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6.2... no compression #7

H

huntingman2706217

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truck JUST turned 100k but prior owner said something to me about using starting fluid... probly the killer... whats my options?? with just low miles could i just pull the bottom end and replace rings? given there isnt a giant piston hole and valve damage when im in there... it doesnt leak or anything so i hate to rebuild the whole durn thing... also think if its out and i gotta rebuild the whole thing im gonna have a machine shop retap the injector hole threads... my trucks a 82... would like more injector options anyways...

thanks abunch!
 
Need to pull the injector and in with a boroscope.

Problem is, that cylinder wiped out from starting fluid, there is probably 1 or 2 more that sustained damage, just not as much as that one cylinder...
 
the other 7 were between 280 and 300 i was told... which i think is a little low but least they were all the same...

im gonna do a compression check on this 6.5 mechanical i got for my crawler... if its good then ill go through it and stick it in the 82... rebuild the 6.2 for the crawler instead... thats the plan thus far just gotta research on what i wanna do to the 6.5 while its out performance wise...
 
What is the compression for #7? You can't rering from the bottom, heads have to come off.

Never heard of retapping the heads for finer threads, I think you'd be better off finding different castings.
 
turbovanman said:
What is the compression for #7? You can't rering from the bottom, heads have to come off.

Never heard of retapping the heads for finer threads, I think you'd be better off finding different castings.
Click to expand...

number 7 is ZERO... lol... heads gotta come off... check... and i wouldnt see why you wouldnt be able to rethread them? im surprised nobody else has but i guess the 82's few and far between... the holes cant be that much different in size but im newer to this motor anyways...

tanman_2006 said:
Compression new is bout 400, it's time for a rebuild

source unknown
Click to expand...


minimum acceptable compression is 275

but if the heads gotta come off either way then may as well... hopefully i dont have to so any machine work though... with zero compression i hope the piston didnt melt up and scar the wall to bad... i gotta pull the glow plug and put compressed air on it to see which way its going... north or south...

until this 6.5 is put back together ill still be driving it to take the trash and stuff... just wont be going on any trips or pulling any loads... been driving it all over GA like it is not knowing since i bought it this way i never noticed a lack of power or anything... no crazy engine noises either...
 
Pretty big tap to redo the threads, but if you found someone, great.

Zero that means 3 things-hole in the piston, burned valve or broken rocker arm.
 
If you have the stock 82 setup, its the cast setup, but some have had the shafts break. The 6.5 setup had more problems with the buttons breaking.

I'd take off the valve cover. :thumbsup:
 
was thinking about scoping it... should tell me everything i need to know hopefully... waiting for the wife to get home so i can go pop the hood and see what i wanna do...
 
well that was a fail... bought a oreillys special boroscope and its really not bad but i cant get through the precup with it... i may could if i didnt have a swole up glow plug in the way... guess either way the head needs to come off... im wondering how the shop did a compression check on that cylinder... i thought most used the glow plug hole... ill probably pull the head before pulling the motor just incase it a valve
 
huntingman2706217 said:
well that was a fail... bought a oreillys special boroscope and its really not bad but i cant get through the precup with it... i may could if i didnt have a swole up glow plug in the way... guess either way the head needs to come off... im wondering how the shop did a compression check on that cylinder... i thought most used the glow plug hole... ill probably pull the head before pulling the motor just incase it a valve
Click to expand...

:blindfolded: Who did what and do you have paperwork showing this? I sincerely suggest you trust but verify! Quite frankly start your diagnosis over and don't assume the past people knew what is wrong with it!

What are the symptoms exactly?

What do you want to do with this engine: turbo? Otherwise who cares about fine or standard thread 6.2 injectors? I don't understand why it matters to you for a NA truck so I am simply in the dark here. They need rebuilt with high quality nozzles due to miles, yes.

Get your own compression tester for a diesel, gas engine ones blow up with cool ER visit shrapnel, and verify the compression yourself.

A dead cylinder on a 6.x engine is pretty damn clear from the starter sound hitting 7 evenly and then zing past the 8th cylinder compression stroke. I did have one with a piston locked up at TDC but it made noise running on 7 of 8 and didn't hold coolant aka the pic to the left of mine...

I bet you simply have bad glow plugs and could use a extractor tool from leroydiesel.com and don't have to pull heads. Use self limiting glow plugs and a 1993 KISS glow plug controller setup with a manual override.

Have you checked for excessive blowby? Does it chug like a train or just blow a steady stream of smoke out the oil fill with the cap off?

Sure a few things changed from the 82 heads including smaller valves to stop valve burning. This doesn't mean you have any specific problems.

