5.7 diesel up and running

[dieselolds]

Here are some pictures of all the parts on a table after taking the pump apart.Everything is pretty good except the Bristol drive bolt and advance piston due to the rust.The Bristol drive bolt is brittle and easy to break.I usually place a torx bit into the bolt with a couple small whacks of a hammer and then use a impact gun to whip it out.A ratchet will not work.I’ve seen them split and fall apart when trying to use a ratchet.

 

[dbrannon79]

Curious if this bristol bolt is present on a DB2 IP for our 6.2's / 6/5's. where is this bolt located on or in the IP?

 

[dieselolds]

Curious if this bristol bolt is present on a DB2 IP for our 6.2's / 6/5's. where is this bolt located on or in the IP?

It’s only found on olds 5.7 pencil injection pumps along with older John Deere and case roosamaster DB and DB2 pumps.The 6.2/6.5 just has a small pin that slides into the cam ring.This particular Bristol drive bolt threads into the cam ring on the olds pencil pump.The olds diesel with poppet injection has the same steel pin as the 6.2/6.5 DB2 pumps also.

The 5.7 pencil pump has no mechanical light load advance lever on the outside.So thats the particular pump with the threaded Bristol drive bolt.

 

[dbrannon79]

It’s only found on olds 5.7 pencil injection pumps along with older John Deere and case roosamaster DB and DB2 pumps.The 6.2/6.5 just has a small pin that slides into the cam ring.This particular Bristol drive bolt threads into the cam ring on the olds pencil pump.The olds diesel with poppet injection has the same steel pin as the 6.2/6.5 DB2 pumps also.

The 5.7 pencil pump has no mechanical light load advance lever on the outside.So thats the particular pump with the threaded Bristol drive bolt.

Thanks for that. at some point I would like to take the IP that I have mounted on a 6.2 and try going through it my self. I figure as long as I don't mess with any adjustments I would be able to reseal it along with check for wear and tell if it's fubar or worth running / full rebuild if needed and not have to pay a shop to rebuild only to find out it's too far gone.

I have no clue what the going rate is for a rebuild is vs just getting a new or exchange. One day I would like to have a good spare for when that time comes. maybe even get this one done, install and get the current one done so I'd have the truck alive for the long haul.

 

[dieselolds]

There is a guy on Facebook in Missouri who does a real good job on those pumps and injectors.A lot of people recommend him.Its Dennis Erickson.

 

[dieselolds]

Thanks for that. at some point I would like to take the IP that I have mounted on a 6.2 and try going through it my self. I figure as long as I don't mess with any adjustments I would be able to reseal it along with check for wear and tell if it's fubar or worth running / full rebuild if needed and not have to pay a shop to rebuild only to find out it's too far gone.

I have no clue what the going rate is for a rebuild is vs just getting a new or exchange. One day I would like to have a good spare for when that time comes. maybe even get this one done, install and get the current one done so I'd have the truck alive for the long haul.

That’s my plan as well.I have a few of these olds pencil pumps.Two have the EID updated cage but haven’t been used in a long time.I want to take them apart and freshen them up a little with a new seal kit after I put all the internal parts in a ultrasonic cleaner.Like you were saying as long as no adjustments are altered you’ll have no problems with reassembly.

 

[dieselolds]

There is a guy on Facebook in Missouri who does a real good job on those pumps and injectors.A lot of people recommend him.Its Dennis Erickson.

Sorry it’s not in Missouri.He is located in Kansas.

 

[dieselolds]

I used the vevor brand ultrasonic cleaner for the first time today and I was really impressed how well it cleaned up all the internal parts within the injection pump.The pump needed to be disassembled anyway to get rid of the flex ring and once I did,I found stuck pumping plungers.They are now nice and free.Its been about 15yrs since this pump was used so its been quite awhile.

I have some of the pump assembled.Tomorrow I hope to finish it and reinstall it upon the engine and get it running.I used some deep creep penetrating fluid upon the plungers and rotor assembly before inserting into the hydraulic head section.

I also tried freeing up two new old stock 5.7 pencil injectors in the ultrasonic cleaner and both injectors have pintles that are stuck pretty good at this point.I disassembled both injectors before putting them in the cleaner.I sprayed deep creep down inside each one after taking them out and blowing them dry with compressed air in hopes that it will work the pintles free.

 

[dbrannon79]

Nice! the one I have is a chineeesium special from amazon. I ordered the one with a mechanical timer and knob dial for the temp thinking that the digital one might go bad before the rest of it failed. I'd rather go mechanical over electronics when possible.

I found on cleaning fluids that you can use just about anything. I really like the ZEP de-greaser from home depot for it. it seems to knock off all carbon and even dissolves most surface rust. it did wonders with 6.5 injectors! sometimes I'll even go as far as pouring the cleaning solution in a glass jar and nuke it in the microwave to get it hot prior to starting up the machine.

get you some paint filters from harbor freight and use them to filter out what's in the machine and keep reusing it till it gets too grimy!

 

[ak diesel driver]

Dishwasher detergent works good too