused from the 6.5 if going into a 6.5 DS4 equipped truck.
 
and here all this time I thought I had course thread injectors.....

I was just going to transfer everything from the 6.5 to the 6.2 ...... what I am mainly concerned with is will the heads from the 6.2 work in a DS4 with a turbo set up......

I was planning on 6.5 head gaskets...... doing the rings and bearings ......

next question .....

if I got the engine to turn over before disassembly ........ how would you go about re-seating the rings?...... would break-in oil help? or is the idea of not going through the engine barrowing trouble>
 
Anubis said:
and here all this time I thought I had course thread injectors.....

I was just going to transfer everything from the 6.5 to the 6.2 ...... what I am mainly concerned with is will the heads from the 6.2 work in a DS4 with a turbo set up......

I was planning on 6.5 head gaskets...... doing the rings and bearings ......

next question .....

if I got the engine to turn over before disassembly ........ how would you go about re-seating the rings?...... would break-in oil help? or is the idea of not going through the engine barrowing trouble>
Click to expand...

With the engine being locked up, i'm at very least take out the pistons&rings and hone the cylinders a little. In the cylinder bore, where the piston/rings were there will be a semi-circle of rust. The aluminum pistons don't rust to the cylinder walls, the iron rings do. I've had several engines that were locked up when i got them, learned the hard way by destroying a couple along the way too. :eek: My advice would be to soak the cylinders in marvel mystry oil for a week or so, then take it apart - you may be able to without breaking the rings if your carefull. Wash it down, oil the cylinders with like wd-40 and you can see what you have. Looks for cracks, especially on #8 cylinder. If it looks ok, hone it a little with a bottle brush hone, or find stones with liberal wd-40 or your favorite lube. That way you have a good chance of getting decent ring seal. You will be surprised at the junk between the rings & piston if it sits & rusts. You'll need to clean out those well.
Good luck
Don
 
The DS4 AFAIK will work fine but you may have to use the 6.2 Inj lines I think because of the angle. The simplest thing to do if your going this route is use the 6.5 heads. That will solve alot. The precups I think are better(although I never really understood what they are or what they do.)
 
Acesneights1 said:
The DS4 AFAIK will work fine but you may have to use the 6.2 Inj lines I think because of the angle. The simplest thing to do if your going this route is use the 6.5 heads. That will solve alot. The precups I think are better(although I never really understood what they are or what they do.)
Click to expand...

IIRC the 6.2 injection lines will not fit a DS4. The nuts that attach to the IP side are 5/8" on the DB2. The DS4's injection lines are 3/4" where they attach to the IP.
 
Aand AFAIK the 6.5 lines won't work on 6.2 heards due to inj angle unless you have a 90s+(could be wrong on year) 6.2 so 6.5 Heads may be the way to go.
 
I may not have a choice, my wife's car died a complete death this morning....... it is a good thing I was only going 10 mph. The strut popped through what was left of the tower and the hood....... I bought her a 4 door Suzuki Sidekick today so I don't have money to buy heads...... I will barely have enough to rebuild my injectors, get a gasket set/ARP head studs, and ring and bearing kit........ I am waiting to hear from the machine shop about the 6.5 heads I sent them.
 
You can swap the 6.5 heads on the 6.2 OR you can use a spacer between the head and the manifold to get a little clearance

The Precups will swap from the different heads, just make sure you use the same ones in both heads.

A 6.2 and 6.5 can swap most parts back and forth with no issue with only a couple acceptions.

Pistons and rings are of course not interchangable. The rods are the same. A late 6.2 with single piece rear main will swap cranks.

Heads will swap except for the real early red ones had slightly different water passages.

The late 6.2 heads will work fine on the later 6.5 rigs.
Injector lines for DS4 IP will not work on the DB2 pumps.

The 6.5 timing covers will swap as will the timing gears and such.

The electronic 6.5's use a reluctor on the crank sprocket and the VB dampener has a shorter snout to allow the longer sprocket.

The timing cover on the electronic engines has the Crank sensor port in the lower front LH corner.

Water pumps from the 6.2 will not work on the 6.5 whwn using the serp belt setup.

Oil pumps will swap, even the real late Hi volume pumps for the squirt blocks will work for any of the engines.

The early engines had cast iron rockers.
Engines after 84 had the stamped rockers.

The Push rods all have one end marked with a copper color, this has to go to the rocker end.

Flex plates will swap from 6.2 to 6.5 and back and forth. The 6.5TD was never fitted with a 700R4/4L60E but the stuff will work.

Intake manifolds will all swap as will water crossovers and the rest of the bolt on goodies.

Pretty easy to toss together a Hybrid 6.2/6.5 and make just about any combination of parts work.


Missy
 
I think his problem is trying to use a DS4 on a 6.2 with 6.2 heads which I don't see as being easily possible if it has the angled Injectors. To my knowledge there are no inj lines available that will connect a DS4 to earlier angled INj 6.2 heads.
 
Thanks MGW........... so given a cheap as possible budget and no machining skills or equipment ...... how would you do this? I have not abandoned the idea of converting to a DB2....... but I have all the parts for a DS4 and rouding up the parts I don't have for the DB2 would add a ton of cost to this.



chevyCowboy said:
is there any way other than the casting number to tell if a 6.2 is the older 660 style or the later 599
found this on ebay and its darn cheap but i would like to keep with the 599 castings
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DETROIT-DIESEL-GENERAL-MOTORS-6-2-ENGINE-MOTOR-TAKE-OUT_W0QQitemZ180447249570QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2a037e84a2
Click to expand...


I seen that same one...... and I might still buy one of those if its a 599. even with the gas to drive to Mississippi and back I would still be out ahead price wise over overhauling the other one I am looking at........ I could do that round trip in the Suzuki (take the back seat out and the engine would fit right in) for about $175 .........
 
I'd like to add that the spacer MGW is reffereing to between the manifold has to be made. I have never seen one available. Some giuys double ex manifold gaskets but to me that is asking for a leak.
 
Acesneights1 said:
:rofl: a 6.5 in a Suzuki....:eek:
Click to expand...

DSCN0151.jpg


DSCN0154.jpg


there you go.

empty it was 30" from the bottom of the wheel well to the ground. After the 'Kick had the whole weight of the engine it was 28".

And it made the 'Kick easier to drive in the wind ....... wasn't getting slammed around like a rag doll.


although I will say ...... I was glad I did not go to Mississippi to get the mil take out ....... that was my other option ....... that trip would have sucked ........


anyways I paid $75 for that. It is atleast an '83... has fine thread injectors...... I cannot find the casting number..... I think it is 660 .... or atleast that is most likely........ If the block turns out to be cracked I will put the heads on Ebay and keep looking.... you never know, I might get lucky and it turns out to be a 599.

I unloaded it yesterday and baithed it in PB blaster .... Sunday after my daughter Basket ball game me and torch are going to start the tear down....... I will take pics if I remember the camera .....
 
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