• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

47RE sluggish into gear cold.

Yeah, it's not hard to do while the VB is out, it's just one adjustment.

I just can't remember the spec off hand.

I'll get it to ya tonight.
 
TV adjustment....

VBAdjustment.jpg
 
Here's a copy and paste from when I was helping my buddy Donny over the phone.....

Donny's kind of a visual guy, so I made him take a picture are EVERY stop so I could see EXACTLY what he was doing.

):h

Well ... Thanks to RICH, I think I'm done with my tranny problem.

After going round and round and round and round trying to figure it all out, I FINALLY got it fixed, and it was all by dumb luck

Rich tried to help me a couple of weeks ago while i was camping. I had the cable apart to make the adjustments, but for the life of me, I couldn't figure out how to adjust the cable. I knew what I was supposed to do - move the cable 1/8" to change the shift points, but i couldn't figure out HOW to move the cable.

( That was how I first stumbled onto the bracket being off from the bottom of the trans )

Rich wanted me to take some pictures of my cable because apparently there are a couple of different ways that the cables were made and thus adjusted. It was during my photography class that I figured it out

This is how you adjust the cable on a 1998.5 Ram with the 47RE trans


First, you open up the black plastic cover over the VP-44. To do this, you remove the black plastic screw AND the screw insert. You'll see it. When you take the screw out, just pry the insert out. It's similar to a plastic drywall anchor - nothing scary. After you get it out, this is what you'll see

DSC07696.jpg


The bottom cable is the TV cable

Here you can see the play in it or how loose it is. It's supposed to be pretty tight, not this loose

DSC07698.jpg


To make the adjustment, you have to remove the cable from the pin up front. You just push the cable towards the front of the truck and it'll push off

DSC07699.jpg


Here you can see what the cable looks like once off. You can see how it just pushes on there

DSC07700.jpg


Next, you remove the entire assemble from the back bracket. Just push the tabs in on both sides of the black cable and push it back. It comes out pretty easily. You may need a screwdriver to push up on the bottom one. You also get a pretty good look at the white plastic clip that you'll hafta remove. Just pull straight up on it, it'll come right off.

DSC07701.jpg


Ok - Here we go. NOW we're getting to it

You see that white clip ( sorry for the crappy pic ). That white clip is how you make the adjustments. THIS is the part that I didn't get !!

See how the clip is all twisted looking? It is NOT supposed to be that way !!

Here's what's happening - inside of the cable, there are a bunch of 'teeth' that run along the cable. The white plastic clip ALSO has teeth. What you need to do to make the adjustment is to first remove the white plastic clip, push the inside of the cable up, or back, ( it's spring loaded ), and once you get it to where you want it, you then re-slide the white plastic clip in to hold it in place

DUH !!!

Here's the pic

DSC07702.jpg


I didn't get a good shot of the teeth, but here you can see the piston inside of the cable ( through the slits ). The cable pictured here has the piston all the way to the back. You can't even put the clip in now as it would hit the piston

DSC07703.jpg


You can kinda see the beginning of the teeth here. Had I known at the time how important they are / were, I would have taken a better pic

DSC07705.jpg


Shot of the side of the cable

DSC07704.jpg


Here you can see that I'm kinda pushing the piston up. It's now almost in the center. Still can't get the clip in ( this is how I figured it out as I WAS trying to get the clip in !! )

DSC07707.jpg


Here's a shot of the back end. NOW you can see the spring loaded portion of it

DSC07709.jpg


Back together and as you can see it's a little tighter

DSC07710.jpg



It still wasn't adjusted right as I was taking these pics. Remember, as I was taking these pics, I didn't realize what I was doing / taking pics of until AFTER I put it all back together, otherwise I would have taken more pics.

It was THIS cable adjustment that made my pedal stiff. If the cable is too tight, it makes for a stiff pedal. What I also learned is that if it is too loose, it  makes for a smooth pedal, but the shifts are kinda soft and it did the whole 'double first' shift thing again

I have it set pretty much right in the middle and it is MUCH better !! :up:

AGAIN, I want to THANK RICH for ALL of his help here !! Had it not been for RICH ( NOT Suncoast ), I never would have been able to fix my trans.

THANK YOU RICH !! :cheers:

Had it not been for this Rich's tireless and PATIENT assistance, I never would have gotten this taken care of

HAPPY AS A LARK driving my stock Dodge Ram .... Hmmmm ....

Thanks again Rich !!
Click to expand...
 
