trouttrooper
Big Blocks ROCK!!!
Beat the piss out of it......
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
'06 2500HD Brakes
- Thread starter btfarm
- Start date
Beat the piss out of it......
btfarm
America First!
Started on it after work and took tomorrow off. I couldn't go another day with the RR inner pad grinding down the rotor. I have new rear rotors on hand. Fronts are fine and the anchor bolts came out easy. I will just replace the pads and clean/lube the calipers. I soaked the housing and anchor bolts well with Chemsearch Yield - a top notch penetrating oil that has never failed me in any reasonable application. Broke the mounting bolts loose on the LH rear with a 24" breaker bar and 18" pipe on an 18mm socket. Got the lower anchor bolt loose with a T55 and the same breaker bar setup. You can't get to the upper anchor bolt until you take the assembly off which I did. I broke the upper one loose with the impact and T55. LH done with bolts. RR I did the same thing on the 18mm bolts and (you KNEW this was coming didn't you...) tried the impact on the lower anchor bolt instead of the breaker bar. No go with the impact and the T55 bit is now twisted (a $40 SnapOn one). Tried the breaker bar deal and the twisted bit won't stay in. I bought 2 bits but at this point I decided to soak it more overnight and get a fresh start tomorrow. Those T55s may have to come out after the surrounding casting gets a careful warmup with the torch.
trouttrooper
Big Blocks ROCK!!!
- Staff
- #24
Wow. Jeeeesh. Why didn't GM put a little lube on the threads at the factory? A little would have gone a long way. This has to be the same even for the mechanics at the dealerships! They must cringe when a truck comes in for a 4 wheel brake job. They must buy the tools by the dozens. Sometimes, I just don't understand. Maybe when you get a new vehicle, one must take everything apart, lube it with Never-seize or something similar, and then put it back together before you even drive it. :???:
john65td
Addicted to boost
best way i found to get the rotors off is a bfh and a pry bar i hold out the front edge and hit the back with a hammer the come off evenly and its a little easier but not much. as for the torx clean them out good so they so they don't strip and i usually break the bottom one loose and then flip the caliper up to acess the pads
btfarm
America First!
Git-er-Done
Turns out a fresh start in the AM was a good idea. The lower T55 anchor pin needed some heat so I took a torch to it and got it fairly hot. The impact got it out then.
At that point I took out the mounting bolts and flipped the ass'y up top andthe impact did fine with the upper without heat. Same as the LR shown below and you can see the heat screwed up the anchor boot but I had a few of those on hand from the '07 Tahoe brakes that were the same size.
These trucks have 2 different rotors called for for some odd reason that has to do with axle flanges being about 1/4" farther out on some. Carquest said they would stock both for me so I matched mine (with the longer axle ones). I used the air hammer around the lug studs to loosen the rotor and, as planned, beat the piss out of it like every other rotor I've ever removed with the same result. Eventually it comes off. Why rotors don't have 2 or 3 tapped holes to jack them out with IDK...Here is the height (width) comparison:
Make sure you take the cap off the master cylinder and push both pistons back in VERY SLOWLY
Here's what I used:
Put the new stuff together with plenty of white lube (because it's the type I like to use) especially on the clips, back contact surfaces of the pads, axle hub, & anchor pins. Here also is the new Vs old pins.
As I said in the original post, If it wasn't for the rears binding up, I easily could have gone over 300k with the fronts but while I was at it, I replaced them. They are real easy to do in minutes by just popping the caliper off, take the pads & clips out, clean & lube as mentioned above and put it back together. Here is a pic of the inner (left) and outer LF pad set (at 216,565 miles) with a new pad for comparison.
Total cost was about $350 for parts which included $90 for tools. That equals about $0.0016/mile or less than 2c/day over the total life of the truck. I can live with that.
Wasn't a bad job if you have a decent shop and the right tools. Wish I had a hoist though. I'm getting too old for this kneeling down to work crap. Even with a kneeling pad.
Turns out a fresh start in the AM was a good idea. The lower T55 anchor pin needed some heat so I took a torch to it and got it fairly hot. The impact got it out then.
At that point I took out the mounting bolts and flipped the ass'y up top andthe impact did fine with the upper without heat. Same as the LR shown below and you can see the heat screwed up the anchor boot but I had a few of those on hand from the '07 Tahoe brakes that were the same size.
These trucks have 2 different rotors called for for some odd reason that has to do with axle flanges being about 1/4" farther out on some. Carquest said they would stock both for me so I matched mine (with the longer axle ones). I used the air hammer around the lug studs to loosen the rotor and, as planned, beat the piss out of it like every other rotor I've ever removed with the same result. Eventually it comes off. Why rotors don't have 2 or 3 tapped holes to jack them out with IDK...Here is the height (width) comparison:
Make sure you take the cap off the master cylinder and push both pistons back in VERY SLOWLY
Here's what I used:
Put the new stuff together with plenty of white lube (because it's the type I like to use) especially on the clips, back contact surfaces of the pads, axle hub, & anchor pins. Here also is the new Vs old pins.
As I said in the original post, If it wasn't for the rears binding up, I easily could have gone over 300k with the fronts but while I was at it, I replaced them. They are real easy to do in minutes by just popping the caliper off, take the pads & clips out, clean & lube as mentioned above and put it back together. Here is a pic of the inner (left) and outer LF pad set (at 216,565 miles) with a new pad for comparison.
Total cost was about $350 for parts which included $90 for tools. That equals about $0.0016/mile or less than 2c/day over the total life of the truck. I can live with that.
Wasn't a bad job if you have a decent shop and the right tools. Wish I had a hoist though. I'm getting too old for this kneeling down to work crap. Even with a kneeling pad.
- Staff
- #27
Nice write up Mike! Glad it all worked out for you. :thumbsup:
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
Very nice, I just pulled my fronts and the front DS is oem and MIGHT make it through the summer, the front pass pads must have been replaced when the hub was replaced because they have 50% more material left. I will replace all of the fronts after this summer but for now I just lubed the crap out of them, showed signs of the inners wearing slightly quicker but not terrible. I will rotate the tires when I get the wheel bearings in (waiting on new bolts since 2 were cross threaded when removed) and will lube the rears just for giggles.
Lubing every tire rotation might be the way to do it...
Lubing every tire rotation might be the way to do it...