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2000 CCLB 6.5 on craigslist

i was just checking out the pics of warwagons carnage in his motor and it got me thinking that i bet he had the egts way to high in this truck while plowing. there are no gauges
 
chevyCowboy said:
i was just checking out the pics of warwagons carnage in his motor and it got me thinking that i bet he had the egts way to high in this truck while plowing. there are no gauges
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You are not going to get this truck back on the road for less than $4000.00. Truck purchase price, used engine, and other misc parts.

Have you sent in an oil sample for analysis?

Not Plowing: Pulling a trailer to Payson on that hard pull hill... (That hill eats Dodge trucks for lunch.) The boost gauge is mounted on top of the dash over the Speedo. The EGT gauge is mounted to it and waiting for the needed new manifold to arrive before probe install just below the turbo. The quick and dirty crossover mounting idea needs to be a sticky.

In any case 2 people with ether to start the engine and only 1 blown piston. This melted down the starter and was well worth it to get it on the trailer. Looks like the passenger side GP bank may have been out or down 1-2 plugs due to wires burnt up from bad RH manifold.

I have a new manifold sitting in the ‘shop’ next to the truck w/o engine.

I am buried in the truck with a rebuilt trans, damper, HO water pump, fan and Kennedy clutch, radiator, condenser, injectors, hoses, TM… My intended use justifies the cost as does the fact I own the SOB outright.

So spending $4000 for a running truck off fleabay is an option for you. Add $2000 in repairs a used vehicle will cost you…

Otherwise imagine you are buying MY truck that you need to throw away the engine long block. Blue book matters when you sell it and find a buyer willing to pay. Engines can cost $1500 for military take outs to nearly $6500.00 for an Optimizer block. Converted 6.2 Heath Diesel rebuilds can cost from $2500 to $3500 with all the goodies like main/head studs and ceramic pistons balanced.

If you are willing to pull the engine this is a good deal. I do not think pulling an engine is ‘fun’ but my budget says no to paying someone to do it.

In any case you can part out the truck for 2K. It is clear the engine needs to be pulled just from the blow by described. Maybe you will get lucky and just need a piston set.
 
WarWagon said:
You are not going to get this truck back on the road for less than $4000.00. Truck purchase price, used engine, and other misc parts.

Have you sent in an oil sample for analysis?

Not Plowing: Pulling a trailer to Payson on that hard pull hill... (That hill eats Dodge trucks for lunch.) The boost gauge is mounted on top of the dash over the Speedo. The EGT gauge is mounted to it and waiting for the needed new manifold to arrive before probe install just below the turbo. The quick and dirty crossover mounting idea needs to be a sticky.

In any case 2 people with ether to start the engine and only 1 blown piston. This melted down the starter and was well worth it to get it on the trailer. Looks like the passenger side GP bank may have been out or down 1-2 plugs due to wires burnt up from bad RH manifold.

I have a new manifold sitting in the ‘shop’ next to the truck w/o engine.

I am buried in the truck with a rebuilt trans, damper, HO water pump, fan and Kennedy clutch, radiator, condenser, injectors, hoses, TM… My intended use justifies the cost as does the fact I own the SOB outright.

So spending $4000 for a running truck off fleabay is an option for you. Add $2000 in repairs a used vehicle will cost you…

Otherwise imagine you are buying MY truck that you need to throw away the engine long block. Blue book matters when you sell it and find a buyer willing to pay. Engines can cost $1500 for military take outs to nearly $6500.00 for an Optimizer block. Converted 6.2 Heath Diesel rebuilds can cost from $2500 to $3500 with all the goodies like main/head studs and ceramic pistons balanced.

If you are willing to pull the engine this is a good deal. I do not think pulling an engine is ‘fun’ but my budget says no to paying someone to do it.

In any case you can part out the truck for 2K. It is clear the engine needs to be pulled just from the blow by described. Maybe you will get lucky and just need a piston set.
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i wasnt refuring to yours getting to hot plowing (i knew it was from hauling up the hills) but this truck running for long times with the plow on in the raised position posibly pulling a trailer can cause high temps really fast. l have a friend that has a running 6.5 with 100k on it that he will sell for $500
 
hes only about 4 to 5 hrs from me. i talked to my buddy ealier today and he gave me that price now he might want more. he is into buying and selling parts and trucks he has loads of 6.5 parts.
 
From my experience Plowing itself does little to overheat a 6.5.

However, driving over the road WITH the plow on causes MASSIVE overheating possibiliies, Coolant temps, not EGT's, as it blocks cool air flow, and with a high engaging fan clutch temps can easily reach 230+ with plow on, road driving, and fan clutch not engaging.
 
chevyCowboy said:
hes only about 4 to 5 hrs from me. i talked to my buddy ealier today and he gave me that price now he might want more. he is into buying and selling parts and trucks he has loads of 6.5 parts.
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his name wouldnt happen to be mitchell would it? If it is, I saw his CL add for the 3500HD he is parting.
 
Matt Bachand said:
From my experience Plowing itself does little to overheat a 6.5.

However, driving over the road WITH the plow on causes MASSIVE overheating possibiliies, Coolant temps, not EGT's, as it blocks cool air flow, and with a high engaging fan clutch temps can easily reach 230+ with plow on, road driving, and fan clutch not engaging.
Click to expand...

ya that is what i am thinking it dont matter how it gets hot. we all agree that geting a 6.5 hot is a very bad thing.
 
My friend bought a 96 6.5 1500 a while ago that had been sitting for a long time (6-8 months). We knew it needed a IP but once I put it in and got it all back together it still wouldn't start. Turns out the injectors gummed up from sitting.

On the blown engine part, when I broke my truck I parked it at my shop for about a week before I got to start tearing into it. It was maybe 5* out, not plugged in, only 6 working glows, cracked piston and weak batteries and it still started it just took cranking it a couple times.

Trying to start a diesel on ether/starting fluid will make it ping and sound like all holy hell is comming apart in the motor. If it sounds fine while cranking it normal than it probably is.

The trying to heat the intake idea is a good one the only problem is a hair dryer aint gonna be enough. I would use a propane torch just be careful of the sensors. If you really wanna try to get some marvel into the cylinders just pull the upper intake off (a whole what 7 bolts) and pour a little down each intake runner then crank it a little so that the oil gets past the intake valves on all the cylinders.

My money says it needs a IP, PMD, Injectors, Glows and Flush the old fuel out. I have another buddy with a 6.5 with 230k on it that would blow the dipstick out a little when you were hard on it, replaced the CDR and it hasn't done it since.

If it were only closer I wouldn't be giving you all this advise I would be buying it....LOL
 
Well the truck is in my possesion now i hauled it home with a friends Duramax. almost had to have another buddy tow it with his powerjoke, glad the d-max came through. was planning to take a pic of it on the trailer but forgot to was sort of running out of time yesterday
 
Well i finnally spent some time working on this truck over the weekend, fellow memeber ScreaminXL came into town and we took a peak at into why it wont start. I bought 2 brand new batteries and hooked them up and the thing turned over way to slow, had the Glows disabled and gave it a shot of ether and it didnt even what to try and fire on that. Also there is a ton of blow by out the CDR and it smells very strongly of diesel/ether so there has got to be a hole in something.

As of now the plan is to pull the motor and tear it down, to see what the real issue is and then depending on the way things go i can use spare parts that i have and get it together or buy a used running motor. i will start a new thread when i finally get around to diving into this project
 
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