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-0.75 vs -1.94

matuva

matuva

Tropical 6.5er
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New Caledonia. An island in south west pacific, cl
I've been searching different threads. I'm almost sure we have already talked about that but couldn't find what I look for. Question is: is there a true advantage to reach this graal which is the -1.94 TDCO?

-0.25 to -0.75 is the stock values for timing an IP. -1.94 is said to make your 6.5l completely different...

Should it transform it to a camaro?

What are real advantages of this mythic -1.94? other than a clanky engine?
 
matuva said:
I've been searching different threads. I'm almost sure we have already talked about that but couldn't find what I look for. Question is: is there a true advantage to reach this graal which is the -1.94 TDCO?

-0.25 to -0.75 is the stock values for timing an IP. -1.94 is said to make your 6.5l completely different...

Should it transform it to a camaro?

What are real advantages of this mythic -1.94? other than a clanky engine?
Click to expand...

The tought is that you gain more fuel in the upper rpm range. I like 1.25 to 1.41 which is pretty nice. Just my thought on it.
 
Saw zero change when I went from -0.75 to -1.3 using it as my daily driver. I did ask the mechanic to take it to the -1.9-ish range but he backed it down to -1.3 as he did not like the sound at -1.9.
 
I had my 98 set at -1.94 and it ran strong. In the winter on those cold mornings it sounded like a big blender full of nuts and bolts. Painful to listen to until warmed up. I also had a gear drive cam, charged air cooler, FSD Cooler, and running 18 psi boost.

i-7sDHzKQ-L.jpg
 
Marauderer said:
I had my 98 set at -1.94 and it ran strong. In the winter on those cold mornings it sounded like a big blender full of nuts and bolts. Painful to listen to until warmed up. I also had a gear drive cam, charged air cooler, FSD Cooler, and running 18 psi boost.

i-7sDHzKQ-L.jpg
Click to expand...

Not pick fly $hit out of pepper but aint ALL 6.5's gear drive cams???
 
My 95's chain has enough slack that I cant hit the magic -1.94. I either get -1.7 or -2.02 (out of spec). I know I should fix that but after 100K miles of being set like that and 200K before that, I WONT COMPLAIN lol. Standing by the hood you can hear a noise similar to a worn out kids bicycle.
 
Tanner, i set mine at -2.02 for about a week and it wasn't worth it. When the guiys i was running with were really pushing the 6.5's we tried a lot of radical stuff.
 
I don't think it's bad at all. Yes it's louder than normal but my dmax makes some noise too. It's not as loud as a powerjoke atleast.

Source Unknown
 
Meh, the difference between -1.9 and the factory recommend settings only netted me 2.5 hp at the top end on the chassis dyno with a stock calibration.

But the engine was ratting the wrist pins and prechambers something fierce. Over advanced.

Went back to within Oem specs and did the fuel and timing through the calibration instead.

Also discovered someone had performed an "optic bump" some time in the trucks past as it was 5mm3 fuel rate at idle. Put that back to within factory specs at 8mm3.

Much happier engine and much more satisfying power returns....
 
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