• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

47RE sluggish into gear cold.

Talked to ernie at Suncoast. Very helpful. Siad dodge trannys are fine until you start building the HP then you need to build the tranny. Anyway Long story short the Dodge dealer(not where I bought the truck) said there is a TSB to address the lag engagement drainback by replacing the tranny cooler lines with updates ones that have a check valve but someone(can't remember who) said the check valve can f'up and burn the tranny up so maybe I should get a VB and call it a day. The Suncoast VB looks to be the easiest to install. No resistor, no pressure checks etc and it runs fliud even in park.
438$ if i reuse my sol's. What do you think ?
Also dealer said TV(kickdown?) cable needs adj. I hear they are a PIA. Figures. Even on the old 727s the kickdown rod sucked. Usually had to put a nut and bolt in the slot.
 
Acesneights1 said:
What do you think ?
Also dealer said TV(kickdown?) cable needs adj. I hear they are a PIA. Figures. Even on the old 727s the kickdown rod sucked. Usually had to put a nut and bolt in the slot.
Click to expand...

Well, ya see what's in my signature and you've seen some of the crap I do to my truck, so that should tell ya how I feel about SunCoast.

Bottom line: I'd buy another one.

And yes, the kickdown (TV) cable is a PITA. Just a few weeks ago I was talking my buddy Donny through adjusting his after he replaced the VB. He's certainly not an idiot, but explaining how to do it and talk him through adjusting over the phone was interesting. I finally made him take me a few pictures so I could draw on them and send them back to him to look at.

Once he saw what I meant by the detents in the cable where it connects to the kickdown bracket (under that black plastic cover on the driver side of the engine) he was able to get it right.

Just remember, every 1/8" of movement in that cable adjusts the shift point up or down by ~75 RPM.
 
So what do you think about the check valve, tranny cooler line update Dodge is talking about ? To me that still doesn't pump fliud in park. Also Dodge is not known for actually curing problems with updates. IN most cases they make is worse(Jeep Liberty CRD, Lift pump moved to fuel tAnk on our trucks with cheap POS). That check valve to me sounds like an issue itself to happen.
 
Yeah I'm leanin real hard on the suncoast. The BD looks like a PIA to put in. But then again I may just get a price on having the VB put in. I don't have an inch lb torque wrench , so that's 100-200$ just to buy for a one shot deal alone.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Yeah I'm leanin real hard on the suncoast. The BD looks like a PIA to put in. But then again I may just get a price on having the VB put in. I don't have an inch lb torque wrench , so that's 100-200$ just to buy for a one shot deal alone.
Click to expand...

Autozone, Advance, NAPA, O'Reilly.....

They should all have one to rent.

No need to buy one time use tools.

:thumbsup:
 
Acesneights1 said:
What do you think of that whole check valve in the tranny cooler line thing ? I'm not sure I like that idea.
Click to expand...

Honestly, I'm not sure............

I'm looking at it from 2 sides and both have positives and negatives to them, but I'm coming up with more AGAINST doing the check valve than I am FOR it.

Personally, I don't think I'd do the check valve. I'd just do the VB and KNOW that fluid is always flowing rather than HOPING that it is.
 
That's what I'm thinking. Here's the TSBs if anyone is interested. The more Dodge owners I talk to the more guys I find that say "yeah mine does that too, always did."
 

Attachments

  • File0127.pdf
    297.3 KB · Views: 6
Cumminalong said:
Well, ya see what's in my signature and you've seen some of the crap I do to my truck, so that should tell ya how I feel about SunCoast.

Bottom line: I'd buy another one.

And yes, the kickdown (TV) cable is a PITA. Just a few weeks ago I was talking my buddy Donny through adjusting his after he replaced the VB. He's certainly not an idiot, but explaining how to do it and talk him through adjusting over the phone was interesting. I finally made him take me a few pictures so I could draw on them and send them back to him to look at.

Once he saw what I meant by the detents in the cable where it connects to the kickdown bracket (under that black plastic cover on the driver side of the engine) he was able to get it right.

Just remember, every 1/8" of movement in that cable adjusts the shift point up or down by ~75 RPM.
Click to expand...

I might need those pics. What valve body did he use ? Does he like it ?
 
The way it SHOULD be adjusted takes 2 people.....

You take off the black plastic cover and they are two cables, three if you have cruise control.

There is a big on, this is your throttle cable. A smaller one closer to the engine, this is your speed control. The third is below the throttle cable and has a square connector tab, this is your kickdown cable.

Have your buddy floorboard the throttle and check for slack. There should be NO slack at WOT. If there is, it REALLY needs adjustment. It shouldn't have much slack from approx 3/4 throttle and above. This is where the adjustments need to occur. Proceed below....

You remove the cable by pulling the plastic tab at the end of the cable toward the front of the engine. It'll pop off.

Then you release the two tabs on the square clip and the cable comes out of the bracket.

Once you get the cable out, MARK the cables current position.

Now, there is a little white clip that needs to come off. BE CAREFUL pulling this off, it's what holds the TV cable in adjustment. Don't break it.

Once the white clip is off, the cable is going to try to move rearward, it's spring loaded. This is why you mark the cables position BEFORE pulling the clip off.

Now lookinging into the adjustment housing, you can see some small teeth. These "teeth" are engaged by the white clip. You simply slided the cable forward or backward to adjust it and put the clip back in and reattach the cable.

Each 1/8" movement will raise or lower the shift point ~75 RPM's. Tightening the cable decreases the shift point, loosening the cable increase the shift point.
 
At WOT it should be shifting between 2800 - 3000 RPM's.

The kickdown cable only contols those WOT throttle shifts.

If you want to adjust your part throttle shifts, you have the do that on the throttle valve itself.
 
Correct. That's all you "should" need to adjust.

I'll get the spec for the proper adjustment on the throttle valve when I get home.

You definitely want to check it prior to installing the valve body. Once it's in, the only way to adjust it is to drain the trans and drop the pan.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top