Again to save yourself major unneeded work:
Compression check on your own.
Put it on here what exactly it is doing that you think needs repair.
Start the repair parts needed list with self limiting duraterm glow plugs, 1993 controller, GP manual override setup, and injector rebuilds. (I wouldn't mess with a 82 controller just update it.)
 
yeah, compression test with out removing the glowplug?!? yeah if you just happen to have a spare injector to tear apart and weld a fitting into that can screw on to the tester hose. not likely. I disagree with Warwagon on 1 point-trust before verify- no trust on not having done the job right.

I do still believe there is a compression problem so maybe a mute point. I just frigging hate when a shop charges properly but doesn't turn a wrench properly.
 
WarWagon said:
:blindfolded: Who did what and do you have paperwork showing this? I sincerely suggest you trust but verify! Quite frankly start your diagnosis over and don't assume the past people knew what is wrong with it!

Its actually my brother in laws step fathers shop... hes the ONLY one i like working on my stuff... works on tractor trailers and has a no crap drag car built out of a cavalier... i dont think he would lie about it but i wonder if he was able to test compression through the injector hole? he works on big rigs also so he may have such a tool...

What are the symptoms exactly?

Hard start... lots of white smoke till it gets warmed up...

What do you want to do with this engine: turbo? Otherwise who cares about fine or standard thread 6.2 injectors? I don't understand why it matters to you for a NA truck so I am simply in the dark here. They need rebuilt with high quality nozzles due to miles, yes.

not needed... got it... no problem... can you buy just the injector rebuild kits with new nozzles somewhere? I have my #7 out and theres really nothing to these... should be able to do it myself...

Get your own compression tester for a diesel, gas engine ones blow up with cool ER visit shrapnel, and verify the compression yourself.

I was going to buy one but for the money and only needing it once they cost much more then the shop doing it... figured it would be worth it but at this point i may have to so i can doublecheck whats going on myself...

A dead cylinder on a 6.x engine is pretty damn clear from the starter sound hitting 7 evenly and then zing past the 8th cylinder compression stroke. I did have one with a piston locked up at TDC but it made noise running on 7 of 8 and didn't hold coolant aka the pic to the left of mine...

motor sounds normal to me starting... no knocks or anything... when starting or running...

I bet you simply have bad glow plugs and could use a extractor tool from leroydiesel.com and don't have to pull heads. Use self limiting glow plugs and a 1993 KISS glow plug controller setup with a manual override.

Glow plugs were just replaced by the PO when i got the truck... still had a hard start then and still now... however they are some AC Delco number and the fact the rear is swole up tells me either it was never changed or these AC delcos arnt gonna cut it for me... ive seen the Bosch numbers everyones running and got a set saved on Ebay for whenever i get ready... the controller is stock but PO put a toggle switch on it... which of course ive left on many times and im sure he did too... i freakin hate that switch... im in GA so i have no need for it to do anything else when what it did from the factory...

Have you checked for excessive blowby? Does it chug like a train or just blow a steady stream of smoke out the oil fill with the cap off?

i have not i guess... It doesnt really chug except you may could say it does when first started... it doesnt sound like its camming or nothing though... i havent removed the cap while it was running to see if anything blows out... so nothing noticable... ill check this weekend i hope... injectors still out and no time this afternoon...

Sure a few things changed from the 82 heads including smaller valves to stop valve burning. This doesn't mean you have any specific problems.

Again to save yourself major unneeded work:
Compression check on your own.
Put it on here what exactly it is doing that you think needs repair.
Start the repair parts needed list with self limiting duraterm glow plugs, 1993 controller, GP manual override setup, and injector rebuilds. (I wouldn't mess with a 82 controller just update it.)

for the record i have fuel... converted to electric and clear line on the IP shows no air....

Will L. said:
yeah, compression test with out removing the glowplug?!? yeah if you just happen to have a spare injector to tear apart and weld a fitting into that can screw on to the tester hose. not likely. I disagree with Warwagon on 1 point-trust before verify- no trust on not having done the job right.

I do still believe there is a compression problem so maybe a mute point. I just frigging hate when a shop charges properly but doesn't turn a wrench properly.
Click to expand...


I read in the 6.2 and 6.5 diesel page books that compression shouldnt be less then 275 or something like that... all mine were the same of 280 to 300... only 100k on the motor... new i was reading of people breaking 400... so i got no idea where i should be sitting at... lol...
Click to expand...
 
The answers give us a clearer idea of what is going on.

Have a shop do the injectors as you have to set the pop pressure with shims special tools and well sure there is always a first time, but, most have better things to do.

Glow plugs are a real PIA. The can have a 30 second life if they are not self limiting. Worse if you let them get hot while the engine is running the injectors can blow them in half and you have a real FOD mess on your hands. The toggle needs to be replaced with a hold or push on switch that will NOT stay on when released. Hot weather with low pressure injection the IDI's have does not eliminate glow plug needs esp. when the head and rotor in the IP starts to wear out.

