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1997 6.5 Suburban with no brake lights

M

mjmmjm

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Hi, all. The brake lights on my '97 stopped working, but all the other lights work. Before I condemn the switch at the brake pedal, I'd like to check for power out of it at the relay terminals. There's no brake relay in the fuse/relay box under the hood (driver's side), and no female terminals in it to receive a relay anyway, even though the cover diagram says it should be there. Does anyone know where the brake light relay is located? Thanks in advance.
 
It's the switch. I jumpered the orange and white at the switch connector and got brake lights back. I have a vague recollection from years ago, when I replaced the switch before, of losing a really thin metal bushing that slips over the post where the switch sits before you put the switch on. Does anyone know anything about a bushing?
 
IMG_2702.jpegIMG_2701.jpegNone is supposed to be there. the pedal arm only has the rod that goes to the master cylinder, then the brake switch, then the metal retaining clip. There is no bushing, no washers, nothing else.

Use a pick hook to make undoing the retaining clip easier, then rotate the brake switch to get the plastic hook that holds onto the rod free. Then it’s easier to undo the harness connector. Then the switch slides off. Slide on new switch, clipping the plastic hook onto the rod. Then put the electrical connection back in (much easier with the switch hooked) then fight the clip- usually dropping it two to three times in the process.
It’s important to remember to bang your head a couple times, and wish that when you were a kid you had learned to become a contortionist. Pick your angry words before starting so your dog (or cat in Marty’s case) doesn’t think they are in trouble.

I circled in blue the plastic hook built into the switch that holds the arm.
 
I started thinking about it- the while series of trucks, suburbans all through the 90s used the same switch & clip afaik. (Had to be someone do a video…) Really I give credit to them because design is simple & cheap - then lasts an impressive long life. Only bad part is getting the body to a position of access. I tried across the floorboard, lay on back, truck on lift a little, truck on ground and kneeling, and even upside down on the seat.
Can’t blame GM for that- just is what it is.

Anyways- a quick YouTube search and found this video. Pretty good iob of it hut unrealistic that he didn’t drop the clip or yell at all. Haha
Notice there is no bushing involved.
 
Will L. said:
View attachment 91627View attachment 91628None is supposed to be there. the pedal arm only has the rod that goes to the master cylinder, then the brake switch, then the metal retaining clip. There is no bushing, no washers, nothing else.

Use a pick hook to make undoing the retaining clip easier, then rotate the brake switch to get the plastic hook that holds onto the rod free. Then it’s easier to undo the harness connector. Then the switch slides off. Slide on new switch, clipping the plastic hook onto the rod. Then put the electrical connection back in (much easier with the switch hooked) then fight the clip- usually dropping it two to three times in the process.
It’s important to remember to bang your head a couple times, and wish that when you were a kid you had learned to become a contortionist. Pick your angry words before starting so your dog (or cat in Marty’s case) doesn’t think they are in trouble.

I circled in blue the plastic hook built into the switch that holds the arm.
Click to expand...
Oh, got two cats, plus the neighbors cat most the time, plus, two dogs.
Cats get curious and excited when theres more noise and things moving, dogs, yup, they RUN~N~HIDE. 😹
 
from what I remember there is a spring washer in there on the pin that holds the brake pedal to the rod which also holds the switch in place. when I had to do mine it was a PIA to say the least. only room for one hand in there and it's a guarantee you'll get a hand cramp with all the contorting you have to do with the fingers to get it all into place!

iirc the rod from the brake booster has a clevis where the pedal, switch, and spring washer all fit into the clevis, pin holds it all in place and the clip which is a PIA to get off and back on keeps the pin from walking back out.
 
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