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1995 6.5TD chevy sub wont start *** URGENT PLEASE ***

S

seza

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Location
England
Hi all,

Today - all of the sudden my 1995 chevy 6.5TD sub K1500 4x4 (mechanical IP) wont start for love of for money,

it started fine first thing in the morning, drove ok for most of the day then refused to start later in the day.

the only thing that changed recently is the fuel - where I am now fuel can be bad sometimes.

I noticed this morning water droplets were coming from the exhaust pipe

:: it fires ok - batt and starter motor all seem ok
:: I opened the f filter, all seems ok - no water
:: lift pump works ok as the fuel shoot up when I crank up the engine
:: shut off selenoid - seems to be ok as it clicks when we turn the key
:: there is NO fuel coming to the injectors when I crank up the engine

PLEASE HELP - I desperately need the big girl up and running.

thank you
 
for sure there is no fuel reaching the injectors, all else seem to be fine ... very strange
 
Sticking (shut) metering valve in IP is possible.
Possible you have a head and rotor wear issue that will not start hot.
Check the fuel filter as it can plug solid and stall the engine.
 
I recently changed the fuel f - visually it is looking ok,
are the other items seviceable?

How about if I disconnect both batteries to reset the ECU - would that cause any other issues?
 
Is it cold? Have you checked your glow plugs?

Check for voltage or continuity from the controller to the plugs. Check each individual plug for continuity. As you pull each spade connector to check for continuity from the controller, then check to see that you have continuity from the spade on the glow plug to ground anywhere.

Have you load tested the batteries?

Battery connections? You can load test at the starter. That will tell you if there is something wrong between the battery and the starter.

If you have dual posts be sure to load test on the posts you are using. One set can test good while the other tests bad.

Have you tried starting with the lift pump hotwired?

Have you run a 1/2 gallon of fuel out the drain into a clear container and let it sit for 20 minutes or so? You can look for water balls and crud at the bottom of the container. - I've had vehicles start after doing that alone.

Very basic stuff, but you have to start someplace.
 
Glow plug and Service engine soon light show up on key on lamp test?
 
Who put the Mech IP in for you and how many miles are on the IP (as in was it new when installed). 95's do not have a mech IP from the factory.

Re setting the ECU would do nothing in your case since the computer has nothing to do with a Mech IP.
 
Mine would do simular. It was a nasty tank sock. Fuel would slowly fill the lines when truck was off, but when you fired it up it would run for awhile then just die. I swore it was a PMD, but nope just a nasty sock.
 
If it is cold and still not starting... You appear to have fuel to it.
The pink wire goes to the lower conector on the ip. Green wire from cold start switch goes to the upper connector and fast idle solenoid.
Verify a click from the pink wire and 12v to it. Verify voltage while cranking as a bad connection can drop out the solenoid from the voltage drop seen with the starter running. We have had 1 other person stall the engine by reversing these wires and the cold start switch opened killing the engine...

Next put a clear return line on the ip. Check for fuel flow while cranking. This make sure you have fuel to the IP AND that the IP is turning without a sheared pin or busted drive shaft.

Make sure you have 100 RPM min while cranking.

Glow plugs working?

Last, pop the top of the IP and manually work the metering valve. Make sure it is working by a click when you put the top back on the IP or it will run away and shut off only from lack of air or scattering the engine.
 
tanman_2006 said:
Who put the Mech IP in for you and how many miles are on the IP (as in was it new when installed). 95's do not have a mech IP from the factory.

Re setting the ECU would do nothing in your case since the computer has nothing to do with a Mech IP.
Click to expand...

Not all 95's are electric...............

Dad has a 95 G20 that is ALL mechanical. LP and IP. It is however non turbo. And yes it has the covented comp for the 4L80E..............
 
625fireman said:
Not all 95's are electric...............

Dad has a 95 G20 that is ALL mechanical. LP and IP. It is however non turbo. And yes it has the covented comp for the 4L80E..............
Click to expand...



And yes it has the covented comp for the 4L80E............
What?


All 94&^ trucks were electronic, vans still had db2 til 96 I think.
 
Thank you all guys - all good now, th big chevy has started fine,
we shorted the shut off selenoid with the battery and also disconnected and reconnected both batteries.
 
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