Your 82 also has a cold advance and fast idle. These switches are known to go bad. They also disable the glow plugs when hot. You will have to check the book for the exact setup as I only go as far back as 1988 for experience. The 86 stuff I got was converted to 1993 using the 1986 design switches as plugs... :rolleyes5:

I have no horse in the shop relationship. You could have ruined the glow plug since the test - it's possible. If the truck is hitting all 8 on the starter with an evenly spaced loading up sound it has to have compression on all 8. Maybe the shop hired help fouled up the test somehow. It wouldn't hurt to ask to borrow the tool or check it over with the 'kin' even if you pay him again.

turbovanman has a good suggestion of valve issues. I imagine a valve not opening could sound good on the starter but fail a compression test.
 
today i stopped by harbour freight and picked up their snap on quality diesel compression test kit ;)

was like $40 and actually had the fitting to mount the compression tester in the injector hole... same threads and everything... so i did... however the engine was not hot and running before hand like the procedure recommends... it hasnt been ran in like 4 days... BUT i did have 250PSI the first time... which was about 8 rotations... i then waited a min or two and did it again and got 320PSI...

im not really sure what happened... this fellas got no reason to lie to me about something like this... he knew id do the rebuild myself anyways so he wasnt gonna make anything extra on me... im wondering if something went wrong with his gauge or something got clogged up on it maybe? possible it was his last cylinder to check... its apparently easy and common to check it using the injector plug hole if my el cheapo harbour freight kit came with the proper fitting... he probably did the same... so now i plan to check the other cylinders myself just to be sure... and if all is well then ill move on... ill buy some glow plugs that are worth a dang which i figured i would be doing anyways once i read the cheap autozone ones dont shut themselves off... this was way back in my troubleshooting... ill also make sure they are getting power to them in the first place...

I still dont think that will fix my problem... even when the motors at operating temps i can cut it off and try to restart (in 3 seconds or 10 minutes doesnt matter) and it will still take 15 seconds to start back... sometimes i thought it was never gonna start again... that was after a 2 hours long ride...

but as long as i dont need a rebuild just yet im good with that... lol... least means i can continue getting it ready to pull my gooseneck around... injectors will be next... i have a fella here local to me... Garmons Diesel Performance... some of the cummins guys may know of him... hes got a pop tester and could probly so them... but he hates 6.2 and 6.5's and would probly charge me $50 each to do them... id have to check with him...
 
when i do go injectors is there a reason to upgrade then if im staying without the turbo? id like to build it up a little as parts need replaced... injectors... exhaust... better intake system... all that bolt on stuff... but if i need to do injectors i may as well go with something that puts out more UNLESS OEM can handle it... im reading on the marine injectors... Mercedes injector nozzles... different pop settings... but theres so much going all directions im lost now... just want a better injector if i can get them lol... found some rebuilds with bosch nozzles that are set stock for $315... dont think thats to bad...
 
Lots of places to get injectors done. The bottom line is you want Bosch German made nozzles. Do not use made in China as they don't last. Made in wherever is NOT on the injector body as that is re-used during a rebuild.

Possible the shop got the banks and cyl numbers mixed up or simply had a loose hose during the test. It happens.

If you are going to tow anything major you really need to go turbo. Nothing else will give you any where near the power as adding a turbo. Quick and dirty is to get the Banks manifold that Leroy Diesel can sell separate. Everything but their small turbo... Then get a HX40II or bigger ATT turbo depending on what and the grades of where you are going to tow. Turbo's over NA will cut your MPG unloaded. Trade off for getting there sometime this week when towing because NA hardly gets out of it's own way to begin with. There there is precups, head studs, 6.5 DB2 injector pump for more power... Till the trans can't hold it.

Otherwise you could just enjoy a high MPG truck for uses other than towing.
 
i mainly bought it for towing... reg rab 4x2 flatbed... 3 speed + granny low... 4.10 geared 14bolt with the G8... i wont keep it forever towing probably as i need a 4 door and would like something newer but probably a couple years if i had to guess... i just picked up a 5th wheel that ill be hauling around my rock crawler with... pretty much all over the SE...

yesterday i put the injector back in and got her cranked back up... for whatever reason its pissin oil out the rear main pretty good now... popped the oil cap and lots of white smoke coming out... however im a jeep guy and this is common on our inline 6... doesnt hurt anything just makes a mess... not sure what it means on this engine though... i know you had asked is why i mention it... kinda makes me wonder since now its leaking so much oil... it never leaked a drop up till i pulled that injector... "path of lease resistance" comes to mind with crank case pressures... its not making oil and if anything it burning it...

the banks manifold and exhaust setup sound like something i can do later on if i have to rebuild this motor... really just looking for what i can do while "rebuilding" it... i hope i can get away with not having to do machine work and just replace parts... but im REALLY hoping i dont have to do anything internal in the first place... thing needs to stop playing games with me... lol
 
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