Wow that is great stuff but now I'm habing another problem and not sure if it's the tranny or not. When I go to hit WOT like to get on the highway or pass someone the truck starts bucking. It's kinda of a cross between it's either dying from lack of fuel(oyyy ) or Trans is not letting it shift but if trans wasn't letting it shift I'm thinking I would just have seady high rpms not bucking. This was roughly between 2500-2800 rpms. What do you think ? I'm afriad to say Lift pump cause that could mean IP damage as well. I drove it nice and easy to the dealer where I bought it so we'll see. It's still under warranty for 30 more days. It drives fine under normal driving but when you go to open it up feels like almost a gov holding it back or something ???
 
Any codes?

Usually if the IP is dying, you get the dreaded P0216 Injection Pump Timing Failure.

Do the key trick and see if anything comes up on the odometer.

Normally you get a dead pedal condition that comes with it.

I would certainly get that fuel pressure checked ASAP though.
 
off-run-off-run-off-run (leave it in run this time)

Do that within 5 seconds and it should display any codes on the odometer.

Just go to the run position, do not start.

Another key trick is the check the instrument cluster.

Hold the odometer button down and it will cycle all gauges and lights and do a self diagnostic.
 
It'll display the code, if there is another it displays it and then you see "done" and the odometer goes back to normal.

Remember, it has to be done within 5 seconds.
 
OK. Truck is at the dealer right now but when I get it back I'll see what happens. It's still under warranty but that doesn't mean it's going to be fixed properly.
 
Sorry to hear of your misfortune Aces. I always wanted a cummins, but if i got one id want it to be a powerhouse. Sounds like the trannys need to be gone through. Are the standard trannies better? I do eventually want to get an 02 vintage model..
 
From My research(and my knowledge is limited as a newbie) The 47re behind the stock powerplant is not that bad. It's when you start adding seriuos HP. You can upgrade the tranny to full billet and build a pretty good unit for some seriuos money(3-4K). Standards a good way to go as long as you don't have wife that can't drive one.
 
OK Update. Dealer called and is not happy. Truck needs a new IP(2k$$ :eek: ) And a valve body mod. He said something about replacing the manaul spool valve or something. The funny part is I paid an extra 500$ for the truck for 60 day/3k warranty. Boy did that pay off. He said the lift pump is good but was going to change it anyway so I cut a deal with him to install the Raptor while it's there. My question is how did the IP fail at 68k if the LP was putting out 10 psi ? Only thing I can guess is maybe PO had the LP die, cheanged it, didn't like the way the truck ran and off the the auction it went. DO the VP44's normally die that early with a good LP ? Tune is stock on the truck.
 
More than likely what gave out on the VP was probably the diaphragm then.

This could be caused by dirty fuel, crappy filters, who knows. Without pulling the VP apart, it would be just a guess, but the part that usuually fails, if not due to a bad LP, is the diaphragm.

The problem the VP's have is the ULSD. The LSD used to keep the seals lubricated and the sulfphur in the fuel made the seals and gaskets swell. When they switched to the ULSD, this is when you really started seeing problems with the older o-rings, seals, gaskets, etc.

What happens is the ULSD, containing much less sulphur, actually draws it out of the seals and this hardens and cracks things.

With a new VP that hasn't been run on LSD, you shouldn't have the problem.

The VP's, if they have a good LP, usually don't die that early. As long as they have a good, clean fuel supply they do okay.
 
Would using 2 stroke oil have hurt it. I was using it at 128:1. Alot of dodge owners as well as other diesel owners seem to think that helps with ULSD. Could that have contributed to it ? I only ran two tanks worth.
 
No, if anything that would have helped it. Although, it's more for the pump and injector mechanicals than the seals.

I run 1 qt of 2-stroke in every tank. Basically 1 oz per gal of fuel.
 
How hard is an IP to do on these anyway ? Do you have to remove the timing case cover ? I assume I'll have to do anotehr one sooner or later ?
 
Well, Update. This truck had a bad IP from the day I drove it off the lot because what a difference. When I first got this truck it never really seemed to have the power I expected it to have. I mean my 6.5 was more powerful. It didn't get good fuel mileage either like every says they do. To be honest I was not impressed with this truck after buying it and driving it around. well when I picked it up today with the new IP it was like night and day. The truck literally throws you back in the seat. YTossed the dealer a few extra bucks and had him put the Raptor on figuring the way I procrastinate it's worth the money. So the truck should be good to go. Still seems like it will downshift every easily so I'm wondering if the TV cable needs further adj. I will try to jot down some shift points. Truck has unbelivable power. I was under the impression that when the VP44 dies, it dies. Is it possible that this thing was messed and was still able to do a 3 hr trip towing a camper ? I mean the truck was a bit of a dog towing and mileage sucked but it did it. I can't wait to see how it tows now.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top