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'06 1500 5.3 auto prob long shift 1-2 maybe

S

schiker

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I have a friend that called me to ask advice. His truck has 140K miles. No check engine light. Said his truck would rev up and did not seem to want to shift gears (indicated low speed 1-2 shift). He can drive the truck and it doesnt seem to slip or have problems other than shifting right off the line. I said maybe a shift solenoid or other control problem I guess should n't be too bad.

He took it to a Trans shop that said tranny bad 2nd gear clutch bands needed rebuild ~$2000. Later that day Chk engine light comes on he takes it to Pep boys gets a code read: shift solenoid stuck on.

He has heard the shop is reputable but I wonder if it was a bad diagnostic mistake miscommunication. Would the truck drive ok and not slip and still need a rebuild? I am just thinking it should be a solenoid or valve body or similar part fixed in frame less than $500 ish.

What kind of explanation should he expect for need for rebuild? I would think they would have to say we dropped the pan shift solenoids checked out but we saw lots of friction material sediment and flakes in fluid or something. Or we checked some pressure ports and there is a bigger problem?????

What advice would you tell him to do? I don't know much about automatics to say other than I would want a better explaination?
 
I'd probably go to at least 2 more shops armed with the code info and ask them what they thought before I'd commit to anything.
 
I told him my initial fear was if not just a solenoid and was several parts and valve body controls replacement???? it might approach half cost of rebuild but not another life.

I dislike being pushed into a total rebuild with a white lie. Just tell it to me straight (a little salesmanship is ok but use straight talk). I don't mind a story like this .... its life is half over and if you are gonna patch it. I can't really guarantee it long term. The parts I am replacing don't do well mixing and matching with older parts. I would recommend rebuilding and here is why ....(with some valid reasons maybe a picture of the oil pan sediment or some pressure reading ????). That is what I would have expected to hear and since the story sounded weak I am all suspicious now. Wanted to see what others have heard.
 
If the band was going to slip, it would in 4th when it is really loaded, not in 2nd when it doesn't have much load on it. What is the code number? It isn't that hard to do the solenoids in a 4L60E, but it does require dropping the valve body to do all of them. And I would reccomend STRONGLY getting good BORG WARNER or OEM AC DELCO solenoids for it unless you want to redo it in 6 months.
 
Got me thinking on my dmax, throws similar codes, cant remember the #'s but it is in 4th gear when it happens and says solenoid stuck on. It happens under 3/4 throttle and heavy load (havent been goin over ~26K lately) in towing mode ~20hp nothing extreme.

Different animal but still has me thinking.
 
2002 trucks had a TSB on shifting where you cut and redid an alternator wire because it caused 'interference' and shifting problems. I recall it was the alt sense wire being cut and put to the output lug of the alternator. The code indicates a problem in the trans.
 
Sorry to not finish the story he's been busy and finally called me back. Well he decided to rebuild. Pretty much for the piece of mind and warranty. He bought the truck used and figures now he knows the transmission should last the rest of its life with him. He said the shop explained they somehow used a guage or probe of some kind to measure the clutch band (which ever it was) and it was worn and slipping???? He said he could have fixed it but by that far in it was just usual to rebuild the whole thing due to labor and warranty.

I am still skeptical as I never really heard it explained like that but don't know about automatics or diagnostics of internals. But its his call and dime and again going for rebuild for piece of mind. He has the money now and already has transportation figured etc.

Thanks for the input.
 
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