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6.2 flywheel help

J

just a number

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Location
Trenton ON
does anybody happen to know if there are any differences between years? the transmission came out of a 80-84, but the motor is from a '91
I'm going with the mechanical clutch just to be different. well that and less hoses to keep track of.:eek:. any other info would be great
 
Could you use autozone or some other site to check part numbers and cross reference Dan?
 
I've been getting mixed info on this one. some say there different and other say there the same. I was hoping somebody had better info:thumbsup:
 
I am giving you the better info. I have owned lots of 6.2's with my first one being a 1983 that I bought in 85. I was one of the pioneers to put a 6.5 in place of a 6.2 in 1994 as well as swap a nvg 4500 behind a 6.2 and then behind a 6.5. The list goes on and on, I have forgot more about 6.2's than most people know. I am here to share 26 years of experience with gm diesels and along with owning my own 4x4 shop for 7 years, I am also an ASE Master tech. I am here to make life easy for you, pick my brain, if I don't know the answer, I will tell you.
 
6.2/6.5 are externally balanced engines. The harmonic balancer and flywheel both have large balance pads and flex plates have a large chunk of steel welded to them for balance. One thing I didn't mention before, there was a light duty flywheel that was used in front of the early light duty overdrive transmission. I honestly can't comment on this flywheel because I have never seen one, but I have heard that it is much lighter than the heavy duty version.
 
2 more questions for all of ya. Is it bettor or does it matter to get a matched flywheel/clutch(set) or is it just as easy to the individuality? and is there any companies to recommend one way or the other?
 
I've never seen a matched set with a flywheel usually just disc and pressure plate. If starting from scratch I'd go with a matched pp and disc.
 
The last 6.2 clutch set that I bought was from Napa. I bought it to use in a 1983 sm465 one ton with a 350 gasser. The reason I used the diesel clutch, it because it has the torque hub in the disc that makes for smoother take offs. This clutch set was pretty cheap, only 130.00, included pressure plate and disc and throw out bearing. This clutch worked fine, but it was made in china. I bought a couple of late model 6.5 clutches and a new flywheel from 1999 engines from penninsular diesel, this is how I verified the part numbers from early 6.2 flywheels to late 6.5 flywheel, they were the same. The clutch disc on this application was different than the earlier discs, but appeared interchangable. The friction material was narrower so that effectively you would have more psi on the disc for more holding power. I believe 6.2 flywheels are available from the major auto parts companies like autozone and rock auto. The heavy duty flywheels were only used with the sm465 and the limited nvg 4500's. I would specify the sm 465 however to make sure that someone doesn't try to sell you a dual mass flywheel from an early 6.5 (totally different animal, pos)
 
I can't say I've ever heard of a torque hub before. I will keep that info handy. I remember reading the horrors of the dual mass flywheel mess!:eek:
 
The torque hub allows the center of the disc to absorb some of the initial shock when the load is applied. The center actually moves around a quarter turn through a nylon bushing. Cool design, just not very durable. When they wear out the bushing gets very sloppy and can cause vibrations.
 
Problem is, it is the only good choice. If you use a disc from a gasser, you will have much worse vibration, rattling problems. I once tried to use a disc from a dual mass flywheel and machined the flywheel to accept the dual mass pressure plate. Bad idea, the disc is solid, no springs, set up terrible harmonics at low rpms, echoed through the whole drivetrain.

Just a thought, but before you scrap your 4l80, I would call Mike L. and see if he could give you some insight to repair it.
 
I had considered repairing the 4l80e but it's already due for an overhaul after 5 years from the last one. that as it's got to be the most expensive piece to fix on there. so far it's cost me chose to 3K(CAD) for the rebuild+repairs. and that doesn't include maintenance on it.it just simpler and cheaper to get rid of it be done with it. that and then I don have to deal with the electronic BS anymore. computers are cars don't mix.:incazzato:

I guess I'm stuck with the torque hub setup then. any way to minimize the issues with it?
 
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