When I gutted my fuel shutoff solenoid I mangled it a bit or bent it and it didn’t seem to sit right…that’s why I lost sleep and glad I took it back out..wasn’t seated all the way…I’ll try and find one tomorrow and post the size if I don’t find one I’ll try to bend it back into shape
The part is reassembled and works .. but when disassembling the retaining ring got slightly bent and I just worried about it…thought someone might know the size metric or inches and diameter?
Woke up in the middle of the night and tried searching for almost 2 hours and decided to ask: size of the internal retaining ring on fuel shutoff solenoid? I gutted mine and while removing it I must have bent it because upon reinstalling it…it doesn’t sit exactly right and rather than chance it...
Yes I noticed when I have the lift pump running.. I have a leak towards the back of the engine I’ll get under the truck in the morning…so I didn’t realize that would cause the air in the fuel line good to know and I’ll put cut off solenoid back together…thanks
Alright, so I gutted the shut off solenoid so I don’t have to crank the engine..turn the key on and jump the lift pump and leave it…okay I was worried about burning out the lift pump…by the way where does all that air come from?
Thanks for not giving up on all my questions gentlemen .. I almost gave up while jumping the LP and looking down in the IP seemed like no fuel was rising, kept saying last try and when I meant last try I looked over and the fuel was at the top..so I put the outlet valve back in and cranked it...
Sometimes I overthink but this question just popped in my mind…should I take the fuel lines off the injectors ( they are already loose) or will the bad fuel be directed out the outlet?
I’ll try both of these this morning..if I get a good stream in the bottle and then take off the outlet fitting should I be looking for any parts falling out or ejecting…yes the picture does show a foaming substance. Thanks again
Thank all of you for the feedback..if I get it to start I’ll be doing a lot of upgrades…rebooted the brain somewhat and thought start at square one..put a pressure gauge at the T and got about 6 pounds so I think I can eliminate the LP and OPS …cranked it a few more times and nothing at the...
I think I need to reboot my brain overnight…the coil spring in the picture below the solenoid..was under the solenoid in the IP …but tomorrow I was going to get a fuel pressure gauge to see if I am getting enough pressure to the IP …can I hook the gauge up to the T valve and get a reading?
Thank you so much jr I didn’t want to get deeper into more trouble…sorry to say I was feeling a little played…I often play the old age and hs dropout thing but in the past had fractured skull from motorcycle accident and a couple concussions so my comprehension takes a little time..but anyhow...
I’ve been reading a lot of threads on this and ran across one that mentioned if the truck wasn’t run in a while that the IP pump could be stuck and trying compressed air into the fuel outlet might free it up…would it be a good idea to shoot PB blaster in the outlet and let it sit?… or could I...
Okay, so sometimes I’m dense, do I unscrew it and leave it plugged in and try to start it…when I screw it in I think I will have to unplug it and if it keeps running is that like a runaway and I should take a pliers to the return line?
Update before the rain…so this morning I plugged in the LP went and added 8 gallons of fuel,loosened all injector fuel lines,bled my LP, removed my do solenoid and didn’t have help so I turned ignition on and flashed it by touching the negative cable to battery and it sucker the plunger in but...
Roger that…not to firmilar with probing electric but can pull the solenoid and eyewitness if it moves stupid question but I should make sure it’s connected to electric…I can reach all injectors and it’s good to know to move the injector lines…had them loose before but never checked if the fuel...