I'm finding the front airbag sensors are very common to fail on our trucks causing the light. My truck, my dad's and my buddy's truck all had it happen. Haven't fixed mine yet.
BT- Found the Nicktane for a pretty good deal. I might have to pick one up as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Duramax-CAT-Filter-Adapter-CAT-filter-included-GENUINE-NICKTANE-/231183576823?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d39d6ef7&vxp=mtr
Just fixed my drivers side mount. Pop the hood and have someone watch the motor while you power-brake it... see if it lifts. If its bad you can drill a hole hole through the middle and bolt it like I did. There is a write-up on DuramaxDiesels...where I got the idea from. -...
Ah, she'll be okay. Probably gonna go with a PPE boot and there's a nice diy on duramaxdiesels how to fix the factory mounts. Basically drill a hole and put a bolt through the middle. Hopefully I can get it back together before the local truck pulls next Friday. :)
Figured it out, hole in my inter-cooler boot... probably caused by my broken motor mount. The motor lifts at least 6'' on the drivers side. That would probably also explain my shaky shifts. :rolleyes5:
Yeah its pretty hard to hear...you can notice a little when I let off at the end. I can probably pick it out better because I know the sound. Thanks for at least letting me know you couldn't hear it. :) I know the mechanic that works at the dealership near me...ill have to try to swing by his house.
It's been doing this for a while and I've checked intake connections and they all seem fine. I get a noise hard to describe. It goes whirrrrrrrrrr when I'm on the throttle about 1/2 and up. I made a video... a little hard to pick it out but you can hear it. It starts at about 8psi boost and...
No MAF on this truck.
Well I tapped on the IAC with a hammer and the rpms changed so I'm thinking it's bad. My buddy has a truck with the same motor so we are gonna try swapping parts till we figure it out.
Put in a new knock sensor and seems to run a little better but still idles high intermittently between 1200 and 2300 rpms. I went with a knock sensor for an automatic because it has to match up to the ecm. Chances are the 350 came out of a truck with an auto....just guessed though.
Timing was at 0*. Tested continuity of the knock sensor and got no reading so tomorrow I'm going to replace it.
Question though.... When I bought the new knock sensor they asked if it was for manual or auto transmission. I got the one for a manual and the price difference was $15 between the 2...
We unplugged the wire that tells the computer to advance the timing last night (Not sure of the correct name). I drove it again tonight...only a couple miles this time but it ran for probably a half hour. When I started it I had to rev it a little to keep it running for a minute otherwise it...
No cat on the truck.
Thought it was the fuel pump because before all of this the truck wouldn't start at all sometimes. I hit the fuel tank with a hammer and it started right up....so I replaced the pump....only $55. The old on has burn marks near the wiring but if I hook it up to a battery it...
The truck has new grounds to the block and frame as it had starting issues before. The pumps are the same as THEFERMANATOR said for the 4.3 and 5.7. The truck also has new distributor cap ,rotor, plugs, and wires. Last night the truck started right up....drove up and down the road a half mile 3...
1992 Chevy 1500 4x4, 5 speed manual with swapped in TBI 350. (used to have a 4.3 v6).
Been having problems with this truck I bought for a beater a couple months ago. The latest thing is it won't start. I just replaced the fuel pump and sending unit last night. Started right up today and drove...