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curiosity has me wondering if a hard plastic would last longer as a bushing than the cheapo bronze pot metal ones! made from ABS or PETG on the 3d printer LOL.

That's odd. usually the upper bushings go first. wonder if it's just a matter of the cheap pot metal they make them out of nowadays cracking and breaking.

My guess would be body flex. if there is nothing while driving on a gravel road just being a little more rough then it's flex. could also be a worn body bushing too.

I doubt the on-star even works in this thing. they shut down all the 3G cell networks a couple years ago, not sure if 2006 used the 3G cell towers or if they had 4G connections. Plus if I want it working I have to pay another subscription I'd rather have someone with a programmer disable...

Spent yesterday evening with my wife's trailbalzer installing all the interior pieces we got from the pick a part yard. Had ordered a new replacement center console lid from flea-bay for $20, installed that along with all of the front AC dash vents and drivers door arm rest. the inside looks...

take a kook at the latch "fingers" and see if the black rubber / plastic is still intact or if there are wear marks where the head of the striker is wearing into the slide on the latch. the hinge pin bushing won't help much due to the slight cab tweaking. They help some when not worn but...

Just thinking about it, maybe taking the striker bolt and dipping it into some plasti-dip for a rubberized coating might work too!

I had found on both of my trucks the majority of the rattle comes from the striker and latch. the latch from factory had some plastic around the latching parts creating a "bumper" against the striker bolt but has worn off causing metal to metal contact. on fords they put that plastic on the...

I had a brain fart for my truck! Not wanting to go through pulling the front brush guard to get the grille off, I thought about what if I can just unbolt it from the bumper and leave the bolts on the frame so it might "hinge"forward just enough to pull the grille. That brush guard has been...

do you recall how many cans you used to charge it with? I normally end up with about 40 oz, almost 4 cans for 134a on my 95. One thing I do when thinking it's low is connect the gauges and look at the pressures before starting the truck. take note of what the pressure is and the outdoor...

Been driving the 95 for the last couple of days, noticed that the AC is working but not getting as cold as I would like nor is it cooling down as fast as my 93 even though it's running the same freon (R152a) and same orifice tube. I am leaning towards needing to replace the condenser since...

There is also a high pressure switch that is mounted on the compressor that receives power first. make sure that switch is there and the wires are intact. on mine, the PO had bypassed that switch and I had to hunt for the wires up in the harness!

is the little light coming on on the AC control panel. 95 is a bastard child for GM they are "experimenting" with changes in prepping for the newer obd2 series trucks. the AC control has an issue where one of the transistors will blow and cause the AC compressor not to work. there is a...

I always thought the wires going to each GP were standard wires with a high temp insulation and the fuse link was at teh GP controller where all 4 wires joined together into one about 6" from the GP controller. there are two of them with 4 wires each, one for each side of the engine.

I couldn't tell in your video, but if it's that what looks like a rusty sensor next to the GP. that is your coolant temp sensor for the gauge. is that still working?

If that's the #8 gp, it should be fairly easy to get at with the inner fender removed. just be careful removing the GP from the head if it's been in there any length of time. unthread and pull straight out, don't bend or twist if it gets into a bind. last thing you want is a broken gp tip...

tab broken off the glow plug ?

make easier work by drilling out the rivets. I don't think removing the inside panel will give you much access other than a small hole to reach your arm in there! while you have the bracket out, if you have any 1/4" nut-zerts left over, use them on the bracket before going back in. 9 times...

I used some 1/8" fuel line I found at home depot in the plumbing isle (of all places) its kinda yellowish orange clear line similar to weed eater fuel line. got it when I was in a pinch but so far it's holding up well. I need to look and see what it's made of. didn't use any clamps it...

made to put them large holes in the ear lobes... HAHA