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1986 Chevy C60 Dump Truck

J

Jim V

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Hi everyone. I just bought this for weekend use on my New Hampshire property. I didn’t know anything about an older Detroit diesel until after I made the purchase and started researching these engines. It has an 8.2 with some Canadian labels that look like a remanufactured deal in 1989? Anyway, it runs great, I changed the fluids with recommended correct oil, coolant, etc. Hoping for good luck with it.
 
Find You an original GM workshop manual on that engine. Look up the tooling required to do a rack and injection pump adjustment.
They are quite a simple engine and when properly tuned they run just great.
I mechd for the DOT over here and would tune these old engines when required according to the PM schedule.
The drivers were mostly assigned to a truck. They loved it when I would do a tune on their 8.2 Detroit. I would set the high idle at the highest allowable maximum RPMs. Never had one blow up or fail to run due to the high end tune.
If I thought I could plant one of these engines into My 2000 K3500 it would get one.
I used to have both the service manuals on these engines as the schools we went to gave each attendee the books. The shop also had their set of books so I took mine home. Later a friend that has a diesel repair shop asked me how familiar I was with these engines, I gave Him My books.
You have a most wonderful looking truck.
 
The 8.2 is really a big brother in similar idea of fuel efficiency instead of high power, and suffers same faulting areas, although for slightly different reasons.

the crankshafts break- so inspect your harmonic balancer frequently. First sign of the rubber cracking- replace it. Parts getting harder to find, you might start shopping now for one. Other than the rubber going bad, there is no warning, and with this engine- the balancer goes at 9:00 am and the engine is done at 9:03.

The other issue is heat and a weak head gasket design. The only thing you can do for this without upper end rebuild is keep the turbo boost low, and keep the engine temperature low. I like the 8., it is a nice engine when everything is in check. But they pop headgaskets like no other Detroit ever, Seriously worse Detroit for this.

If you ever pull the heads- get the thickest gasket you can for it (used to be a 20 thou over) and put head studs in. That open floating cylinder design doesn’t seal well on the gasket in the first place, then only 4 bolts per cylinder was poor design.

At the first sign of overheating, stop! These engines hydrolock pretty bad from it. If you catch it quickly- studs and headgasket with intake gasket is all you need.

do not push this engine to high rpm. Drive it like a 90 year old granny who left early but doesn’t want to be the first one to church.

When the engine is new- they could be ran hard, but man the ones I had in my fleet were all over 100,000 miles and didn’t stand up well. Could be the high heat here really beat them up?
 
We had probably 30 or 40 of these engines in the 7500 series and also the topkicks. We never had any issues with heating, head gaskets or busting cranks. That is why I thought they are such a pretty good engine.
I still think it would be entertaining to stuff one in My K3500. Biggest problem I guess would be finding enough room.
 
Rocker covers removed, when running the rack on one of these. I dont remember the entire procedure.
There is two pins with springs attached to the ends, one end goes into a hole at the end of the rack shaft. A clamp is loosened that controls the rack at the governor. Then, each individual rack is checked to make sure it is bottomed out, there will be no inwards movement on the rack at each injector. If there is then that individual rack needs to be adjusted until it does not budge inwards.
I dont rightly remember the rest of the procedure except that the clamp inside the governor housing then needs to be tightened.
It also seems that is where that extra 2 to 400 RPMs can be gained that the truck drivers seemed to love so much.
There too is a step to be sure that the throttle will not be in the full fuel position and cause a runaway when the engine is first started after the tune up. This is where it is recommended to not have the air filter installed and to have a square cut piece of plywood handy just in case a runaway ensues.
I dont know, maybe with a tube style front four wheel drive axle from like a 7000 series under the front of the 2000 K3500 then a suspension could be built up to support a 8.3 diesel.
I like the comfort zone, like why I chose the 6.5 as the platform for a diesel truck. I am a little bit familiar with them and that removes a lot of the fear factor when it comes time to work on them.
 
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