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350 to 6.5 conversion/electric to mechanical

brownpaden

brownpaden

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Location
Rochester TX
kinda posted this in the intro side to, but anyway, sig says what i have done to the motor so far, this is an easy swap all take off and replace, waiting on egt gauge and for me to get out in the sun and wire the pump starter and g-plugs up, plan on turning this 4911 ip up as much as possible, and advance the timing to my liking, i need a better turbo i know...hx40?? still need mandrell crossover pipe and il deal with exhaust later, i took the thermostat out last summer and seen no changes in cooling or heating, constant 210, i plan on water injection instead of intercooler because i have no ac so radiator should flow way better, also no oil cooler for engine, so coolant mods are a must i know just low on cash at the moment, but west texas heats a mother... i just need some incite on what else i could do to it to get the most out of it, not worried bout mileage with it being a single cab half ton and i dont pay for fuel anyway, everyone please feel free to chime in and put their 2 cents in be it negative or positive, bla bla overboost i know but i gotta mix somethin with the diesel to thin it out, including propane... please fill me in on prior self incidences motor was rebuilt but i dont know when, my 94 body just started falling apart and the driver door fell off one day when i opened it lol so swap had to be done and just gave me a reason to get the 4911 :thumbsup: and now no more worrying about the 4l80e so... let me know somethin!
 
I think guys are using the Racor aftermarket with a water separator, at least some that have ditched the OE FFM (fuel filter/manager)

"In tank pumps" are not used in the OE diesel trucks. Stock configuration is a Lift pump (should be around 5psi at all times) frame mounted under the driver seat location. Several different pumps to use. Many use a Walbro.

Lots of chassis electrical differences you'll need to address in a conversion.

It's been proven a single 'stat and H.O. water pump is a real good setup for cooling.

You will definitely need to get the fuel system in order. A diesel OE pickup assembly will fit your current tank. You'll need a diesel filler neck, etc.

Use that oil cooler also. Fairly easy to rid of the OE aluminum leakers and do totally aftermarket with simple fittings and plumbing there.

Many of these parts are available from a vendor here, and a knowledgeable 6.5 guy, Burning Oil.



 
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got all that covered right here ;) except the water separator, got the lift pump in origional spot, its the same threads as the gasoline filter, gonna put the other one up close to the pump to prevent fuel drop, gonna fab me up some oil cooler lines soon as well
 
my damn flywheel was suppose to be here already, thats what has me lazy and not out there working on it at this moment..still worried bout the stall converter, im sure its pretty low, just dont wanna cook it, my new truck had a new jasper 700r4 put in it before this old man gave me this truck so it should be ok...
 
If you are running a 700R4 behind a 6.5TD, especially one that's been modded for more HP and torque, I would be very, very concerned about burning out that transmission in short order, whatever type of torque converter you're using not withstanding. That much torque down low will eat the OD section of a 700R4 for breakfast and crap out transmission friction material and parts by mid-morning snack time if you run in OD with any kind of load (even high speed wind resistance) on a stock or stock rebuild (like a Jasper). If you are serious about running a 700R4 behind a 6.5TD you need to get a 700R4 that has been rebuilt to racing specs and designed to handle at least 400HP, not because of the HP of the 6.5, but because of the torque associated with 400HP gassers is the same as a 6.5's stock torque. Even then, you can't go much past stock HP levels with the 6.5 before torque gets too much even for a built 700R4, again because of the amount of torque and where in the RPM band it occurs for the 700R4 internals to handle it.

At the very least, you need to add a 3-4 qt deep pan to the tranny and the biggest transmission cooler (GVW rating, not size) you can find to have a chance at keeping your transmission alive. Yes, GM ran 700R4's behind 6.2NA's, but the torque of a 6.2NA is about 200lb/ft less than a stock 6.5TD.

I built a 327/325 for my Chevy G20 conversion van several years ago to replace the anemic 140 HP 305 in it so I could tow occasionally my son's Scout Troop equipment trailer. In normal driving, that 327 caused the entire OD section to cease functioning after 15,000 miles and the torque converter lock up clutch to fail after 18,000 miles. THEN I decided (too late) that perhaps I should have beefed up the transmission to handle the additional HP and torque.
 
good info on that tranny, thats what i have been worried about, i never tow, and this truck is just a half ton single cab so thats a lot less weight than my 1 ton the motor came outa, i figured as long as i kept an eye on the temps and didnt run anything bigger than the 33 inch tires on the truck it could last till i can get a mod for my 4l80e outa my doner truck
 
Yep stock form 700's aren't much. MANY aftermarket improvements have come about over the years.

It is of extreme importance that you have the throttle valve cable hooked up properly.. Correct geometry and all. Lots of 'to-do' about this subject on the Innerwebs.
 
I've spent thousands on 700r 4's... The last one I had built, I had a TCI constant pressure valve body put into it along with the 5 pinion planetary's, beast sun shell, corvette servo, bigger boost valve, all the TCI racing clutches / bands... I tore that tranny up with a TBI 350 in a Yukon plowing snow ...

I still love the 700's, but wouldn't use them in any heavy vehicle EVER again.. I did have a stock 4l60e hold up OK in an S-10 with a 400 sb .. anything full size anymore will be 4L80e / 85e at the least..
 
brownpaden said:
good info on that tranny, thats what i have been worried about, i never tow, and this truck is just a half ton single cab so thats a lot less weight than my 1 ton the motor came outa, i figured as long as i kept an eye on the temps and didnt run anything bigger than the 33 inch tires on the truck it could last till i can get a mod for my 4l80e outa my doner truck
Click to expand...

With those 33's on there, if it was me, I'd BABY that mother like there was a raw egg under my right foot until I got a 4L80 or an NV4500 into the truck, ESPECIALLY if that '89 is running a 3.08 rear, I'd even keep it OUT of OD at anything under 70mph for fear of shredding that 700R4. See the posts above.
 
damn yall are scaring me lol ugh i dont wanna have to mess with that 4l80e but at least i got it i guess... once i put it in il most likely put the rest of the drive train from the doner truck as well so i have the 8 lug pattern
 
there are many things id like from his site lol but im on more than a tight budget at the moment but is going to happen...put starter in earlier but the weather has been horrible and i was about to blow away so first start up as been delayed...
 
You can always put a TransGo full manual valve body kit in the 4L80E and row your own gears.
 
Husker6.5 said:
You can always put a TransGo full manual valve body kit in the 4L80E and row your own gears.
Click to expand...
thinking of that too... i have a problem getting the truck to start now, my pump has 2 lines scribed into it so im not sure which one to use, its pumping out white smoke trying to crank so i figure i got advanced or something....
 
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