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4L80E GM Goodwrench reman question

Husker6.5

135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
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Hey there resident transmission experts like @THEFERMANATOR , I have a question concerning GM Goodwrench remanufactured transmissions.

I purchased a Goodwrench 4L80E 4WD, with torque converter, out of '99 K2500 7.4L Suburban with only 30,000 miles on it that was remanufactured back in 2012 (the donor vehicle had been parked since summer 2015 before the tranny was pulled, and has been sitting outside on concrete beside my garage since September 2015) to replace the shelled out 4L80E (no gears in any direction!) in my '98 K2500 Suburban 6.5TD that has been sitting dead in my driveway since February 2015.

Other than a good power washing in my driveway with my little 1650 psi power washer, to get all the nasty grime off of it from when the motor in front of it spewed a couple of quarts of oil and a lot of rural gravel road dust all over it in the last months of the motor's life (everyone should own one, damn handy and easier that hauling stuff down to the quarter car wash and dumping in $5-$6 in quarters to clean parts/engine compartment/suspension a shot, pays for itself in what would have been about ten trips - not to mention being able to wash your own vehicles, house siding/windows, etc.) I haven't touched it otherwise. It has been sitting with a full load of transmission fluid in it, the in and out ports sealed and the dipstick tube and stick in place.

Anyway, now that you have a little background on the transmission, here is my question for the experts.

When GM Goodwrench does a reman on a 4L80E, do they include any design/parts improvements from original manufacture? Ie: Since remanufacture was 2012, would it internally be brought up to 4L85E specifications with the wider Reverse band and drum, heavier duty 32 sprag element, heavier duty input shaft/OD clutch assembly, valve body upgrades, Torrington bearings instead of thrust washers, etc. Or is it just rebuilt back to '99 assembly line specs?

Of course, before I put it into my Burb, I'm taking it to a local, trusted transmission rebuilder (NO trusting AAMCO, etc) who does performance and HD commercial fleet transmission work and having them drop the pan and valve body, visually check things out for signs of corrosion/wear, etc. Check the electronics, solenoids, harnesses, external main socket, flush the valve body and install new input/output shaft seals (cheap leak insurance, the rear on the Burb had been slow leaking for a couple of years, over filling the transfer case in about a year's time) before putting it into the Burb. Then there's the matter of find either a quality rebuilt IP from a trusted source or finding a good rebuilder to rebuild my current pump, as the failing IP is what caused the ultimate demise of my transmission in the Burb.
 
GM SRTA's are done as CHEAP as possible normally. Mine in my 95 didn't have 40k miles on it when it started slipping, abd I didn't beat on it hard. It never shifted right the whole time I had it. They do the bear minimum to get them back out much like Jasper would. I would at least have a HD2 shift kit put in it, a TCC lockup valve since you have the valve body off, and if it's a decent size shop they should have the stuff to put the transgo AFL valve in it.

And if you do put the HD2 kit in without pulling the trans all the way apart, I would gladly take the intermediate snap ring and direct clutch springs off your hands.
 
Thanks for the info, @THEFERMANATOR . I know I can count on the low down and a straight answer on transmissions from you. Based off of your answer, my future plan of attack will be to have it looked at to make sure there's no internal corrosion/damage from sitting outside so long and run it as is while I take to save up the money (about a year) for my non-runner and have it totally rebuilt by the shop I trust with the parts I'll supply them to make a bullet-proof 4L80E.

Now, I need to address a rebuilt/rebuilder for my IP that won't set me back two week's pay for a quality, dependable pump for my '98. Because I must take care of that issue (the bad IP) that took out my current transmission before installing this one.
 
Thanks for the info, @THEFERMANATOR . I know I can count on the low down and a straight answer on transmissions from you. Based off of your answer, my future plan of attack will be to have it looked at to make sure there's no internal corrosion/damage from sitting outside so long and run it as is while I take to save up the money (about a year) for my non-runner and have it totally rebuilt by the shop I trust with the parts I'll supply them to make a bullet-proof 4L80E.

Now, I need to address a rebuilt/rebuilder for my IP that won't set me back two week's pay for a quality, dependable pump for my '98. Because I must take care of that issue (the bad IP) that took out my current transmission before installing this one.
I wonder of @quadstar87 quad star tuning rebuilds them and has a test machine ?
This summer after the weather stabilizes and warms some I am thinking I`ll probably be looking for someone to send off My pump to.
 
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